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340 engine issues

Sebringcharlie

Active Member
Local time
10:38 PM
Joined
Aug 18, 2013
Messages
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Location
Waterloo, Ontario
So I inherited a very rough 72 satellite Sebring. Moved it from British Columbia to Ontario. Found an awesome restorer who has gone above and beyond to bring the beast back from the dead for me. We sourced doors, glass, fenders, front floor pans, rear quarters, the entire missing interior, and countless other bits and pieces. 2 years ago, i bought a 340 block and x heads at Moparfest. I was told the motor came out of a stock car, but only had a few races on it as they moved to crate engines. It was a great deal, and i set about to purchase the rest of the bits for it. Went to the local speed shop, told them I had a 340 block and x heads, and had them assist with the purchases required to make the engine go.
I am not mechanical. I had a mechanic (heavy equipment) coach me on putting everything together. completed the motor and gave it to the restorer, and he installed it and the tranny (727) and the rest of the mechanicals.
From the get-go, the engine sounded off. The restoration guy, while able to install the mechanicals, is not an engine guy. We had a few hiccups along the way with odd things coming loose (torque converter, rocker bar to name a couple). I decided to take it to the speed shop for a tuning. Talked to my now trusted restoration guy, told him I'd be taking it to see if we could solve some of the quirks.
The speed shop fired it up, and said there was serious issues. He opened the engine up, and the pushrods were rubbing on the heads, said the wrong length rods were installed. Installed shorter ones, no change. Changed lifters that were shot. No change. Took rockers off, found out they weren't mopar original (they came with the x heads). In fact they are completely custom, and the geometry is all wrong. The shop changed the lifters as they were all shot again too. The shop offered to machine the heads to enlarge the rod holes. I couldn't see altering x heads (which I read are very desirable. Told you I was a complete noob), so I opted to switch the rockers out, to have actual mopar rockers to start with. So another set of short rods (its speculated that the heads have been altered anyway) and brand new rockers later, the car still doesnt sound right. The rods are no longer rubbing the heads and appear to be the correct length. Ticking. It's better sounding than when i brought it in, but not 100% right. So they look at the lifters, and they're fried again, but this time when they remove the lifters, they see some kind of bushing in the holes that is preventing the oil from reaching the hydraulic lifters properly. So now they want to pull the engine out, and either drill out the bushings/add holes so the oil gets through, or replace the hydraulic cam and lifters with mechanical/solid. Either way, I'm looking at 1500-2000.00 in labor alone.
I've got a current bill for the rocker/rod diagnosis of about 2000.00, and I'm choking on dropping another 2k on a maybe fix (no guarantee) or the solid cam fix. The solid cam is an issue simply because, I'm not mechanical, adjusting or monitoring valves through the season isn't in my realm of expertise.
I suppose I'm bitching and moaning here. I know restorations aren't cheap. This one has taken two years and almost 3x more money than I had budgeted. And the money I'm dropping on this engine is killing me. So if anyone has any engine related suggestions (please refrain from laughing or telling me to suck it up lol), I'm all ears!
 
If you go with solid you will have to adjust valves periodically. Since you are not mechanically inclined this might not be good for you. You will also need to change the whole rocker arm assembly to go solid. With not knowing history on motor you will be chasing things like this. Might want go with complete tear down and start fresh.
 
That's almost what I'm considering. But I'm still stuck with a block that requires solid cam and lifters. I did just install brand new adjustable rocker assembly this week. Will that have to be changed to accommodate the new cam as well?
On a positive note, I'm learning a lot along the way!
 
I have a solid cam in my 340 duster and once they are adjusted with correct parts, you should not have to adjust them any more than once a year no more than most drive there cars. If I were wanting to go with a HYD. cam I would just try to locate me another block. What you are describing is in the old direct Connection manual to restrict the oil flow to the lifters when racing with a solid cam. Good for what is was meant to do, but hard to reverse.
Best of luck, Matt
 
If your cam has went down, and from the sounds of things if you have had a few set of lifters go down, then I would pull and rebuild the engine or another engine. Some will say just change the cam out, but that's a lot of metal inside an engine that can cause more failure down the road.
Matt
 
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Sounds like an expensive mess that'll snowball, and probably cheaper to buy an engine from a reputable person that has a nice used one.
 
I agree with mmissile. I would sell the engine. List it as a racing engine and someone will pay through the nose for it. Then take the money and get a nce unmodified engine. You'll save a lot of money that way.
 
After consulting several mopar guys, and the builder of the engine, we will have to put solid lifters and cam in the thing, there's really no easy work around. The new adjustable rockers and the new rods I just bought should work with the new cam and lifters.
The Hyd cam that's in it has not failed. The lifters were failing due to the combination of wrong rockers and wrong rods and not enough oil getting in there. A couple sets were trashed during the trial and error of fixing the above issues, and prior to the discovery of the bushings.
While I'm not impressed with the additional costs, hopefully this is the last of it. I've lost 2 months of the season already, I'd just like to enjoy it before its back in the shop in the fall for a posi rear end installation.
If this combination, this last ditch effort doesn't work, I'll be doing exactly as you suggest, and selling it, and building something from scratch.
 
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