1970 Plymouth Satellite model RH41

[Rodney]

I couldn't pass this Satellite up when I saw it in Craig's list last week. I originally purchased the car for a parts donor for my '70 Road Runner but after getting it home the plan changed. After getting the car home I discovered the distributor weights were rusted and the engine needed a new set of plugs and some carburetor work. The engine runs strong the transmission shift good after some linkage adjustment, the brakes are good, I think I have a driver here!
I may as well start the restoration on this one by first taking care of a leaking back glass and windshield.


With the '66 Coronet on the back burner and getting ready to freshen up a Charger for a guy, I can't help myself and am sneaking the Satellite in for some quick repairs before the Charger.


The back glass was leaking so I started by removing the glass which was basically ready to fall out. I marked the location for the revel molding clips then using my grinder with a hard disc ground the rusted screw heads and clips off. Then gently ground the pinch weld and wire brushed the under side inside the trunk and prepped for repair. Using rust converter I treated the rust area, using my heat lamp sped up the dry time. After the converter was dry I built some patches by first laying down some plastic wrap then wax paper and laid fiber glass mesh on top of that after cutting to length to fit on the under side of the lower rear glass area which need the patch.


After mixing Dura Glass and spreading it on the prepped patch material I applied them to the area in need of some filling. I should add that this is a quick "temporary" repair and at the time all I have time to do. Of course to do it right all of the rust should be cut our and replaced with new. which would take a week and a ton more work to do.


The Dura Glass was sanded and the filler panel was finished with plastic. Loosening the deck lid bolts and sliding the lid back and installing a bolt on both sides held the lid in place and out of the way while I finished the repair.


Then I drilled the molding holes and primed and painted the pinch weld


The glass got a good cleaning using steel wool, TSP, windex and finally alcohol. I don't use a primer on the glass when using ribbon seal, I like to see the glass make the seal to the ribbon and haven't had a leak after doing this for 30+ years. The moldings will go back on after a water test and some paint.



The Trunk and a little repair on the lower 1/4's will be next.

 

[HawkRod]

Fantastic! Rather than tear down the car for parts you now have a great driver! Very cool!

Someday I wouldn't mind getting a cool old wagon as a parts getter/driver. First, I have to finish the two projects I've got though!

 

[kiwigtx]

Me likey that Plymouth :headbang: Well done on the remedial works on the window frame....now you have a cruiser. :icon_thumright:

 

[Rodney]

Trunk rust repair

thanks for the replies
I had a 70 Satellite wagon years ago but was real toasted so it was used as a donor for a GTX I built.
I have been hanging on to a few parts from the wagon including the doors and hinges. I can finally use some of the parts on the 4 door.
the trunk floor is another panel which should be replaced at some point but for now due to the cost of parts to do it I am going to do another temporary repair. wire brushed, vacuumed the crumbs and sprayed some rust converter over the area and let it dry.


drywall tape over the holes before dura glass


plugging the holes before I applied a layer of fiber glass mat and cloth keeps the resin from leaking out the bottom.
I picked up all of the fiber glass material last summer from a yard sale for $10.00 just had to buy hardener.
So far I've used 2 quarts of resin and about a yard of glass.


After a little sanding I will finish the floor, prime and paint then remove the fuel tank and under coat the under side.
A pretty economical repair to seal up the trunk for now and am into it about a 1/2 day so far. :icon_winkle:

 

[Rodney]

Trunk floor painted

finished trunk and rear window repair.
Primed, paint-able undercoating, sealed and a couple coats of Lime Green Poly.
Yes the paint is a little thin, I got stingy with it a mat will cover it.


Next the right 1/4 panel had a scrape, a little rust repair and some old plastic which needed removed and replaced. using a feather edged with 40 grit the panel was prepped for plastic after the panel was dinged out.
Dura Glass where needed, sanded and an application of plastic to the entire panel using a dry wall spreader to smooth out the plastic. I mix enough plastic to cover the entire panel with one application and spend time shaping and smoothing as much as possible, doing so makes sanding much easier saving time and materials.

 

[Basket case]

glad to see you save it. Be a nice driver, and help keep you motivated on the hot rods.

 

[Rodney]

1/4 panel shaping

your right it is motivation and I'll have a driver in a week or so, It will be fun to drive an old Mopar again.
My Concorde is getting a little worse for ware.

after sanding the panel with 40 grit on a file board I used my rigid fairing board to do the last of the shaping and to bring out any more low spots. These boards are 4 1/2 by 30 inches which is just about right for these 1/4's


2nd application of plastic over the entire panel


after roughing out with 40 grit I sprayed a guide coat on and sanded with 80 grit using my flexible fairing board.
then 150 all the time shaping the panel to.. well look like a 70 Satellite.
Spreading plastic over coarsely sanded plastic is setting up for pin holes which is a real PITA when they show up later on after primer.

 

[Rodney]

finished the body work and primed

The Satellite spent a lot of time delivering mail so the right side of the car was a little worse for ware. There was some old repair and lacquer paint to deal with as well. I could replace the doors since I have a pair but that was more work than I wanted to tackle at this point so I will save the originals this time around. Dura glass around the handles and areas that were prone to rust {holes in the doors} after I dinged out the metal where possible. Where there was plastic material I blended my repair material into the old once sanded back to good material. It is usually a good idea to go to bare metal but in this case I feathered the paint back and on the last coat of plastic blended over the paint instead of trying to feather back the paint. this saved me hours of work and will make a good repair this time around.


plastic finished with 180



a couple coats of 2K primer

 

[Rodney]

leveling the fill primer

after the primer dried over night I sprayed a guide coat on the panels and hand sanded the panels with 180 shaping following the body contours and using the appropriate sanding block or tube as needed.
Then I followed with a quick sanding with 400 dry to knock down the 180 tooth.
Checked edges, masking and sprayed about a pint of gray fill primer will let it dry sand again with 400 seal and base coat.
so far into the materials about 1/3 gal of plastic and a little less than a quart of primer and a couple days of elbow grease. keeping the build of material to a minimum makes for a nicer job. do the bodywork first and don't prime until ready or your just wasting time and materials = $$ for this guy I have a lot more time than $$

I have a ton of air tools to hawg off the plastic but have found I save a lot of time and mostly materials working with hand tools with the exception of my DA 6 inch sanders.



a tool I couldn't live without is my 1/2 inch body ream for cleaning and enlarging holes as I go, this saves a lot of time rather than trying to find the holes after primed or worse painted.

 

[PolaraLover64]

Sweet. Your'e going to have a really nice ride!

 

[Rodney]

Base coat sprayed

Thanks Polara...

After a couple coats of base coat lime green poly. This color is transparent so it will take several coats to cover and get the metallic to lay down.
I will spray a couple more coats of base and leave it at that for now and move on to the other side.
My plan is to get all of the body work done and base coated in my small garage at home, prep the rest of the car for paint then take it to the body shop I worked at for years. When I get it to the shop and in the spray booth I will nip off the base apply a couple more coats of base and clear coat. The base coat paint will stay open for several days and doesn't need sanded for the clear to adhere, it is important for no contaminates get on the base once it is sprayed. I like to level the paint {sand it } to remove any nibs, for this I use 600 - 800 wet/dry paper and a spray bottle with water. working one panel at a time starting on the roof and working down sanding and drying the panels with clean cloths as I go.

 

[Rodney]

Windshield gasket set and glass installed

Time to take a break from the paint work and get the windshield set in the car.
once the pinch weld was prepped, molding clips replaced where needed and since the upper dash bolts were accessible I put a wrench on them.
I cleaned the new gasket and "used glass", warmed the sealers to make them workable and applied a bead of urethane along the bottom of the body where the gasket sits. Then using bedding and glazing I put sealer in the pinch weld grove of the gasket and pushed the gasket on the body. I need to take extra care working the used glass when I lip it in using my windshield bones and windex for a lube. {If this were a new glass I would have used urethane all the way around the pinch weld and between the glass and rubber.} I plan on replacing the glass with new at some time in the future so I didn't glue it in. Taking my time going around the glass gently pushing the seal past the edge of the glass this took a couple times around to get the glass seated in the seal.
The windshield gasket was the same as for my 66 Dodge 2 door sedan a WCRD 672

 

[Rodney]

compression and leak down test good

after I ran a leak down and compression to find the engine healthy I replaced the timing chain on the 318 after discovering a lot of lag in the chain. I drove the car before taking it apart to find the engine had plenty of power {for a 318} no smoke and was told it was rebuilt in the past so I will leave it along. Replacing the timing chain will give me piece of mind knowing it is new.


with the radiator out it was a good time to remove the horns the previous owner had installed on the Satellite.
A little to much horn for me.



Now time to prep the engine compartment for a couple coats of lime green poly and clear coat. By loosening the front bumper bolts removing the rear ones and the lower fender support braces you can pivot the bumper down enough to remove the bumper filler. It has been a pleasure taking this auto apart, most pieces have never been touched since assembled in 1970.

 

[Rodney]

engine compartment preped and painted

I cleaned the compartment and sanded with scotch bright and comet, sealed and painted with base coat and a couple coats of clear. I left all of the runs, drips, sags and blobs of seam in the original paint sealer just like it was when painted back in the day. The car is now in the paint booth ready for the body to be painted. thanks for taking a look.

 

[HawkRod]

Rodney,

I am truly jealous of your parts runner 4 door! You are doing a great job getting the car back into shape and making it a nice driver. It should be a very unique, yet reliable car to drive around!

This thread and a couple of others is making me seriously think about a 4 door or station wagon parts runner in the future - but first I have to complete the projects I have!

Hawk

 

[Rodney]

Painted the body.

Thanks Hawk for the reply.
painted!
came out better than I expected, haven't sprayed a complete in several years.



I started with a gallon and a quart of pant and a gallon of clear
I had to borrow a quart of clear from the shop to finish the job and have a pint of paint left over for touch up.
These big cars really soak up the materials.

 

[HawkRod]

Sweet!

 

[snakeyes]

LOOKING GOOD :headbang:

 

[Rodney]

paint work done

Thanks
leaving the paint shop between rain storms.
time to put her back together

 

[barnfind]

Looks great! I bet that car will be alot of fun