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318 idleing issue

str8up720

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Been trying to figure this one out for quite sum time already. It is a stock 318 with some minor mods (small cam, ld4b eddy intake, 1406 eddy carb). Ever since the carb/intake swap, I could never get it idling properly. I recently discovered that I was using a wrong carb spread bore gasket causing it to leak vacuum. Replaced that, now it idles at around 2k, and when I try to shift into gear, it stalls. I have the fast idle screw backed out all the way, and the idle one barely making contact enough to keep it running. I dont seem to see any possible vacuum leaks, any other Ideas? I just want to go for a cruise sometime soon!
 
Check choke operation and adjustment. Check throttle linkage isn't binding. Spray carb cleaner around carb and intake to check for vacuum leaks. Hold your hand over the primaries and see if it starts to die or keeps on keeping on... if it does its getting air from somewhere. Timing good?
 
Take a bunch of pictures of the top of your motor showing both sides of the carburetor, front and back if possible. Also, any hose connections on the manifold. Post on this site. It'll help us diagnose.
 
I used to have the same problem, ie: good or even too fast idle, then when I'd put it in Drive...HUGE rpm drop, sometimes to the point of stalling. The car doesn't do that anymore, and I can't be sure which adjustment did it, but what's mentioned in the above posts is the same tack I took....minimize/eliminate vacuum leaks, use a vacuum gauge connected to manifold vacuum to set your idle mix screws for maximum vacuum at idle. Set your timing for 15-20 degrees btdc (mine was still gaining rpm all the way up to 40 btdc...so much for timing by ear) with the vac adv can disconnected and the hose plugged. You can reconnect it to see what your total advance is, but that doesn't really pertain to the subject of odd-ball idle behavior unless your distributor is connected to a manifold vacuum source. In that case you would be getting 20 or so degrees of advance at idle, and no more when the rpm goes up. Also, as said before, make sure your choke is opening all the way, and of course that your vac lines are connected to thier correct vacuum source (vac adv dist uses ported vacuum, aka before the throttle blades. A vacuum gauge for a reading should be after the butterflies). Clogged pcv, bad brake booster, dirty air filter, float level, crud in the needle/seat (Edelbrock equivalent), etc. Lots of settings and adjustments you can tinker w before you really have to take anything apart.
 
Great suggestions! i have my days work cut in, but will repost with results and pictures..
 
Here are a few pics of my set up...

- - - Updated - - -

I went ahead and checked some of your suggestions...timing was at 32* at 2500 Rpms, played with the choke and notice that when the engine fired up, the choke would fully open. I then covered the primaries with my hand and it seemed to settled down a bit. I am wondering how much tension should the choke valve have? Also at what position do I set the fast idle cam?
 

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If you covered the primaries and it didn't die... then you are likely sucking in air from somewhere. (i.e. vacuum leak)

If you can't find a leak check that the secondaries are not open a little.
 
Looks like the vacuum fitting on the power brake booster 'T' in front of the distributor is open. Is it? Where are you getting vacuum for your distributor from or is it a mechanical only unit?
 
Distributor is mechanical unit. Vacuum fitting is plugged up. ive seen a couple edelbrock carb set up that use a carb spacer. Anyone know if this is required for these carbs. possibly the source of the leak?
 
A carburetor spacer is not required unless the linkage is hitting something on the manifold. Then you might need to raise it. As far as covering the primaries with your hand; If the motor was cold, your hand was acting like the choke. Is the choke linkage hooked up? To adjust it, wait till the motor is stone cold (overnight) and then adjust it so that when you open the butterflies, the choke closes with a little tension. When you start the motor, the choke should open slightly (1/8"-1/4" is usually close enough). Realize that before you start the motor you need to press the accelerator pedal down first so the choke can close and the fast idle cam can engage. A factory service manual or a Chiltons will help you here.
Did you spray carb cleaner (Berryman's B-12) or water on all the gasketed surfaces and fittings? What happened?
 
So after the period spent getting my mind off this issue I got back on it. I went ahead and sprayed some carb cleaner around the intake and carb, and found a small increase in rpm reaction near one of the carb bolts. Sure enough, it was bolted down fully. That seemed to calm it down a bit. Next I hooked up a vacuum gauge and played with the idle mix screws, trying to achieve the highest possible vacuum (about 15 ). I was adjusting the screws one at a time, achieving highest possible vacuum, then once achieved, bring it back down a bit. It seems to idle a bit smoother, but What I ended up with was the left screw about 2 1/8 turn out, and the right one about 1. Do they both have to be the same amount turned out?
 
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