2~Post Car Lift VS 4~Post Lift

[moparcrazy]

So I go back & forth on what would be the best lift for working on my project car's and maintaining my daily drivers ?

 

[91r/t]

2 post by far for working on brakes, outside components, hell even exhaust. For storage mainly I would go for the 4 post. Those jacks that can slide in the tracking of the 4 post are great for older stuff, but there are very little jacking points on newer stuff, so it makes it tough to get the wheels up safely.

 

[Derwud]

2 post all day long.. Agree 100 percent with 91r/t

 

[6PKRTSE]

I agree, 2 post for sure but I am getting a 4 post mainly for storage or stacking of cars.

 

[dadsbee]

2 post all day long to access and work on stuff. Hell you can even use it to stack your cars if need be..

 

[Mocajava]

The 2 post takes some planning PRIOR to install. Picking the optimum place in garage, making sure there is enough concrete support for the posts and proper anchoring are mandatory as it won't be moved easily. I had a 4 post and it did limit access to certain aspects of working on cars but the upside was I could shuffle it out of way to have floor space and could use it for storage.

 

[moparcrazy]

Wow sounds like a 2 Post is the way to go !1 thank you gentlemen !!

 

[Darter6]

Yep, Had both and sold the 4 post (Banged my head toooo many times) Still got my 2 post for over 20 years now.

 

[Johnpat]

Danmar mx6

 

[91r/t]

Wow sounds like a 2 Post is the way to go !1 thank you gentlemen !!

Also, try and find one that has assymetrical arms if you aren't doing any huge heavy lifting. This will allow you to pick the car up with the doors further back and not hit the pillars on the lift when you open them.

 

[747mopar]

Also, try and find one that has assymetrical arms if you aren't doing any huge heavy lifting. This will allow you to pick the car up with the doors further back and not hit the pillars on the lift when you open them.

I don't like the asymmetrical because of the weight distribution so I ordered a symmetrical lift with an additional foot of width.. doors open easy.

Yes 2 post all day long here as well. One thing I never see mentioned for those who only have a 4" slab is bracing the top of the lift to the ceiling??? Think about it, if the top can't tip all the anchors have to do is keep it from moving around. I haven't done it to mine yet since it's anchored down to a 6" thick rebared slab but plan to just as a precaution.

 

[moparcrazy]

I don't like the asymmetrical because of the weight distribution so I ordered a symmetrical lift with an additional foot of width.. doors open easy.

Yes 2 post all day long here as well. One thing I never see mentioned for those who only have a 4" slab is bracing the top of the lift to the ceiling??? Think about it, if the top can't tip all the anchors have to do is keep it from moving around. I haven't done it to mine yet since it's anchored down to a 6" thick rebared slab but plan to just as a precaution.

I plan on saw cutting the concrete slab and installing a Footing at a minimum of 24x24x24 with 18" J bolts, over kill? Yes, but I have Claustrophobia, even something over my head freaks me out, Lol

 

[747mopar]

I plan on saw cutting the concrete slab and installing a Footing at a minimum of 24x24x24 with 18" J bolts, over kill? Yes, but I have Claustrophobia, even something over my head freaks me out, Lol

That's waaaaay overkill but if that's what it takes to make you feel safe go for it. Do your homework on lifts too, lots of pictures out there of cheap ones failing.

 

[kiwigtx]

Yes 2 post all day long here as well. One thing I never see mentioned for those who only have a 4" slab is bracing the top of the lift to the ceiling??? Think about it, if the top can't tip all the anchors have to do is keep it from moving around. I haven't done it to mine yet since it's anchored down to a 6" thick rebared slab but plan to just as a precaution.

Everyone I know over here has the 2-post lifts.

And my friends have spreader bars bolted to the feet to prevent tip-over.
Custom made, and extra to the lift as supplied, but great peace of mind and good insurance.

 

[91r/t]

I don't like the asymmetrical because of the weight distribution so I ordered a symmetrical lift with an additional foot of width.. doors open easy.

Yes 2 post all day long here as well. One thing I never see mentioned for those who only have a 4" slab is bracing the top of the lift to the ceiling??? Think about it, if the top can't tip all the anchors have to do is keep it from moving around. I haven't done it to mine yet since it's anchored down to a 6" thick rebared slab but plan to just as a precaution.

Yea lifting cars and small trucks its fine. If I was lifting Heavier trucks and bigger equipment, I am with ya all day long on the symmetrical. Extra width would be the way to go with the symmetrical for sure if ya found one of those.

 

[HawkRod]

2 post by far for working on brakes, outside components, hell even exhaust. For storage mainly I would go for the 4 post. Those jacks that can slide in the tracking of the 4 post are great for older stuff, but there are very little jacking points on newer stuff, so it makes it tough to get the wheels up safely.

Totally agree with this. 2 post is the way to go if you work on the car with any frequency, 4 post is best for stacking cars and minor work.

2 post all day long to access and work on stuff. Hell you can even use it to stack your cars if need be..

I stack cars with my 2 post. With a 4 post, you need drip trays and most (all) are built to accommodate those. With a 2 post, you need to make your own system. I use a metal 4x8 (narrowed a bit) roofing panel suspended beneath the car. It has worked great except for one time when my brakes blew in my 70 before it was restored. My son's 73 Road Runner was underneath, and we came out to find brake fluid all over the rear quarter. Luckily, we were able to buff out that mishap.

 

[moparcrazy]

That's waaaaay overkill but if that's what it takes to make you feel safe go for it. Do your homework on lifts too, lots of pictures out there of cheap ones failing.

Lol agree, but its only two holes, a days work & about $500. cheap insurance Lol

 

[dadsbee]

One thing I never see mentioned for those who only have a 4" slab is bracing the top of the lift to the ceiling??? Think about it, if the top can't tip all the anchors have to do is keep it from moving around. I haven't done it to mine yet since it's anchored down to a 6" thick rebared slab but plan to just as a precaution.

I have over 6" of concrete.. cured 18 years before my lift went in. Drivers side post cracked the floor with my wife's Sport Trac on it. Cracked a section actually out to the expansion cut lines in the pad. I loosened the mount bolts to the floor and sledged some pieces of 1/4" plate into the floor cuts to "hold" the slab corner and then built the truss on the top. Now I don't worry about it anymore, even with the 2500 on the lift. Like my Son's "fluke" licence plate on his Focus!!!

 

[moparcrazy]

I have over 6" of concrete.. cured 18 years before my lift went in. Drivers side post cracked the floor with my wife's Sport Trac on it. Cracked a section actually out to the expansion cut lines in the pad. I loosened the mount bolts to the floor and sledged some pieces of 1/4" plate into the floor cuts to "hold" the slab corner and then built the truss on the top. Now I don't worry about it anymore, even with the 2500 on the lift. Like my Son's "fluke" licence plate on his Focus!!!
View attachment 744783 View attachment 744784 View attachment 744785 View attachment 744786 View attachment 744788

Awesome idea !

 

[747mopar]

I have over 6" of concrete.. cured 18 years before my lift went in. Drivers side post cracked the floor with my wife's Sport Trac on it. Cracked a section actually out to the expansion cut lines in the pad. I loosened the mount bolts to the floor and sledged some pieces of 1/4" plate into the floor cuts to "hold" the slab corner and then built the truss on the top. Now I don't worry about it anymore, even with the 2500 on the lift. Like my Son's "fluke" licence plate on his Focus!!!View attachment 744789 View attachment 744783 View attachment 744784 View attachment 744785 View attachment 744786 View attachment 744788

That's exactly what I was talking about, provided it's bolted to something solid it ain't ever going anywhere now regardless of the floor.