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360 to 408

bm73charger

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Just bought a 360 la out of a 1990 d150. Had it machined .030. Bought a stroker kit and had it internally balanced from the manufacturer.

I'm looking into heads next. Id like to get something that had decent performance but wont break the bank. i have a budget of around $1500 for a set give or take. Does anyone have any suggestions?

I'm also looking to get roller rockers but having a hard time finding a set that doesn't cost an arm and a leg.

Has anyone ever hooked up a 360/408 to a 904 trans? It will probably be swapped in the future. But to get it running and driving I am keeping it this way for now. Will I need any sort of special hookups to make it work, torque converter, balancer on the flex plate, do i still need a harmonic dampener on front of engine even though it is internally balanced?

If you cant tell this is my first engine build and first engine swap. Id like to make decent power but nothing insane, Id only be going to cars and coffee events and cruise nights in it and random driving not really track stuff, just want enough power to have some fun with. Id really like to have it reliable as possible. Any help is much appreciated. I try to log in whenever i can and reply to any questions as well.

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In that price range = I prefer the Edelbrock Budget Heads.
IN a street drive car I prefer the Stainless rockers and there
are many set in the $300. range. They are not great for a race
engine but fine for your use.

Just my .02 =For Free
 
In that price range = I prefer the Edelbrock Budget Heads.
IN a street drive car I prefer the Stainless rockers and there
are many set in the $300. range. They are not great for a race
engine but fine for your use.

Just my .02 =For Free
Stainless rockers as in roller rockers or stamped normal rockers? I cant seem to find rollers for under $500. I saw on jeggs speedmaster makes some decent aluminum heads for about 1200, but didnt know if it was worth it if im not racing. Didnt know if there was a better performing iron ones for cheaper if im not too worried about weight reduction.
 
R/T Dakota/Durango heads?
i dont have any heads at all. I need to get some. i was looking at aluminum. But i didnt know if i could get more performance for the same money if i went with iron.
 
i dont have any heads at all. I need to get some. i was looking at aluminum. But i didnt know if i could get more performance for the same money if i went with iron.
I'm not sure they're more performance, but can be had for a song every once and a while. Just have to remember it's a magnum head so... Intake bolt pattern.
 
You can build a 904 to be really stout. The parts can get expensive depending on how much power you want it to handle. But it's lighter, takes less power and front drum is safer then a stock 727.
 
I'd also suggest:
a. mild Hyd Roller
b. non alum bushed rockers
c. a low end simple efi set-up
d. a windage tray
e. if the car is big/heavy and will see reg street use, not sure I see the benefit here instead of a 727
 
I'd also suggest:
a. mild Hyd Roller
b. non alum bushed rockers
c. a low end simple efi set-up
d. a windage tray
e. if the car is big/heavy and will see reg street use, not sure I see the benefit here instead of a 727
i want to go roller cam anyways just because the break in on a flat tappet seems a bit intimidating. plus id assume theyre more sturdy/ longer lasting. It will get weekend warrior level use and i baby it most of the time. It currently has the absolute turdiest of turd 318s in it. so i want something with more pep. but im not going to be racing it. maybe a few burnouts but nothing crazy. a 727 is in the plans i think. but thats down the road. im sticking with carbed though. i have like 60 carbs 650cfm carbs laying around that im going to use because its free. and free is my favorite flavor.
 
Pretty sure a 1990 would have been a roller cam engine originally.
I'm not a small block guy but I think the lifter bores/ casting are taller than the older la engines to support the roller lifters.
Hopefully someone more knowledgeable than me on small blocks can chime in.
 
I believe you are correct, and i don't even know if a downgrade is even possible in in
that block regrading cam choice. Others can advise.
 
i want to go roller cam anyways just because the break in on a flat tappet seems a bit intimidating. plus id assume theyre more sturdy/ longer lasting. It will get weekend warrior level use and i baby it most of the time. It currently has the absolute turdiest of turd 318s in it. so i want something with more pep. but im not going to be racing it. maybe a few burnouts but nothing crazy. a 727 is in the plans i think. but thats down the road. im sticking with carbed though. i have like 60 carbs 650cfm carbs laying around that im going to use because its free. and free is my favorite flavor.
Think it’s been a dozen or so years ago, when I was just getting going on restoring my car and I found a guy selling 340s on ebag.
It happened that the guy lived in the same town as mine and I went by his house to talk. He was telling me that the 340 blocks were getting more expensive and he told me he had a 360 in really good shape. He told me that the bang for the buck on this motor was probably what I wanted. He had a set of heads for the 360. I asked him if my 318 heads would work. He told me that yes they would, maybe even get a little more out of it after he ported them. So that’s what we did, solid lifters, slightly aggressive cam, Thermoquad and he threw in a set of headers. I had my 904 tranny rebuilt with a shift kit. The motor is all I need and I only really got on it one time and I squished a motor mount. I’m not by any means an expert on this, but I know it works for me. Maybe someone will chime in on this.
 
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