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318 poly tune-up help needed

66Satellite_in_NC

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I have started (finally) doing the little things to my 66 satellite and need some help. I need the tune-up specs for the 318 poly but since the previous owner installed the 4 barrel, I am unsure if that it changes anything.

What would be the specs for dwell, spark plug gap, timing and idle RPM? I have a service manual but can't locate the specs yet and wondered what would be the setting for it since it has a 4 barrel (if it makes any difference). Also I believe I would need to remove and plug the vacuum going to the dizzy's advance.


Thanks

Bill
 
specs are in the electrical section at the end. No 4bbl motors were made in 66, all specs are still the same as the stock 2bbl motor.

don't forget to adjust your valves also, most people forget about that.

Bryan
 
OK, I'll check my manual again. I know that the 318 in the satellite wasn't offered with 4 barrel but gotta work with I got.

Thanks

Bill
 
Specs back then will usually not be the same for today but setting by the book is a good starting place....but even back then, I was deviating from stock specs. Also, each engine is different and the book covers all of them. It just won't be the same for every single engine even when they were new.
 
yea..I agree...the stock specs will get him in the "ballpark" to find out if there is anything wrong with the engine for runnabilty issues...he can tweak & adjust from there....

Bryan
 
I think there is a problem with my vacuum advance, what is a good way to check to see if it is working?
 
Timing Light:

Disconnect and plug vacuum advance hose.
Rotate distributor CW to retard, CCL to advance.



Cold valve adjustment:

“Cold is Cold” - Valve Lash Adjustment – EO / IC

When Exhaust is beginning to Open: Set INTAKE.

When Intake is 1/2-3/4 way to Closing: Set EXHAUST.

Add .002 to hot spec. (Cast iron heads and block).
For exact cold setting: Set intake and exhaust for one cylinder hot to spec.
Let engine cool dead cold ovenight - then measure lash on that same cylnder for both I/E to get actual values for setting all valves cold.*

*My Poly's actual measured cold valve lash, after setting hot:

INTAKE: .010 (Intake .010 hot spec).
EXHAUST: .020 (Exhaust .018 hot spec).

Try it - sure works nice...... :icon_winkle:
 
Bill,

If you end up buying plug wires, you could end up with the wrong ones. A lot of places seem to think all 318s are the same. If you get LA wires, they're a little on the short side reaching across the wider Poly. They'll still work - just a tighter fit.
 
Thanks for the heads up Plucked, I have never done a valve lash adjustment to a car so in uncharted territories with that. What is the best way to do it without making a real mess with oil, get the car up to operating temp and then shut it down, pull the valve cover and then make my adjustments to #1 cylinder and then let the car sit overnight and then check all others for the same lash?

Thanks

Bill
 
Thanks for the heads up Plucked, I have never done a valve lash adjustment to a car so in uncharted territories with that. What is the best way to do it without making a real mess with oil, get the car up to operating temp and then shut it down, pull the valve cover and then make my adjustments to #1 cylinder and then let the car sit overnight and then check all others for the same lash?

Thanks

Bill

Yep exaclty. Neither had I ever adjusted solid lifters - found that method several places on the web - even had the wife helping.

Set any cylinder hot to spec, then let cool. Measure that one cylinder cold and that's your cold settings for the whole engine. Cold is cold - but hot is not hot because the engine cools as you work thru 8 cylinders - and the original method of doing it while running is just plain crazy.

If you need to set a whole engine cold after a rebuild or valve job, add .002 to factory spec for initial start-up. (Cast iron heads and block).

:happy3:
 
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