• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

318 Distributor Drive Gear in Engine Block

Stukenbroeker

Active Member
Local time
11:38 AM
Joined
Feb 3, 2014
Messages
43
Reaction score
6
Location
Charleston, SC
Hey guys,

I was having some trouble with my 318 the other day and took it into a local shop. They told me it was the distributor rotor, cap, and coil. Ok, easy enough. They wanted $300 to do the work, so I said no thanks, it's time to upgrade. Well when I picked up the car, they had removed the distributor and once I got home I noticed that the drive gear is still in the engine. I'm familiar with installing/removing distributors with the drive gear attached, so this seemed a bit off to me.

Can anyone tell me if this is to be expected? And if not, what's the best way of getting it out? I've searched the web and haven't found the answer I'm looking for and you guys never disappoint!

Thanks!!
 
I don't know about a 318 but 440 distributors have a flat machined area at the bottom of the shaft that slips into the top of the drive gear. The drive gear comes out with a twist counter-clockwise using a long screwdriver. Once the gear is free of the cam, use a long magnet; the one I have is on the end of a telescoping rod.

Good luck.
 
This is why I love you guys! Thanks a ton. So, it's normal for the gear to stay in with the oil pump drive shaft.

So that means that the new distributor could only go in 2 ways, correct? In order to get the flat part lined up in the slot for it to drop in?
 
I'm curious, as to why you are taking it out?

I didn't take it out, the shop did. Why they did is still a mystery to me as well. When I picked up the car they handed me a box of parts that they took off. I had been toying with the idea of upgrading the ignition system anyways, so I'm taking advantage of a bad situation and I'm going to try out one of the Ready-to-Run dizzys with a blaster coil and see how much better she runs!
 
This is why I love you guys! Thanks a ton. So, it's normal for the gear to stay in with the oil pump drive shaft.

So that means that the new distributor could only go in 2 ways, correct? In order to get the flat part lined up in the slot for it to drop in?

Correct. if they messed with it, simply find top dead center, and re Install , then Install the distributer with the rotor pointing to cyl number one.
 
Correct. if they messed with it, simply find top dead center, and re Install , then Install the distributer with the rotor pointing to cyl number one.

Yeah, I know they didn't crank it over, but I also don't know how the distributor was set when they took it out. Looks like I'm starting from scratch! But that's ok, tomorrow's my day off!
 
Correct. Rotor should point at same location old distributor was pointing when you removed it. If you didn't note that before you pulled it, rotate the engine to TDC and put the new distributor in with the rotor facing cylinder #1. Sometimes it's necessary to rotate the drive gear until the slot lines up where yo need it.

Here's what the gear and its slot looks like from above.

318 distributor gear.jpg
 
That's great news. I'm just so used to the drive gears being pinned to the distributor I almost had a mild breakdown when i saw the gear in the block. Thanks again guys!
 
Correct. Rotor should point at same location old distributor was pointing when you removed it. If you didn't note that before you pulled it, rotate the engine to TDC and put the new distributor in with the rotor facing cylinder #1. Sometimes it's necessary to rotate the drive gear until the slot lines up where yo need it.

Here's what the gear and its slot looks like from above.

View attachment 169871

Does it matter which way you rotate the gear? I've heard counterclockwise....
 
When replacing the distributor is actually BETTER to leave the gear in place: makes re-installation much easier. No reason to take it out unless you're inspecting for damage or wear.

The LA small block gears rotate ccw.
 
When replacing the distributor is actually BETTER to leave the gear in place: makes re-installation much easier. No reason to take it out unless you're inspecting for damage or wear.

The LA small block gears rotate ccw.

He's right. Leave the gear in the block. If you are buying a new distributor, it'll have a tab/tang on the bottom like the one they pulled out...as long as you get one for a Mopar!

When I had my A-body in high school with points ignition, I kept two distributors and would set the points on the bench & keep one in the trunk. When it was tune-up time, I'd pull one out and shove the other one in. It was a lot easier than leaning over the whole thing trying to set the points. With the gear staying in the block, your distributor goes in exactly right or 180-out. Easy as pie!
 
When replacing the distributor is actually BETTER to leave the gear in place: makes re-installation much easier. No reason to take it out unless you're inspecting for damage or wear.

The LA small block gears rotate ccw.

Isn't all small block gears rotate clockwise ???
 
note in case of an MP dist upgrade:

MP distributors are made with rotor aprox 90 degrees off
 
To remove the gear (should you need to) I take two big flat bladed screwdrivers and insert them both into the slot. When you squeeze the handles together, it sideloads the tips and you can then twist and simultaneously pull up the remove the gear. Reverse procedure to install. :icon_compress:
 
Sears sells a magnetic tipped screw driver, like used on jet engines to remove FOD.
 
mmm... dunno if you noticed intake is not there, so can be pulled out with hands ;)

but still with intake, with just use a flat screwdriver to spin out in opposite direction of the gears theeth, will pull out the gear from the engaging, sitting it over the cam, and with regular long plyers will make the job to take it straight out.
 
Never messed with a small block, but no reason it's not like the big ones.
Yeah, that drive gear just pulls out. The 'drive' for the dist is the keyway, at the end of the shaft.
At the bottom end of the shaft, should be a hexed shaft, that fits into, and drives your oil pump.

Doesn't matter how the dist keyway is lined-up, but most drop it in so your rotor is pointing at no. 1 on your cap. You simply make sure all your drives engage, and the shaft bottoms out.

But, like it's been said before, probably no reason to pull it, unless you want to reset the dist rotor, and put no. 1 as in the book.
 
Yeah, the new Ready-to-Run shaft/rotor was 90 degrees out from stock, so i'm pointing a little off, but that's fine with me. I'm the only one looking at it :)
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top