1971 Charger 383 ignition issue power to coil constant or not?

[Rikker]

I checked past posts that come close to my problem, but still haven't found what I need? I put in a MSD ready to run. I removed the ballast resistor, the orange box and wired as the instructions show. The engine won't stay running after I let go of the key! After starting the engine if I hold the key slightly forward just before the starter kicks in it will stay running. I tested and I am not getting power to the coil with the ignition in the ON position, but I Do get power to the coil when the ignition is turned to start/run. I did a jumper from the battery to the positive side of the coil. I turned the ignition to start and it started and ran great.(Of course won't turn off until I remove the jumper from the battery)
Here are my questions?
1.) With the key in the ON position is there supposed to be power to the coil? (which is not currently happening)
2.) Could it be the ignition in the column? it worked fine before?
3. Is there a safe bypass or quick fix.
4.) What else could it be?
Thank you for any assistance in this area!

 

[Jerry Hall]

I'm for the ignition switch. That's what it was on a 67 Coronet R/T recently.

 

[Rikker]

I'm for the ignition switch. That's what it was on a 67 Coronet R/T recently.

Thanks you. So there is supposed to be power to the coil when the ignition is just in the ON position?

 

[Jerry Hall]

If there is no voltage to the coil in the on position it will quit just like your problem. If your wiring through the bulkhead connector is good and a few other things. You just have to check all things that were changed.

 

[steve340]

On a mopar the coil is feed from two places. One feed while cranking the other for running.
I believe you have missed one.

 

[Lefty71]

I'm for the ignition switch. That's what it was on a 67 Coronet R/T recently.

Im hoping someone who has run across this issue will chime in. If his ignition switch is bad, how was it running before?? You think through the ballast resistor?? Do they have power key on and crank both? I thought that was only cranking, or it would burn them up constantly, right? Just thinking out loud, and haven't had to mess in a while, Lefty71

 

[Lefty71]

Isnt the wire that goes to the alternator, voltage regulator, and used to go to the ballast resistor and also used to go to the Mopar ignition box switched from the ignition switch??? If so, that's the one you are looking for to resolve this issue...

I "think" we are talking about the blue wire if you had this harness in place before you started.. https://www.ebay.com/i/264018153687?chn=ps

HTH, Lefty71

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

You will need to connect the brown and blue wires at the ballast together to feed the MSD unit on an MSD install. As mentioned, the blue, or blue with white tracer, is powered with ignition on only and not while cranking. The brown wire (ballast by-pass) is powered while cranking only.

Which MSD system are you working with?

 

[Rikker]

You will need to connect the brown and blue wires at the ballast together to feed the MSD unit on an MSD install. As mentioned, the blue, or blue with white tracer, is powered with ignition on only and not while cranking. The brown wire (ballast by-pass) is powered while cranking only.

Which MSD system are you working with?

I am working with MSD pn#8386. I removed the original ballast per MSD instructions. All I have now is the voltage regulator with the blue wire and a green wire. The blue then goes to the alternator middle post and the green goes to the top post. - DO I put the brown with the blue prior to regulator or tap in afterwards or does it matter? Thank you

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Doesn’t really matter where, just need both switched circuits powering the coil/MSD.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

You will need to connect the brown and blue wires at the ballast together to feed the MSD unit on an MSD install.

just on RTR dist systems. Aftermarket Ignition boxes such as MSD can work with same existant coil + lead still with ballast in place ;) since this signal is a remote on trigger. No load there

 

[Nacho-RT74]

aaand... MSD ( and similar ) systems doesn't feed constantly the coil because they feed both leads at the same time on every spark trigger signal. So you won't ( or shouldn't ) find any voltage at coil leads being sourced by a Multispark system. Since is not constant, there is no need for the ballast to keep cool down the coil like the stock ignition system is being constantly sourced.

Built in module on Dist needs the full 12 volts thought on both ign switch position, Run and Start. Ballast can be removed and wires spliced OR add a jumper on ballast ( modifying ballast on back or adding externally in front )

 

[Jcharger]

Did you get this sorted? I have had an ignition switch problem, but it turned out to be one of the connections that made the circuit live. Use a multimeter to test that you get a voltage to both wires from the key that go to the ballast resistor. One is in the cranking position, and the other is in the run position. Both of these wires go all the way to the key switch and any connection along the way (firewall or plugs) can interrupt it. You can also check for continuity in the different positions to confirm the switch was doing what it was supposed to do at the various connections by tracing the wires. I apologize, I do not have the wiring diagram with me to give more specific information. You just connected all three wires on the ballast resistor together, right?

 

[Rikker]

Doesn’t really mater where, just need both switched circuits powering the coil/MSD.

72RoadrunnerGTX-
Did what you said and it works like a dream. Runs and starts perfect!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you!!!!

 

[Rikker]

Did you get this sorted? I have had an ignition switch problem, but it turned out to be one of the connections that made the circuit live. Use a multimeter to test that you get a voltage to both wires from the key that go to the ballast resistor. One is in the cranking position, and the other is in the run position. Both of these wires go all the way to the key switch and any connection along the way (firewall or plugs) can interrupt it. You can also check for continuity in the different positions to confirm the switch was doing what it was supposed to do at the various connections by tracing the wires. I apologize, I do not have the wiring diagram with me to give more specific information. You just connected all three wires on the ballast resistor together, right?

Yes- got it sorted. Took 72RoadrunnerGTX advice and it runs/starts great.
Thank you.

 

[Rikker]

aaand... MSD ( and similar ) systems doesn't feed constantly the coil because they feed both leads at the same time on every spark trigger signal. So you won't ( or shouldn't ) find any voltage at coil leads being sourced by a Multispark system. Since is not constant, there is no need for the ballast to keep cool down the coil like the stock ignition system is being constantly sourced.

Built in module on Dist needs the full 12 volts thought on both ign switch position, Run and Start. Ballast can be removed and wires spliced OR add a jumper on ballast ( modifying ballast on back or adding externally in front )

Thank you it ended up being just what 72RoadrunnerGTX said. Runs/starts great now.
Thank you

 

[Rikker]

If there is no voltage to the coil in the on position it will quit just like your problem. If your wiring through the bulkhead connector is good and a few other things. You just have to check all things that were changed.

Thank you for all the advice.

 

[Rikker]

Isnt the wire that goes to the alternator, voltage regulator, and used to go to the ballast resistor and also used to go to the Mopar ignition box switched from the ignition switch??? If so, that's the one you are looking for to resolve this issue...

I "think" we are talking about the blue wire if you had this harness in place before you started.. https://www.ebay.com/i/264018153687?chn=ps

HTH, Lefty71

Thank you you all for the great advice. Running well now.

 

[383man]

Thank you it ended up being just what 72RoadrunnerGTX said. Runs/starts great now.
Thank you

Glad you got it. On MSD both coil primary wires go to the MSD box and the ign feed to the MSD box needs both the ign switch run and start circuits to it like 72Roadrunner/GTX said. Ron