360 Budget Ideas?

[kb67mopar]

Thanks. Its a vac secondary carb. Holley 3310. 750 cfm.

I haven't spent much time playing with carbs. The only other carb'd car I owned was an 83 AMC Eagle SX/4 and it had a crappy carter 1 barrel which didn't work right.

So I still have some learning to do with carb function/tuning.

I'd love to pop for a new carb but this should work fine for me for now. I kinda like that its a vac secodary carb so it should provide me with some better fuel economy then that of the double pumper I would imagine.

 

[rumblefish360]

LOL, depends on how much your foot is out of the secondaries. Dp or Vac/secondary, it won't matter.

 

[kb67mopar]

Well with any luck I will start piecing this together here in the near future. I sold the original 273 so there is no return.

So what I have so far Holley 3310 Vac Secondary 4 barrel
Edelbrock performer dual plane intake
1985 360 which I need to pull apart and see what the bores have been machined too and what pistons are in it.

The plan:
Keep the intake and carb, going to go to the mopar electronic ignition (I have two of the stock distributors) But What do you guys recommend for the box chrome, orange??? What are the differences?

I am going to port match the intake and heads but no real bowl work since these heads are rebuilt and I don't want to chance nicking the guides.

If I can't get decent compression out of the combo i have I think I may step up the pistons a bit to get the compression to 9.5 or 10:1.

For the cam I think I will end up calling Comp Cams and see what they recommend for my setup and match the valve springs to that cam.

I am keeping the stock stamped rockers and shaft so nothing special there, staying hydraulic flat tappet so no reason to switch.

And of course I need to do a new oil pump, pick up and car style pan.

 

[Meep-Meep]

If you are not going to do the bowl work then don't waste your time gasket matching the heads.

Don't run too much spring pressure on the stock rockers. Personally I would put some adjustables on it with 3/8" push rods. Even the 273 adjustable rockers are better than the stamped steel.

The 780 might be a bit piggish on gas. I'd trade it in on a Edelbrock 650 for improved street drivability.

 

[72Satellite440]

while your pricing comp cams also do a check on Crower- They will make what you need and Ive heard good things but to each their own-

 

[rumblefish360]

If you are not going to do the bowl work then don't waste your time gasket matching the heads.

Agree. The Performer is a small port window. Gasket matching at this point (Mello build) is more effort vs actual gain. Is it good to do? Yea, but the return is ultra minor.

Don't run too much spring pressure on the stock rockers. Personally I would put some adjustables on it with 3/8" push rods. Even the 273 adjustable rockers are better than the stamped steel.

Agree if the stamped rockers are worn. Do not agree with a 3/8 P-rod. A good P-rod @ 5/16 will be fine.

The 780 might be a bit piggish on gas. I'd trade it in on a Edelbrock 650 for improved street drivability.

A 3310 is 780cfm?

I agree on a Edel.650 for drivability. IMO, use the Thunder AVS carb over the AFB version. The tuneable secondary air door (Spring loaded) will stop the possible flat spot when STOMPING the go pedal.

Also, since this is an iron headed engine, being street bound, go for a 9.5-1 ratio. Should this engine later be used to step up the program in power, going up a 1/2point is easy. Figure the build with a thicker gasket for use.

Like a KB-107 slug and a .055 gasket will keep the compression down a tad closer to a 9.5-1 ratio. (Open chambered 360 heads clock in normally at 72 cc. So you would be real close. The slugs normally sit just below the deck in most unmachined engines.)

 

[kb67mopar]

Well tonight I finally got the engine in the garage and started tearing into it to see what I had. Pulled the intake and valve covers, looks fantastic, clean like brand new. I got the heads off and there checked out the bores, a few of the cylinders have some surface rust which is concerning to me. Its enough I can snag my finger nail on it. Any idea of that can be cleaned up with a hone? This thing has so few miles on it since it was rebuilt (Marshall Engines re-man) it would be a shame to have to bore it again. Bores measure out with my calipers to be 4.060 so my next question, how far can you go on the 360?

So the heads look really good, clean, new seals, new springs, and the rockers and shaft look brand new. The lifter valley is nice and clean, the cam is clean and rust free with no wear on it or the lifters so this thing has very little run time.

Either way it looks like I'll probably be making a trip to the machine shop sometime this winter.

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[rumblefish360]

If you tear it down to a bare block, the cylinders should clean up with a quick hone. .060 is a lot of overbore! That is a .060 overbore. 4 inch is stock.

 

[kb67mopar]

yeah I knew that was .060 over stock. I hope it cleans up well without needing anything additional. Of course this means I need new rings and bearings but that is probably a good thing anyway.

I think while i have it that far apart (after CC'ing the heads) I'll put a set of KB flat top pistons in it to get my compression up a bit. I like your idea of using the thicker head gasket to keep it at about 9.5:1. Then if I decide to go further with the heads (edelbrocks or something aftermarket) I can just go thinner and bump it up.

I'll finish the tear down this week since I have the rest (starting tomorrow) of the week off. Maybe I will even get it to the machine shop for an opinion on the honing.

So I guess at this point I should start referring to it as a 370? :headbang:

 

[rumblefish360]

The KB-107's normally sit in the hole just a little bit. At zero deck and a .039 gasket, as per how KB calculates the math IIRC, it will be 9.8-1. With a .054 gasket, it drops just that little bit.

The numbers I messed with are as followed;

060 over 360 - 4.060, Zero deck slugs with 5cc valve relief. 72 cc heads, typical of J or X heads though it can vary by 4cc. Check yours.
A 4.1 X .054 gasket comes out to 9.56-1 ratio.
A 4.1 X .039 gasket comes out to 9.89-1 ratio.

In just a .015 difference, the drop is .33. Add in a .020 in the hole slug the ratio goes to 9.47. Right where most street performance cams want to be for easy to get pump gas.

Swap on a Edelbrock head and it jumps to 10.41-1, slugs at zero deck come to 10.53, slip in a .039 gasket, it inch's up to 10.94-1. This higher ratio will work with pump gas. Been there, done that and I am currently doing it.

Current combo is a zero deck .030 KB-107 slugged 360 with a RPM head and intake w/ super Comp headers and a Comp 296/.525/110 cam mated to a 4spd and 4.10's in a '73 Cuda. Not yet track tested. Barely street run.

 

[kb67mopar]

Glad to hear a similar combo is under test for me! hows that thing run?

I hope this rust hones out well and i can get the build under way, but have yet to figure out how I am going to pay for my parts.

 

[rumblefish360]

Well, paying for parts require a really dumb er, loving girl friend or a couple of star porno rolls. LOL

Seriously... the engine runs well. I haven't really had the ability to run it wide open down the road for any distance since there's no plates or stickers on the car. I've only had a short amount of room. The 255/60/15 can be turned into a mushy pile on the pavement easy enuff in 3 of 4 gears, that I have had room to do this in. I think 4th will yield little problem in smoking them up. Until I get a better tire.

The tight quench area and aluminum head combo (Big-ish cam doesn't hurt either.) Runs well and doesn't require a lot of initial advance. I have basically just stuck the distributor in @ 34* and then my light broke apart like the Blues Brothers car after the MAD run to Cook county tax office.

At the moment, A Carter 750 AFB is up top. I'd rather a 4 corner idle Holley HP, but, empty pockets hold me to what I have on hand.

Since it just kind of got cold, I haven't done jack.

 

[kb67mopar]

My wife has been pretty good about letting me buy parts. Right now I am just holding back since I have been a bit over budget lately with the floors and all. The torsion bar cross member is what sent it over the edge since that cost me $240 I didn't truly want to spend.

I also have been keeping my eyes open for the other parts I need for a good price so some of this stuff can wait a bit since its obviously not going anywhere in the near future.

I keep looking for the pass side grille surround (don't tell me its on ebay, i refuse ebay) and of course the NV3500 I want to use as my trans. I know its not rated for the 400 lb-ft of torque I'll more then likely have but until I can afford something rated for that I will just have to roast the tires gingerly :iamwithstupid:

 

[rumblefish360]

The 833 can take that power easy, just no overdrive. Passon Performance can fix that. Spendy it is. http://www.passonperformance.com/
Speak with Jamie, he a good fella.

 

[kb67mopar]

Yeah I am thinking i might start looking for the 833 and just go with it.

I tore down the other 360 I had in the shed and that block looks much better but i can tell it has been apart before. I couldn't get a good reading on the bore diameter so i will have to get down to the machine shop in the near future to get an opinion on these blocks. I think I am going to go with the '79 block since the cylinders seem closer to a standard bore and there is no damage from a rod like the '85 block.

I now have to find out what I'd be looking at for machining costs....I think I need a second job!

 

[67 coronet]

the 750 is a bit big for a street eng,just look for the vac dash pot on the pass side of the carb hooked to the secondarys.you can make it work fine if its vac secondary,double pump would be a bit much for a street eng.(remember factory carbs are spread bore,and therefore run on much smaller pimaries.that is what allows them to run a small eng on a huge carb.)
port or gasket matching is a good idea,just make sure you dont do anything to the intake side untill you have the heads bolted in place and check the intake alignment.previous head work can throw this way off.
as far as a cam,just go by what the vendor describes for your set up.it is very hard to make a part#choice,luckily you are running a std trans,so no need to match torq conv.
run the cheep headders if money is an issue.it is well worth the $200 plus savings for a bit of extra work.
any good elec ignition will work for a street motor,so again go with the cheep stuff.
take your time getting your parts and overall look for deals,maybe even some used stuff will save you big money.
once you get it together,the biggest thing will be dialling in that holley carb.everything is adjustable,and most of the time all of it needs some kind of adjustment.(accl pmp ramp,vac sec springs,jets,power valves etc.)
take your time,do some reserch on line.your labor can save huge dollars in the end.:icon_mrgreen:

 

[PoppaSmurf]

kb67...heres my recommendation...before you do anything, have an understanding of the mods your going to make...theres alot that CAN be done.. but with a select few pieces your goal is not that far outta reach...spend the 50 or so bucks an find a Mopar "Engines Book" p/n p5249704 and sit down figure out how you want to go about it...heads, valves,pocket porting, 3 and 5 angle valve cuts, cam assemblies,carbs and intakes...its all there...with that, you have a good working knowledge of how to get there...you'll find the 360 is GREAT engine..I've been running them for 30 years now!!! cui to cui one of the BEST made !

 

[kb67mopar]

well comparing my options I have decided to go with a late model 5.7 hemi. A complete swap setup with computer, harness', accessories is $2500 shipped to my door. Computer tuning over at hotwire auto is $250 and I will modify the wiring harness myself. I will still have to buy an oil pan and figure out my transmission so I know it will cost me more the running the 360. I just can't say know the reliability, fuel economy, and cool factor of being able to put a hemi badge on it.

I wanted to say thanks to all of you who offered me advice on the 360. no doubt a great engine just not the best option for my car at this point. That being said anybody interested check out the for sale section, both blocks, intake, carb, distributors, everything I have from two complete engines is all up for sale in one lot if anybody is interested.

 

[rumblefish360]

The new HEMI is a great option and a excellent idea no to mention a great price. Wish they were cheap like that here. J-yards think they have a brand new 426 on there hands around here.

 

[kb67mopar]

The new HEMI is a great option and a excellent idea no to mention a great price. Wish they were cheap like that here. J-yards think they have a brand new 426 on there hands around here.

Yeah they definetely are pricey in certain spots. This is actually through knox auto out of knoxville TN. A buddy of mine recommended them and they definitely came back with a good price.

That price was for an 08 with 52k on it with all accesories, harness and computer.