I've fixed all of the lights on this car with the exception of the running lights. The flashers, turn signal and brake lights all work, but when I turn on the headlights, the running lights in the front and rear don't work at all. Does anyone know where the most likely place is to check to repair this issue?
1971 Plymouth Roadrunner running lights not working?
- Thread starter AtomicDog
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Possibly the headlight switch - I am sure there is a separate terminal output for the side lights (Park lights)
The wire may have slipped off the terminal.
The wire may have slipped off the terminal.
When I say running lights, I'm referring to the rear tail lights and the front amber turn signal lights coming on when the headlights are on. The side marker lights were blocked off at the fenders on this car - someone welded plates where the side marker lights go on the fenders. Any other thoughts other than the headlight switch?
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Do you have dash illumination? Power at the cigar lighter? These items and the park, or running lights, share a fuse in the fuse panel. Labeled “Misc”, verify power is present on both sides of the fuse. Then verify the doubled-up cigar lighter connector is intact. The molded three-way “Battery Feed” accessory tap is on the same circuit.
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I do not have dash illumination and the cigarette lighter is not installed. What does the doubled-up cigarette lighter connector look like and what colored wires connect to it? I will check power at both sides of the cigar fuse and report back.
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Right angle female bullet connector. If its been cut off and the pink and red wires have not been re-connected, you will loose voltage to B2 at the headlight switch.
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I connected the battery, turned on the headlights and checked each fuse with a test light. The only fuse that didn't have power at each end was the fuse circled. In addition, the cigarette lighter was indeed in the car. I removed the three screws that held it in-place and found the double-wire connector attached to the back of the cigarette lighter. I removed the connector and checked it with the test light and no voltage was detected there either.
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The fuse in question is labeled “Misc”, lower left, near where that red wire has been added on yours. Double check that one for un-switched power at both ends. The cigar lighter gets it’s from the outboard side of that fuse. Unclip the fuse box from the bulkhead connector to examine the backside of it at that fuse. Red 16ga wire runs to the cigar lighter. If you have power at the fuse outboard clip but not at the cigar lighter, you have an open somewhere between them.
The illumination fuse gets its power after the headlight switch, need to get the B2 switch feed working before you will see any voltage there, it will vary depending on the rheostat.
The illumination fuse gets its power after the headlight switch, need to get the B2 switch feed working before you will see any voltage there, it will vary depending on the rheostat.
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OK. I checked the misc fuse and the side circled with 'red' is getting 12 volts. The side circled in yellow has nothing. I checked the fuse and it seemed to be shorted out. I replaced it and the new fuse blew. Which wires should I be chasing on that side of the circuit?
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You have a short on that circuit if a new fuse blew right away. Did the new fuse blow as it was inserted, or when you tried to turn on the headlights? If it blew just after inserting it with the light switch off, short is between the fuse box and the headlight switch. If it blows when the switch is turned on, short is downstream of the switch. Need to disconnect some loads, one at a time, to isolate where its shorted. Either keep putting new fuses in or connect an ohm meter to outboard fuse holder and ground, watch for the short to go away as you disconnect things in that circuit. Unplug the forward lighting harness, then rear body harnesses, see if the short continues.
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Thanks for the ideas. I can't recall exactly when the fuse blew. I may start by replacing the headlight switch, as it appears to be original and you can hear the reostat make a crunching sound when turning the knob of the headlight switch, in addition to seeing the white circular part of the switch move in and out while observing it from below in the dash.
The resistor wire has likely broken and is contacting the switch body - which should be grounded.
If that turns out to be OK....if the interior roof light is not working, check the door switches also....those terminals are prone to rusting and falling off.
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