1970 Rally gauge problem

[badbird]

If you un hook the battery do they move back up to the normal starting spot ??
Any chance you have the plus and minus backwards on the cluster ?

Took the fuel and oil out and and played around with the needles and got them working, don't what was wrong but they are working ok now

Thanks for the replies!

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Maybe arriving a bit late but just in case for future references… and also explaining why suddendly they could be fine now.

DUNNO IF I CAN EXPLAIN IT BETTER, as you know, english is no my mother language.

Needles are kinda a floating pointer hold by the two internal spring loaded ”tabs/hooks” of the gauge system itself. When playing around (like this case, installing refacing decals) , needle could get out of its seating place until the natural move of the heating element forces to sit it back to its place.

this tabs/holders are also attached to a calibration system moving plate which is visible and “reachable” from its back for calibration.

It is in fact an orginal 1970 GTX gauge cluster, gauges are as well 1970 GTX, which I appied the white overlay because THATS WHAT I LIKE!!! just my opinion of course
Darrell

touche!!!

 

[Nacho-RT74]

The gauges mechanism design is not exclusive to Mopars… but here you can see how the needle seats on the terminal spring loaded tabs (this is not a Mopar gauge, but similar on how it works)

on this pic you can see how this needle is in fact out of its seating place, at the end of the bent tab.

thats what could happen on your gauge when handling around when refacing

on Mopar gauges (dunno if some other are similar), the calibration system is a teethed “halfmoon” gear visible from the back throught accesing holes to adjust the spring load tension. But is these are hard (to not say imposible) to move accidentaly

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Most likely damaged gauges from a voltage limiter that was over powering them. The voltmeter still should work as it is not run by the limiter.

Actually a burnt gauge by a damaged limiter won’t move the needle of its place, just burnts the internal wire or coil of the heating element. But the floating needle will stay in place as far the spring loaded system remains untouchable. These are not straight related in any form to the mechanical system indexing, aside just heat it to contract/elongate the spring loaded heating element.

now, Does a violent movement of the needle caused by a 12-14 volts input can cause the needle will move from its seating position into the tabs?… mmmm IMHO I think the wire will burn faster than a move able to get the needle out of its place…

 

[pnora]

Actually a burnt gauge by a damaged limiter won’t move the needle of its place, just burnts the internal wire or coil of the heating element. But the floating needle will stay in place as far the spring loaded system remains untouchable. These are not straight related in any form to the mechanical system indexing, aside just heat it to contract/elongate the spring loaded heating element.

now, Does a violent movement of the needle caused by a 12-14 volts input can cause the needle will move from its seating position into the tabs?… mmmm IMHO I think the wire will burn faster than a move able to get the needle out of its place…

I have seen the limiter run the gauges full sweep and actually bend the needles. Then when the limiter is correct the damages gauge will read way low and with no power sit way to the left. Thats if the limiter did not completely ruin the gauge.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

I can’t imagine that happening. Needles (these at least) are floating so they are not firm enough to get pushed enough and bent by the tabs movement which holds it. Aside there is nothing I can think to hit against and get bent.

Just thinking on that. Maybe I’m wrong, but…

 

[Derwud]

This is what I'm working on. 5.7 Hemi, 4 speed,RR dash,conul and buckets,

View attachment 1538858

Hope to Join you on the Gen III Hemi group soon.