1973 Charger Question

[CoronetRTguy]

Okay so in my journey to get back in the land of MOPAR I have found a 1973 Charger that I may be able to trade my Vette for. I know the Charger will need some panels maybe just lower 1/4s.

The Charger was an original red car, 400 motor, 727 trans and I do believe bucket seats with console and air. The guy does have the console for the car and a replacement dash from were someone cut it to install an aftermarket radio. The guy also said the fenders may need to be replaced but again I wont be sure untill I see the car. The car also comes with the build sheet as well.

Who makes quarters, wheel housing and other panels that are good and fit like they should?

I think I may need to find a trunk lid but not 100% sure on that until I see it. I do know of a 74 Charger SE that I can try and get a few parts off of, but the trunk lid is toast on the parts car from what I remember. I shouldnt say toast it could be fixed but may cost as much to fix as just finding a good used one.

How common was it for a 400 to be in a Charger and it not be an SE or a Ralley car?

I will know more once I get to see the car on Tuesday if it all works out, if not it will be next week. I will see if I can get the fender tag info on it as well if I dont get to see the car this week.

Thanks everyone.

 

[loneagle]

Pm sent

 

[CoronetRTguy]

Pm sent

Thanks got it and sent a pm back.

So is it rare to have a 400 bucket seat 73 Charger that is not a ralley and not an SE?

 

[YY1]

M code 400 2 barrel cars were fairly common IIRC.

Good deck lid is almost impossible to find.

Good fenders are almost as hard.

Tabco makes lower quarters and are supposed to be the best available.
I have a goodmark/sherman panel and it's thinner metal than factory.

Be careful of the cowl area especially the vent tower.
An E body part is available, but it's $400 and the labor is excruciating.

 

[CoronetRTguy]

M code 400 2 barrel cars were fairly common IIRC.

Good deck lid is almost impossible to find.

Good fenders are almost as hard.

Tabco makes lower quarters and are supposed to be the best available.
I have a goodmark/sherman panel and it's thinner metal than factory.

Be careful of the cowl area especially the vent tower.
An E body part is available, but it's $400 and the labor is excruciating.

Thanks YY1 I will look it over very carefully when I get to see it. I have used sherman panels in the past on a 70 Torino Cobra SCJ 429 4spd car and I had to re-work the panels a lot to get them to fit right.

I don't know if these fenders can be fixed or are to far gone, the car is on the road I do know that.

I think the 74 Charger parts car I can take a look at and use stuff from may have ok fenders on it or fixable ones.

I will check out Tabco and see what I can find.

 

[YY1]

Also look at the seam in the door jam hinge area where the cowl joins the jamb.
That's another common area. Again part is available but labor.....

...and another area is the frame rail where the isolated K-frame mounts.
For some reason, it's usually the driver's side and the rear mount area.
I looked at a 74 Aztec car last weekend that had a block of wood wedged in where it was rusted out!

Fenders usually go in the "dog leg", and on the top where the inner fender ends.
Also, check the inner fender up in the wheel well. One of mine is really nasty there.

I've been re-evaluating my 74, and I don't think it's worth saving.

I went to look at a 72 SE 400 4 barrel car today. It's rough, but it's better than either one of mine and between the three of them...I'd have one good 72 with a bunch of cool added "factory" options.

72 has a good frame, both sway bars, hidden headlights, rallye dash and a/c.
Cowl vent area is good, usual spots on front are OK, pass side hinge area is good, drivers side is not.
Roof is rusted under vinyl- worst part of car, and it will need at least one full quater and very likely a partial if not just a patch. Hood is toast, but I have several
Pass fender is shot, drivers is a c-. Front floors need patched.
I do have a good "sunroof roof" on my 74, and my 73 came with new floor patches.

My head hurts now...good luck.

...oh yeah....check the windshield channel and all around the windshield.

 

[CoronetRTguy]

Also look at the seam in the door jam hinge area where the cowl joins the jamb.
That's another common area. Again part is available but labor.....

...and another area is the frame rail where the isolated K-frame mounts.
For some reason, it's usually the driver's side and the rear mount area.
I looked at a 74 Aztec car last weekend that had a block of wood wedged in where it was rusted out!

Fenders usually go in the "dog leg", and on the top where the inner fender ends.
Also, check the inner fender up in the wheel well. One of mine is really nasty there.

I've been re-evaluating my 74, and I don't think it's worth saving.

I went to look at a 72 SE 400 4 barrel car today. It's rough, but it's better than either one of mine and between the three of them...I'd have one good 72 with a bunch of cool added "factory" options.

72 has a good frame, both sway bars, hidden headlights, rallye dash and a/c.
Cowl vent area is good, usual spots on front are OK, pass side hinge area is good, drivers side is not.
Roof is rusted under vinyl- worst part of car, and it will need at least one full quater and very likely a partial if not just a patch. Hood is toast, but I have several
Pass fender is shot, drivers is a c-. Front floors need patched.
I do have a good "sunroof roof" on my 74, and my 73 came with new floor patches.

My head hurts now...good luck.

...oh yeah....check the windshield channel and all around the windshield.

Thanks I will check it out and see what I come up with. I think I decoded the fender tag right and it was not a bucket seat car it was a bench seat.

I know where there is a buddy bench seat. I will be looking this car over really good.

 

[fla 66 cuda]

YY1 is the man with the answers [on chargers] i have been working on a 73 for over a year [he helped me out with answers],we finally finished sheet metal in may. I can't help you with whom to buy patches from i fabricated all mine. Check out my album if you like.
http://s1138.photobucket.com/albums/n522/lou3500/charger project/

 

[CoronetRTguy]

YY1 is the man with the answers [on chargers] i have been working on a 73 for over a year [he helped me out with answers],we finally finished sheet metal in may. I can't help you with whom to buy patches from i fabricated all mine. Check out my album if you like.

Thanks and yeah he does seem to know a lot about them. I didn't know all the troubled areas of these years.

I will get to see the car tomorrow and look it over good. I will also know if I want to trade my 96 Vette for it and I will also know if a guy who looked at my Vette tonight wants to buy it straight out.

I would much wrather take the cash and save a little and get something, but if no one wants the Vette I will trade for the Charger and enjoy the car as it is a driver right now.

I'm also looking at a 73 Road Runner I have had my eyes on for a long long long time. I got a price on it and if it is the car I think it is I lost track of it years ago and it wasnt for sale until now.

The sign on the window read "Car no for sale all people who can't read the sign will be shot on the spot. Do not ring door bell" and being me and who I am I rang the bell lol. The guy had bought it new and didn't want to sell.

The second or so owner of it has it listed now for sale in my area and we are working on a deal for my AR15 rifle and maybe something else, if I sell the Vette I will buy straigt out and save up and fix it.

Also I'm still looking at a 66 and 67 Charger in my area one is a nice driver and the other is a fixer upper but its a 67 440 charger.

I'm in no rush on what ever I do and if the Vette doesnt sell or trade well I might just part it out and do a hot rod with the motor. I may look for an old truck body to do a rat rod type of deal but with a new motor.

Keep the info coming as I'm learning a lot about these years.

 

[YY1]

PM me about the Corvette.

If I can't find a decent driver Mopar with good quarters within my budget, I may be FORCED to buy a late C4 corvette!

I'm really looking for something with a back seat, maybe even a wagon, or a fold down rear like a late Duster or early Barracuda- and something that might get decent mileage.

For the prices I've seen within a 175 mile radius, on 60s and 70's Mopars, I can buy a fairly nice late 80's - early 90's Vette.
Would get good mileage and would be fun to drive, but would not allow rear seat passengers or cargo. Would also NOT be "simple" to work on, but WOULD be easy (albeit expensive) to find parts for.

 

[CoronetRTguy]

PM me about the Corvette.

If I can't find a decent driver Mopar with good quarters within my budget, I may be FORCED to buy a late C4 corvette!

I'm really looking for something with a back seat, maybe even a wagon, or a fold down rear like a late Duster or early Barracuda- and something that might get decent mileage.

For the prices I've seen within a 175 mile radius, on 60s and 70's Mopars, I can buy a fairly nice late 80's - early 90's Vette.
Would get good mileage and would be fun to drive, but would not allow rear seat passengers or cargo. Would also NOT be "simple" to work on, but WOULD be easy (albeit expensive) to find parts for.

I was the same way as you are and sold the only MOPAR car I had due to being so ticked off I couldnt do all the work like I used to so I sold it to buy a Vette.

The good thing about the Vette is all the parts or I should say just about all of them are reproduced and easy to find.

I will send a pm with pics and video. The car does need paint, it is an LT4 and that means 330HP that is 30 more HP over the LT-1 and the LT-4 is a six speed.

 

[Randy73]

PM me about the Corvette.

If I can't find a decent driver Mopar with good quarters within my budget, I may be FORCED to buy a late C4 corvette!

I'm really looking for something with a back seat, maybe even a wagon, or a fold down rear like a late Duster or early Barracuda- and something that might get decent mileage.

For the prices I've seen within a 175 mile radius, on 60s and 70's Mopars, I can buy a fairly nice late 80's - early 90's Vette.
Would get good mileage and would be fun to drive, but would not allow rear seat passengers or cargo. Would also NOT be "simple" to work on, but WOULD be easy (albeit expensive) to find parts for.

If you buy a vette, get a 95-96 and best would be a 96 6sp w/LT4. GM says the HP is 330, I have heard of many bone stock ones putting out over 350.

Back on subject, what is your budget and what are you looking for?
I have a 73 Rallye that I am putting in a 4sp auto, needs minor body work and paint, but the interior has been completely restored and the steering, suspension and radiator are either restored or new.

 

[YY1]

Got another piece of advice for 73/74...go directly to Tabco for the quarter patches.
Might be a small hassle, but I' have it on GOOD authority that athey are nearly 1/2 the price of the ones on ebay.

My budget is the best value I can get for my money

What are you looking to get from your car? Got pics?
What original motor? I was gonna do the A500/A518 thing in my 74 since it's a 318 car and would have lots of other body work.

 

[CoronetRTguy]

I had a Corvette guy look at my LT4 today and he said that they are pushing bone stock 350-358 HP from the factory. He said that it will out perform the LS1 motor cars in a lot of areas.

He was going home to think about it and see where he could park it until his truck sold.

He also drove a nice pro street 70s camaro here and really looked my car over and was shocked at how well maintained the Vette was for the miles on it, he said it was really a clean looking car.

My budget if I sell my vette is 5500.