318 - 904A Dissengagement

[wyrmrider]

yep- you have to support the bellhousing
the tailshaft end is supported by the motormount
the bellhousing end is heavy so put a jack or something under it

 

[SublimeSixpack]

Yes it does thank you!!! The reassembly is not super simple from what I am reading. I need to make dam sure that converter is engaged fully internally in three key ways for proper re-fitment. My concern is that during re-assembly I have to pull it out slightly to bolt it back together to the flex plate and NOT disengage one of the pump contacts of the TQ to trans....

FWIW I use a pair of vice grips to keep the TC in place until I'm ready to install the engine to the trans.
Once you bolt the engine back to the trans. you won't have to worry about pulling the TC out too far. That won't happen. You'll bring it forward to meet the flexplate, then install the four bolts.

 

[Moparfiend]

Thanks guys this has been very helpful for me!!!!

 

[Moparfiend]

The trans. needs to be supported.View attachment 561613

I see the vice grip and now understand why its there!!

 

[oldbee]

The trans. needs to be supported.View attachment 561613

Checkout ‘sublimes’ mark on flexplate,,,,one bolt is off-center from the rest. It’s a real PITA when you get 2 bolts in & find out the next one won’t lineup!

 

[Moparfiend]

Checkout ‘sublimes’ mark on flexplate,,,,one bolt is off-center from the rest. It’s a real PITA when you get 2 bolts in & find out the next one won’t lineup!

Yes! Have white nail polish standing by lol

 

[Moparfiend]

Starter, radiator, AC condenser, water pump, PS pump all out. Fuel lines out and terminated. Flex plate and TC marked for reassembly.
Penetrating oil on the two engine mount bolts.

So all I think is left to do is the 5-6 bell housing bolts and the 4 flex plate bolts. Then yank and hook it up to the engine stand.....

 

[oldbee]

Don’t forget, push converter rearward when last flexplate bolt is out & block it to not let it come forward.

 

[Moparfiend]

Don’t forget, push converter rearward when last flexplate bolt is out & block it to not let it come forward.

Yup thanks for the reminder oldbee! At my age I tend to forget things if not written down! Thats why I love this medium, it’s documented for me to refer back to when I forget and best of all it has pictures for knuckleheads like me

 

[oldbee]

Yup thanks for the reminder oldbee! At my age I tend to forget things if not written down! Thats why I love this medium, it’s documented for me to refer back to when I forget and best of all it has pictures for knuckleheads like me

Lol, documentation so you can blame us!!!

 

[SublimeSixpack]

Sorry if this seems obvious, but unbolt the TC before unbolting the engine from the trans.

 

[Moparfiend]

Sorry if this seems obvious, but unbolt the TC before unbolting the engine from the trans.

That is to make sure I don’t bend the input shaft or flex plate by having some weight on it I presume. Makes sense also as its going to take a manual spin of the crank to get at em as well and I would want the assembly to be straight. Thanks for looking out for me on this! Explicit inputs like this will help keep me on the right track during the heat of battle lol...

 

[SublimeSixpack]

That is to make sure I don’t bend the input shaft or flex plate by having some weight on it I presume. Makes sense also as its going to take a manual spin of the crank to get at em as well and I would want the assembly to be straight. Thanks for looking out for me on this! Explicit inputs like this will help keep me on the right track during the heat of battle lol...

I was mostly thinking of your safety. Even though there is an alignment pin on each side of the engine where the trans. meets the block, plus the hub of the TC is positioned into the back of the crank, it's wise IMO to remove the TC bolts first, then the trans. to block bolts. You don't need a damaged digit (pinkie) if by chance the engine or trans. shift and drop some.
Ideally you'll have both the trans. and engine supported while removing the TC bolts so this won't happen.
Like I said this may be obvious, but some times being human it's easy to overlook the little things that can cause us problems.

 

[dryheat]

Ron ... I will be there at 7:00 tomorrow AM and can help you get anything disconnected that may be in the way. Looking forward to meeting you.

 

[Moparfiend]

Ron ... I will be there at 7:00 tomorrow AM and can help you get anything disconnected that may be in the way. Looking forward to meeting you.

Thanks Jim I as well!

 

[Moparfiend]

Shazam she’s out! Thank you all for that great advice and encouragement! Really paid of in making this dissassembly smoooooth! Especially want to thank dryheat who was able to lend an expert hand in plucking the engine!
Here sh

show

 

[SublimeSixpack]

So what's the plan now?

 

[Moparfiend]

So what's the plan now?

Hey Sublime I am not sure yet. Dryheat took his scope and inspected the interior of the Edlebrock Performer manifold and we did not see anything to lead us to believe that this was the cause of the water ingress.
I have not yet inspected the engine as my back is still bugging me but now that the block is on the stand I will get to the inspection tomorrow hopefully. I doubt I will be able to find the smoking gun. I am still puzzled how I could have a leak on both sides of the block.
I can say the this engine looked ok before I started it up. The oil was not milky when I changed it as I prepared it fir start. Some thing happened quickly that caused this and the only thing I can think of was simultaneous head gasket failure. What are tge chances of that?
WRT a motor I am open to anything small block related. I would love to put a 408 Stroker in it! That type of performance would be really fun. But my drive train is a A904 (unknown operability) with more than likely a dog torque converter stuck in it and the pegleg short rear end. What I might need is a donor drive line and a winning Lotto ticket lol.

 

[SublimeSixpack]

Well, at least with the engine on a stand you'll be better able to check things out.
Have you really thought out what you want from the car? (Cruiser/highway car, corner carver, hot rod, etc.?)

 

[Moparfiend]

Well, at least with the engine on a stand you'll be better able to check things out.
Have you really thought out what you want from the car? (Cruiser/highway car, corner carver, hot rod, etc.?)

I was thinking of a cruiser thats a little obnoxious......something that if your daughters date came by to pick her up ... you would say absolutely not. Was thinking lemon yellow with black stripes and possibly side exits with headers. Yes I give this a lot of thought as this is as fun as of build I can make it. My last build was a factory correct restoration that was by the book and while that turned out very nice I want something thats my own now...