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318 Running Strange in 75 Cordoba

tjbindy

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6:41 PM
Joined
Dec 30, 2014
Messages
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Location
Indianapolis, IN
Car has 34000 original miles.

Starts and idles very well, very smoothly. Drives well for a little while .... then it starts to act like the timing is off. It loses acceleration, spits and sputters, and eventually quits running. Once the condition starts it is very difficult to keep it running. One time I was able to get it to come out of the condition by keeping the RPMs up until it went away. However; I usually have to let it die then wait about 5 minutes before I can start it up again.

I have noticed that even when running well and above 2000 rpm; I can feel a miss; almost like a fouled plug or bad wire. Have replaced electronic ignition box, wires, plugs, cap and rotor with little change.

Am I looking at timing chain issues, carburetor issues, distributor issues, or something else entirely?
 
I had a similar issue with my 76 Dart when the electronic ignition module got hot started messing up... check the box to make sure its making a good ground.

There could easily be other causes too, I'm sure others will chime in
 
Ground is through the case of the unit definitely for the 4pin box and even likely for the 5pin box.

And agree with Badlite above, could be the coil when it heats up having issues too

Does the electronic ignition box ground through the case or one of the connector pins?
 
Also check the carb as the float can stick. car can start fine then starts to flood after running a bit.
 
My 75 Scamp does the almost the same thing. It doesn't die just runs rough under a load. I haven't messed with it yet.
 
Ive had a coil act this way before also, but i also had a clogged fuel line once that wouldnt allow the bowl to stay full. It run fine until the bowl ran out then it'd sputter and die. it was ok idling but about 1/2mile or so down the road it was over.
 
I had a piece of trash floating around in the fuel system of my dads 318 2 barrel dart do the same thing. I thought it was in the ignition system but was wrong.

Took everything apart cleaned it with chem tool (disassembled carb) put new floats in new fuel filter and lines, blew the new lines out and viola.
 
Yes. The heat cross over is a port in the intake I between the runners. It meets a port in the head which has a route to one of the exhaust ports. The exhaust heat travels up this port warming the intake manifold which helps warm up the engine for winter months.
 
On the engine: Screwdrivers, chisels, coat hangers, vacuum, air gun, hammer.
Off the engine: Screwdrivers, chisels, coat hangers, vacuum,air gun, hammer.
Done 'em both ways, definitely better to take it off, $25 in gaskets.
 
Some of us plug the crossover to keep the intake cooler. Doubt if cleaning it solves your problem unless it is preventing the automatic choke from functioning properly. If the choke is not functioning like it should make sure the choke heater still works if it has one.
 
I would check the easy stuff first. Start with the fuel filter. It could be that easy. Post your findings when its solved.
 
Currently rebuilding the carb. It is very cold here so the progress has been slow. (No heat in my garage and car is sitting outside.) Found lots of sludge in the bowls and on the floats. Also found a thin fiber in one of the venturis and some of the screws were only finger tight. I found a receipt showing that the fuel filter was replaced just a month or so before I bought it.
 
I had problems with my old Cordoba 30 years ago. Turned out to be the Thermoquad (TQ) carburetor with the plastic float bowl. I just replace the whole carburetor with whatever I had on the shelf.
 
I had a similar problem with a car once, and the ignition pick-up in the distributor was going bad. Replaced that, and no problems since.
 
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