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360 engine swap with 318 trans problem

that sucks...might wanna go to plan b the rv camper trans..but..
youll need a driveshaft made if you go to 727
sooo..its your call.
 
that sucks...might wanna go to plan b the rv camper trans..but..
youll need a driveshaft made if you go to 727
sooo..its your call.
Yeah that really puts a damper on my situation, ill figure something out soon enough, thanks for all the advice i really appreciate it
 
The 904 is fine.. Until you start making serious power, and then it can be modified to live... Lotta racers scrap their 727 internals & use 904 internals cause the 904 uses less horsepower...
 
The 904 is fine.. Until you start making serious power, and then it can be modified to live... Lotta racers scrap their 727 internals & use 904 internals cause the 904 uses less horsepower...
Okay, Ive been readin something about a 904 tv kick down cable that is required for all 904 trans, otherwise its like pulling out in 3rd gear and will burn up a trans in no time. Its hooked up to the carb, look like the throttle cable but goes down to the trans, any ideas on this? I dont have one fyi
 
Yup, 727 & 904 both need a kick down/TV pressure signal.. On Mopars it's a mechanical linkage, cables are either very late model or aftermarket....
 
Yup, 727 & 904 both need a kick down/TV pressure signal.. On Mopars it's a mechanical linkage, cables are either very late model or aftermarket....
okay i gotcha, seems like that would really be messing up my system without one and causing all that mishap with the added converter problem too you think? I guess ill find out
 
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The 904 is fine.. Until you start making serious power, and then it can be modified to live... Lotta racers scrap their 727 internals & use 904 internals cause the 904 uses less horsepower...

Not many racers scrap the 727 internals for the lite 904 stuff. Only the ones that need that last .05 ET & can live with the durability issue & high cost of the special parts. Doesn't apply with OP.
904's are good for low power low torque, a 360 is into the 727 area. THE CORRECT EXTERNAL BALANCE CONVERTER OR SPECIAL FLEX PLATE IS REQUIRED. Not sure what OP means by like brakes locked up, as stated improper seating of the converter will break the front pump lugs which = no band or clutch apply and no movement.
 
Not many racers scrap the 727 internals for the lite 904 stuff. Only the ones that need that last .05 ET & can live with the durability issue & high cost of the special parts. Doesn't apply with OP.
904's are good for low power low torque, a 360 is into the 727 area. THE CORRECT EXTERNAL BALANCE CONVERTER OR SPECIAL FLEX PLATE IS REQUIRED. Not sure what OP means by like brakes locked up, as stated improper seating of the converter will break the front pump lugs which = no band or clutch apply and no movement.
Yeah it had only moved a short bit in reverse and when put in drive it moved inches with the pedal down farther than should need until it had started smoking. Maybe that clears up how i explained the feeling
 
That flex plate would be good. You still need to fix whats broke. Could be something as simple as the shifter linkage not properly set so the valve body which controls the trans isn't in gear or it's the broken pump lugs, which means a complete trans rebuild. Not sure about smoking though, overfilled fluid coming out the front pump breather & getting on exhaust??
 
That flex plate would be good. You still need to fix whats broke. Could be something as simple as the shifter linkage not properly set so the valve body which controls the trans isn't in gear or it's the broken pump lugs, which means a complete trans rebuild. Not sure about smoking though, overfilled fluid coming out the front pump breather & getting on exhaust??
Okay, i have a feeling it may be the pump lugs sadly, thanks for the info
 
That flex plate would be good. You still need to fix whats broke. Could be something as simple as the shifter linkage not properly set so the valve body which controls the trans isn't in gear or it's the broken pump lugs, which means a complete trans rebuild. Not sure about smoking though, overfilled fluid coming out the front pump breather & getting on exhaust??
I got one more question about what might be my problem aside from the type of torque converter and it not being set all the way properly, i am pretty positive it not being set properly is my issue. BUT I only had the car running in gear for less than 3 mins. and about 10-20 sec of that was when the trans started smoking, (guessing fluid was just burning up as you said) Do you think the pump lugs could be broken in that small of a time frame? It was the FIRST time ever putting it in gear with the rear tires not on jacks. Just want to know what the possibility of those pump lugs condition could be
 
I have a 318 b-body trans that came with my 318 originally until i had it swapped for a 1974 360 engine, something is VERY wrong. Smoke was coming out of my trans fluid dipstick after putting it in gear

Are you sure it was coming out of the dipstick & not just off the exhaust? Oil on the exhaust pipes/manifolds will smoke allot as it burns off, usually in the first 5-10 minutes after starting an engine?

Diagnosing cars over the internet is tough.... LOL..
 
Are you sure it was coming out of the dipstick & not just off the exhaust? Oil on the exhaust pipes/manifolds will smoke allot as it burns off, usually in the first 5-10 minutes after starting an engine?

Diagnosing cars over the internet is tough.... LOL..
Honestly might have been burning on the exhaust, I know right lol its tough. Do you think the pump lugs as stated above may be damaged or anything else for that matter even after such a short run?
 
First, watch this video...
Now you know more about kick down linkage... Oh, and you feel great pain having endured an old Chrysler technical training film... I know I always did.. LOL..

Don't worry about the details, if you have a zip tie perfect, otherwise use wire, pull the linkage fully rearward so you have max TV pressure & see if the car takes off better..

If your up for a little under car work unbolt the torque convertor from the flex plate, four bolts... One is offset so it should only go together one way, if one bolt hole doesn't line up it's wrong... But actually that comes later.. For now mark the torque convertor to flex plate indexing & remove all four bolts... To get to them you remove the access cover & you use a breaker bar with a 1 1/4" socket to turn the engine over....

Once all four bolts are removed the torque convertor should spin freely & actually it should be possible the push the torque convertor back into the trans 1/8-1/4"...
If it binds the trans is coming out... If it doesn't bind chances are the trans is fine & your looking elsewhere...
 
First, watch this video...
Now you know more about kick down linkage... Oh, and you feel great pain having endured an old Chrysler technical training film... I know I always did.. LOL..

Don't worry about the details, if you have a zip tie perfect, otherwise use wire, pull the linkage fully rearward so you have max TV pressure & see if the car takes off better..

If your up for a little under car work unbolt the torque convertor from the flex plate, four bolts... One is offset so it should only go together one way, if one bolt hole doesn't line up it's wrong... But actually that comes later.. For now mark the torque convertor to flex plate indexing & remove all four bolts... To get to them you remove the access cover & you use a breaker bar with a 1 1/4" socket to turn the engine over....

Once all four bolts are removed the torque convertor should spin freely & actually it should be possible the push the torque convertor back into the trans 1/8-1/4"...
If it binds the trans is coming out... If it doesn't bind chances are the trans is fine & your looking elsewhere...

This was just what i was looking for and man what a video too, this should really get the ball rolling for me, thanks for all the help, for now ill try to update on this thread soon. :thumbsup:
 
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