284/484 MP camshaft in a 440

[69 Runner]

Tell the truth. You're just trying to take up the slack cause "you know who" isn't here anymore:rolling::rolling::rolling:

 

[rumblefish360]

Personally I'd go with something like this http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CRN-643904&autoview=sku

To small IMO, I'd go next size up on the Crane list.

272/284 (@ .050) 216/228 - .454 / .480 on a 112.

I run one in a 318 now with 3.21's in a suregrip equiped rear. Does very well, uses the stock converter, zero dead spot down low, runs nice and smooth.

Dead stock '79 - 318 in a Duster with a 625 Carter carb on top of a LD4B dual plane Edelbrock intake and Hooker headers w/2-1/2 exhaust.
15.14 @ 89 mph on the first outting at the track.

t'll give me 14's no problem after I dial in the distibutor and carb.

 

[ACME A12]

To small IMO, I'd go next size up on the Crane list.

Ditto.

There is a great thread over on FABO regarding the Lunati Voodoo cams. Includes dialogue with the gentleman (I forget his name - Sorry) that actually designed them. As I recall there were graphs that demonstrated their superiorty over even the Comp XE grinds. Interesting reading if you're in the market for a hydraulic flat tappet. I'd do a search over there and dig it out. I have Comp XEs in two cars and remember thinking "Damn, I left some horsepower on the table..." after reading that...

Ray

 

[ACME A12]

My curiosity got the better of me and I went looking for this. Here's the link:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=25865

Harold Brookshire is the gentleman's name - the founder of Ultradyne Cams. Hired by Holley to design the Lunati grinds.

No graphs; just charts - my memory is failing... HUH???

Takes you to another link which is the Team Chevelle website...try not to get permanently sucked into bowtie-world boys...and if you do...just ship those pesky old Mopars down my way...

:grin:
Ray

 

[69 Runner]

Don't think this would hurt a bit. Summit makes what amounts to a blueprint "stock" cam and is a really good piece.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM-6401&autoview=sku

I've known people who have run these, and they run really well. Won't break the bank either. I can tell you since the chances of me doing any more racing isn't great, there are only a couple of cams I'll consider running. One is my favorite BB cam, which my friend Bob Karakashian makes. It IS a blueprinted stock cam and is made to run well with manifolds. BOY does it run. For small blocks the only cams I'm considering are the Voodoo cams. Nothing fancy or over complicated.

It's fun to go fast, but I don't like breaking stuff or doing a job twice.

ramble off.....I've been sick

 

[Boz]

The Voodoo cam I was looking at is a 3 bolt design. Does that matter as long as I purchase the right timing set? Are the gear drives on ebay any good? I found one being sold by a place called race parts for $69.Thanks

 

[69 Runner]

Doesn't matter as long as you match the timing set. I've always kinda believed "you get what you pay for" so I don't think I'd buy a "gear drive" for $69. However, I'd pay $69 for a double roller timing set.....and probably have:grin:

 

[Boz]

I was just wondering all the ones on ebay were $60-$99 but they don't say what brand they are. I was wanting to get a noisey one I like the way they sound. Thanks

 

[rumblefish360]

1 or 3 bolt design doesn't matter. I muself would skip the gear drive and use a good timing chain like a Cloyes or Rollmaster and be done with it there.

 

[Boz]

Is there a reason for not running a Gear on them? Thanks

 

[ACME A12]

Yes - the same reason that you like them...TOO NOISEY!!! Anything making that much noise under (through???) one of my hoods better be a source of forced induction and say "BDS" or "Dyer" on it... :grin:

If you're really gonna go the gear drive route, buy yourself a brand name one and don't mess around with that Shang-Hai junk on e-bag... You get what you pay for...

Best possible advice: Re-read Rumble's post and follow his directions. He laid out a perfectly sound plan for you; Cloyes or Rollmaster. I have Rollmasters on a couple pieces of my junk - NICE PIECES.

Ray

 

[Meep-Meep]

I's say you're on the right track. Another one to look into is LUN-80440LK and the .445" MP cam, but I think the MP cam will require more compression. Lift is pretty irrelevant here. I'd look more closely at the intake closing event as that's the single most important factor in cam selection. That's the point you start building cylinder pressure. Following the mfgr's recommended compression ratio guidelines is the best thing you can do to to avoid problems. The Magnum cam is a great cam but it requires some compression.

I have a similar Crane cam (as mentioned above) in my 8.5:1 CR 455 Olds powered jet boat and it's responsive as hell, works great with the stock QJ and goes straight to 4400 RPM! My 72 Porsche 911 came with 7.5:1 CR (now has 8.0:1) and blows 150-160 PSI of cranking pressure. It also pulls nicely to 6000 RPM. Lift is not the end all be all of cam selection.

 

[rumblefish360]

I's say you're on the right track. Another one to look into is LUN-80440LK and the .445" MP cam, but I think the MP cam will require more compression. Lift is pretty irrelevant here. I'd look more closely at the intake closing event as that's the single most important factor in cam selection. That's the point you start building cylinder pressure. Following the mfgr's recommended compression ratio guidelines is the best thing you can do to to avoid problems. The Magnum cam is a great cam but it requires some compression.

Meep - Meep!

A most excellent and true post. Lift is not a major concern. More is merrier, but worth only a few ponies on an average build. Theres power to be found if you set it up in a race engine arena, but your not there or going there are you.

Street cams in street engines, even a decently hot one, doesn't require a big lift at all. Just a well executed plan.

Theres more than one way to skin a cat. It just depends on the little details and how far you wanna take the trip down that path. (Read $$$$$$)
Most guys just go for a good rebuild type of shortblock and add the required pistons for the intended target build, add cam, heads, intake and headers. Then call it a day from there.
(Read $$$)

Theres nothing wrong with that at all. No sir. It's done 99% of the time and it is just fine. I've done it before and I'll do it again.

 

[daredevil]

Tell the truth. You're just trying to take up the slack cause "you know who" isn't here anymore:rolling::rolling::rolling:

thats just friggin wrong. i hope all your kids are born naked and look like the mail man

 

[69 Runner]

:HappyNewYear:

 

[daredevil]

i knew that would call ya out lol

 

[69 Runner]

I'm here...btw:grin:

 

[daredevil]

im here 2

 

[daredevil]

but need to be there working on my coronet

 

[69 Runner]

then you should go there.

and not be here.

now.

maybe later.