• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

1971 road runner Carburetor & Distributor Woes - Please Advise!

road robert

Well-Known Member
Local time
10:06 PM
Joined
Mar 29, 2020
Messages
76
Reaction score
59
Location
Holden, MA
Hello Mopar Tribe:

I just reached out to Dan Woodruff, a sponsor of our club for some carburetor advice. My big question to you is that it is better to rebuild or replace? My car is #s matching engine/trans but not the carb and no idea about distributor. I have no repair or rebuild history. Here is what's good and what's not:

Good:
*On cold startup, pump the accelerator, choke closes then depending on when it was last started (mechanical fuel pump) it fires right up or cranks until gets fuel then fires up and high idles fine.
*Wait a bit and without "kicking down" the pedal it will idle down by itself perfectly.
*Car runs and drives well, NEVER stalls.

Bad:
*I'm not sure if I have the correct carburetor for this car (see pics) - what carburetor did a 1971 road runner 383 no A/C 4 speed w/manual steering come with?
*When warm when coming to a stop idle is very high, then slowly trickles down to normal.
*There is a flat spot when cruising at low RPMs.
*My friends behind me say the car really smells rich, although it does not smoke (their eyes are watering)!.

Conclusion:
I spoke to Dan Woodruff this week and he suggested I send my carb in for test and rebuild and distributor to check the timing curve, does this make sense vs. buying new carb & distributor?

Please Advise...

road robert

'71 road runner fender tag.jpg


'71 road runner carburetor1.jpg


'71 road runner carburetor3.jpg


'71 road runner carburetor2.jpg
 
AVS should be correct. There was 383s with Holley's in 71, can't remember the circumstances. Look down into carburetor when it is idling and see if it is dribbling fuel in on the primaries, an indication the floats are set wrong or heavy causing high fuel level. Also check vacuum advance operation
 
What is that number on the third photo at the base mounting bolt?
 
Looks like 4966 S

Would technically be wrong for your car from the factory

That’s 1971 NON HP 440

Anyways , should still work fine as it’s a 630 cfm carb

A lot of 383s HP Motors back in 1971 got switched over to Carter AVS 6125 S out of the factory
Dealer installed - That’s another subject with the factory Holleys getting removed

Can I see your factory Distributor ? Want to know if your still running the factory points distributor with electronic retard vacuum advance

Thanx Scott
 
On the back of the carb you can see a sticker for a replacement rebuild from a jobber around 1999
 
A31 - High Performance Axle 3:91 Sure Grip

AWESOME !!!
 
Scot: still running factory points

Here are some more carb & distributor pics - both out of car on bench. MY question to the Gurus is is better to rebuild or replace with what I should have - OR is what I got that works fine worthy of a rebuild?
2. Looking down the distributor hole do I have a "purple" cam?


Thanks again everyone!

rr purple cam.jpg


71 rr carb number.jpg


Distributor.jpg


Distributor2.jpg
 
Hello Mopar Tribe:

I just reached out to Dan Woodruff, a sponsor of our club for some carburetor advice. My big question to you is that it is better to rebuild or replace? My car is #s matching engine/trans but not the carb and no idea about distributor. I have no repair or rebuild history. Here is what's good and what's not:

Good:
*On cold startup, pump the accelerator, choke closes then depending on when it was last started (mechanical fuel pump) it fires right up or cranks until gets fuel then fires up and high idles fine.
*Wait a bit and without "kicking down" the pedal it will idle down by itself perfectly.
*Car runs and drives well, NEVER stalls.

Bad:
*I'm not sure if I have the correct carburetor for this car (see pics) - what carburetor did a 1971 road runner 383 no A/C 4 speed w/manual steering come with?
*When warm when coming to a stop idle is very high, then slowly trickles down to normal.
*There is a flat spot when cruising at low RPMs.
*My friends behind me say the car really smells rich, although it does not smoke (their eyes are watering)!.

Conclusion:
I spoke to Dan Woodruff this week and he suggested I send my carb in for test and rebuild and distributor to check the timing curve, does this make sense vs. buying new carb & distributor?

Please Advise...

road robert

View attachment 1405682

View attachment 1405683

View attachment 1405684

View attachment 1405688
I believe the NOS carb was Carter AVS # 6125-S. SOME 383s used Holley R4668 750 CFM with A/C and auto trans. Both. Carter and Holley had a hot idle solenoid (Holley carb had this on the throttle linkage side) on the choke side of the carb, energized when ignition was on/engine running. The distributor was # 3438694 and was equipped with the solenoid RETARD device as part of the vacuum advance mechanism. It retarded the spark on HOT IDLE only. All for reduced emissions.....
BOB RENTON
 
I would have the carb rebuilt. The AVS is an exc carb, which is why Edel copied it! Varying idle speed can be caused by worn throttle shaft & a proper rebuild would include checking the shaft for wear & bushing if needed.
Flat spot could be worn out acc pump plunger.
The 6125 carb listed for that car uses a met rod that has a 0.003" richer power step than the 4966 carb. The 6125 also uses a smaller sec jet [ 089 v 095 ].

If the purple paint on the cam indicates a Mopar Perf purple cam, then the factory carb calibration will likely not be correct, but should be used as a starting point.
 
.. what carburetor did a 1971 road runner 383 no A/C 4 speed w/manual steering come with?
‘71 383 HP 4-speed, heated air(not seeing N96 on the tag), would have left the factory with a Holley 4160 List number R-6191A. Holley R-4668A is the list number for heated air/auto trans.
 
Here is some 71 383 carb info..

1971

383 manual - E & B-body
orange HP engine
---------- Holley R4667A ---------- part number 3512 848 on b'cast 48
383 manual - E & B-body - with "fresh air" (N96).
orange HP engine
---------- Holley R4734A ---------- part number 3512 849 on b'cast 49

* some sources show the following manual trans carbs w/same part numbers

* 383 manual - E & B-body
* orange HP engine
* ---------- Holley R6191A ---------- part number 3512 848 on b'cast 48
* 383 manual - E & B-body - with "fresh air" (N96).
* orange HP engine
* ---------- Holley R6193A ---------- part number 3512 849 on b'cast 49

383 automatic - C-body
blue engine
---------- Carter 6125S ---------- part number 3512 844 on b'cast 44

383 automatic - E & B-body
orange HP engine
---------- Holley R4668A ---------- part number 3512 830 on b'cast 30
383 automatic - E & B-body - with "fresh air" (N96).
orange HP engine
---------- Holley R4735A ---------- part number 3512 842 on b'cast 42
 
Hello Mopar Tribe:

I just reached out to Dan Woodruff, a sponsor of our club for some carburetor advice. My big question to you is that it is better to rebuild or replace? My car is #s matching engine/trans but not the carb and no idea about distributor. I have no repair or rebuild history. Here is what's good and what's not:

Good:
*On cold startup, pump the accelerator, choke closes then depending on when it was last started (mechanical fuel pump) it fires right up or cranks until gets fuel then fires up and high idles fine.
*Wait a bit and without "kicking down" the pedal it will idle down by itself perfectly.
*Car runs and drives well, NEVER stalls.

Bad:
*I'm not sure if I have the correct carburetor for this car (see pics) - what carburetor did a 1971 road runner 383 no A/C 4 speed w/manual steering come with?
*When warm when coming to a stop idle is very high, then slowly trickles down to normal.
*There is a flat spot when cruising at low RPMs.
*My friends behind me say the car really smells rich, although it does not smoke (their eyes are watering)!.

Conclusion:
I spoke to Dan Woodruff this week and he suggested I send my carb in for test and rebuild and distributor to check the timing curve, does this make sense vs. buying new carb & distributor?

Please Advise...

road robert

View attachment 1405682

View attachment 1405683

View attachment 1405684

View attachment 1405688
 
Should have holley. 6193 I believe. Distributor should have a solenoid with retard and the carb has an idle soleniod. Look at the 71 factory manuel.
 
No i believe the R4735A Holley is the factory carb for N96 (Air Grabber)cars. They are hard to find and expensive since there was an issue with them, and they got replaced at the dealerships alot. I learned this as I looked a while for one for my 71 roadrunner and could not find a good one.... and some I found were missing parts and were damaged and were still going for 200-300 bucks and up!!
 
The OP specified a manual transmission, had it been coded for N96, R-6193A would be the correct original list number. List number R-4735A is N96 automatic transmission only.
71 list numbers.jpg
 
No i believe the R4735A Holley is the factory carb for N96 (Air Grabber)cars. They are hard to find and expensive since there was an issue with them, and they got replaced at the dealerships alot. I learned this as I looked a while for one for my 71 roadrunner and could not find a good one.... and some I found were missing parts and were damaged and were still going for 200-300 bucks and up!!
Very hard to find and not cheap. I bought the only one I ever saw for sale..You are also competing with shaker hood e-bodies…
1676667959074.jpeg
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top