Carter 4429 Whistling and Rich...Help!

[oldbee]

Looks good, 12-14” vacuum? Curious myself.

 

[Macdon221]

If I can get the carb idled down and get it to be able to adjust the mixture I know I can get 12".

Now to figure that out.

 

[Orig69]

Did you try to spray the secondary throttle shaft on both sides of the carb?

 

[khryslerkid]

AR67GTX....very interesting....yes I am using a 1 hole gasket. I do have 4 hole ones in my collection I could try.

Any disadvantage of using a 4 hole gasket at all?

This is more than likely your problem. There's a small gap under the carb that's not sealed between the chambers/throats. Could also explain the lower vacuum.

 

[Macdon221]

Update.....

So I removed the carb and doubled checked all settings. All seemed ok.

Throttles fully closed off the car just enough of the transfer slots showing. A small square or slightly less.

Removed all paint that was on the intake that would be under the carb gasket. Ensured no high spots.

Installed a thinner 4 hole gasket that was of the correct size and dimensions. The holes were just slightly bigger than the carb bores. It was the gasket that comes with the carb rebuild kits. I had a few lying around. I had a thicker 4 hole gasket but the holes were slightly smaller than the carb bore sizes.

Car timed at 15 degrees. Using stock points distributer...just rebuilt by Ray...with a limiter plate to ensure not over 34 degrees all in. Timing checked and confirmed as described.

I did not have a lot of time after I got it all back on....but the whistle is gone! The bottom 2 mixture screws are now effective and the single reverse thread air mixture screw at the top is very effective. The idle I can also now get down low no problem. 750 ish without issue. I could get it lower as well.

The vacuum without a bunch more tweaking I got to 13" on my old guage. Before it was at 10.5 max. So getting there. Pleased so far!

What do you all think I should be getting for vacuum with the cam specs that I posted earlier?

I am cursing the choke though. I have set up chokes before...finicky and I am no expert but I get them dialed in eventually. This one I can take out and put a hairdryer on it and it works and brings the rod down no issue....but placed in the manifold it simply does not want to pull down. Even with the rod disconnected from the carb. Not sure what gives there.

Have not checked the metering rods to see if down yet. Tomorrow.

Any more suggestions on any of the above?

Macdon221

 

[Geoff 2]

13" of vac sounds about right. Yes, check your met rod pistons at idle.
Whistling of carbs. Like blowing air across the top of an open Coke bottle...
Have had it happen many times over the years, mainly with TQs. I suspect it is caused by throttle opening & just the 'right amount' of air speed passing the t/blades.

 

[Jonas Nordstrom]

Cool that you got it sorted.
....got me thinking, did the old spacer cover those idle passages on the bottom of the carb correctly?

 

[AR67GTX]

That is odd about the choke. Even if you have the heat risers blocked with the intake gaskets, that should only delay it activating somewhat. You may need to try a new coil. But check that it isn’t dragging in the intake, cast well.

 

[oldbee]

That is odd about the choke. Even if you have the heat risers blocked with the intake gaskets, that should only delay it activating somewhat. You may need to try a new coil. But check that it isn’t dragging in the intake, cast well.

Exactly ^^^^. My heat riser spring is broken,so mine is wired open; choke is still fully open after 5min. or so.

 

[ynst]

"Removed all paint that was on the intake that would be under the carb gasket. Ensured no high spots."

Why do people even paint a machined mating surface is beyond me. Is that surface even flat now after all that pre-paint sanding and messing around?

 

[gtxrt]

OldBee...

Figured out the cam shaft in the motor.

It is a COMP cam #21-223-4

What can anyone tell me about the CAM choice/vacuum?

Thanks

Emissions Code
Engine Family	Chrysler 383-440 c.i. 8 Cylinder (1959-1980)
RPM Operating Range	1,600-5,800
Cam Type	Hydraulic Flat Tappet
Camshaft Series	Xtreme Energy
Camshaft Gear Attachment	1-Bolt
Usage	Street/Performance
California Proposition 65	WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm P65Warnings.ca.gov
Advertised Intake Duration	268
Advertised Exhaust Duration	280
Intake Duration at .050 Inch Lift	224
Exhaust Duration at .050 Inch Lift	230
Intake Valve Lift	0.477
Exhaust Valve Lift	0.48
Lobe Separation	110
Intake Centerline	106
Lifter Style	Hydraulic Flat Tappet
Make	Chrysler

you should have a min of 14-15 lbs with a healthy engine, also depends what your rpm is at idle check at 800 rpms

 

[toolmanmike]

This guy talks about whistle. Around 4 min. but watch the whole thing. Lots of good info and the guy has great tuning videos.
He also talks about heat soak.

 

[Macdon221]

An update....

Again this is an original rebuilt Carter AVS carb. The metering rods were being taken down by the vacuum in the carb no prob at 850 rpm idle. Upon blipping the throttle the pistons would pop up...not always but about 50% of the time on a very quick large throttle blip. The spring in there was from the carb rebuild. I had a full set of 4 different spring sets. I started with the Orange ones (5hg)....they were the same. I moved up to the Pink Springs (7hg) and that made a difference...they now pop up upon most little throttle blips.

Assuming that is where I should be?

 

[Some Car Guy]

Being rated about half of vacuum is the ballpark. Drive it and see how it does. Should be ok. Easy enough to go to 6s or 8s if you want to keep playing with it. The springs are a trial and error thing beyond the about half vacuum deal.

 

[Geoff 2]

To select the springs, assuming you have a set of different spring/vac ratings.

Start with the highest vacuum rate springs. If the springs stay down at idle, in gear, job done.

If not, go to the next stiffest springs & re-test. Etc. You want the stiffest springs that will stay down at idle.

 

[Macdon221]

Thanks for the info!!!