My opinion is that without a numbers matching engine, it doesn't matter. It will be a clone type of car either way. Make it a GTX since you are modifying it. Cheap hotrod or a business hotrod.I have loved the 6 8-9 RR and Bees sine the 80s. But as they got higher weaned myself off them.
I admit they are BAD to rust, but usually because they sat outside for decades.
I have also loved the early B bodies. All cars rust, but these are way better in general.
IF a person can not do the boidy work to his standards, a guy might as well look for a done or at least body done, unless he has endless supply of $$ and patience????!!!
The question is with ay the 69RRis what is a REAL RR worth over a clone? #s match??? I have owned dozens upon dozens of RR and I bet only 3 or 4 out of 25-30 cars over the last few decades.
I disagree for what its worth. Like I said the number of REAL numbers matching Mopars is any muscle type car is SMALL> Plenty of #s slants and even 318s.My opinion is that without a numbers matching engine, it doesn't matter. It will be a clone type of car either way. Make it a GTX since you are modifying it. Cheap hotrod or a business hotrod.
Disagreements are always important.I disagree for what its worth. Like I said the number of REAL numbers matching Mopars is any muscle type car is SMALL> Plenty of #s slants and even 318s.
I say the #'s car are at the top, followed by the real car as to VIN and having a correct engine. Then comes the clone and the restorod. Heck take the 68 RR No vin on the eng, some did have a build sequence #on the back of the block.
If I'm not mistaken on 68's the SO# was on the fender tag and core support and the VIN was on the dash tag and the back of the engine block.I disagree for what its worth. Like I said the number of REAL numbers matching Mopars is any muscle type car is SMALL> Plenty of #s slants and even 318s.
I say the #'s car are at the top, followed by the real car as to VIN and having a correct engine. Then comes the clone and the restorod. Heck take the 68 RR No vin on the eng, some did have a build sequence #on the back of the block.
i admit I had a lot more 69s than 68s but I was thinking the So# was the back of the block. have forgot most of what I did know.If I'm not mistaken on 68's the SO# was on the fender tag and core support and the VIN was on the dash tag and the back of the engine block.
2016. I know times are different. So take that into consideration.What year did you buy it? I agree that is what a guy should be able to buy one for but how many like that can you find for that $$ ??