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360 to 408

Just some observations:
1) That is an early LA block and will require pushrods open for oil from the lifters for Magnum heads as Magnum engines don't thru the block deck
2) The lifters will require the link to prevent rotating in the bore
3) A retro fit roller cam will need to be used for the OE timing set, or a roller timing set for a regular roller cam (the cam gear will be different). Others can comment as to teh application.
4) I am doing a '94 roller 318 and the cam woodruff key is shorter that the regular one, ~5/8" x 3/16" Dealer purchase might be easier
can you provide your basis for the observation please? from what i understand from the seller it is a late la block (1990 from a d150) like just before they went to magnum. and from what i understand la and magnum are not interchangeable.
 
can you provide your basis for the observation please? from what i understand from the seller it is a late la block (1990 from a d150) like just before they went to magnum. and from what i understand la and magnum are not interchangeable.
im not saying your wrong im saying that i could be wrong/misinformed and would like to be able to confirm.
 
The block deck has the oil galley hole from the cam making it a LA block.
 
The block deck has the oil galley hole from the cam making it a LA block.
and because it is the LA style wouldnt that mean that it oils through the rocker shaft and not the pushrods? i thought the la oiled through rocker shaft and magnum oiled through pushrods
 
can you provide your basis for the observation please? from what i understand from the seller it is a late la block (1990 from a d150) like just before they went to magnum. and from what i understand la and magnum are not interchangeable.
That block is a 85-93 LA ROLLER.... it's pretty much as good as it gets... can run a roller cam pretty inexpensively in it and it has the top end oiling holes like a normal LA
 
The block deck has the oil galley hole from the cam making it a LA block.
i have the pushrods and cams that originally came out of it at the house. ill have to check them when i get home.
 
That block is a 85-93 LA ROLLER.... it's pretty much as good as it gets... can run a roller cam pretty inexpensively in it and it has the top end oiling holes like a normal LA
so just to be clear this would oil through the rocker shafts correct? this is the assumption i have been operating under from the start. not that it makes a huge difference yet because i havent started getting everything yet but it will make a difference soon.
 
so just to be clear this would oil through the rocker shafts correct? this is the assumption i have been operating under from the start. not that it makes a huge difference yet because i havent started getting everything yet but it will make a difference soon.
Yes.. will oil through the shaft, i have the 318 version of that block in my car with trickflows and harland sharp shaft rockers...

BTW.. don't be afraid of oil through pushrod.. it works great especially for a normal driver car...
 
This is the listing i bought from and the pictures. has block castings if anyone cares.

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This is you top end oiling hole right above the headbolt, the hold goes down to the cam journal.. Take a flashlight and make sure you can see light all the way through.. guys miss the holes on that bearing A LOT.... the second circle should have the same hold on the other side...

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**** my life.. you got that for $50?! I would pay 500..... in my area i can buy a complete running 440 for less than a junk 360..

The factory roller lifters aren't bad and save a TON of money if you are staying roller cam.. that's what i used i mine.
 
ALSO.. just FYI... if you get better pistons (that aren't in the hole .50-.100) and decent heads you can skip the 408.... and get it balanced for the new stuff... a 360 crank is damn strong.. DVWs son made stupid power with his for years and it held up fine... would save more money... Which you can put into good heads...
 
This is you top end oiling hole right above the headbolt, the hold goes down to the cam journal.. Take a flashlight and make sure you can see light all the way through.. guys miss the holes on that bearing A LOT.... the second circle should have the same hold on the other side...

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awsome that is great information. thank you alot for that.
 
Last thing btw... don't go insane with a cam.. you will have to live with it.. i overcammed and it's ok but too much cam gets annoying quick..
 
**** my life.. you got that for $50?! I would pay 500..... in my area i can buy a complete running 440 for less than a junk 360..

The factory roller lifters aren't bad and save a TON of money if you are staying roller cam.. that's what i used i mine.
Yes i was originally looking for a gen 3 hemi to put in. wasnt really in the market to start a build or anything just browsing. i found that and decided that for 50 even if it turned out to be scrap it was worth it on the possibility that it was a good block. i do still have the factory rollers. i never thought about this though. thanks for the idea.
 
Yes i was originally looking for a gen 3 hemi to put in. wasnt really in the market to start a build or anything just browsing. i found that and decided that for 50 even if it turned out to be scrap it was worth it on the possibility that it was a good block. i do still have the factory rollers. i never thought about this though. thanks for the idea.

Yeah you got an insane deal.. i paid $300 for my 318 just to use the bottom end (didn't rebuild, threw on the top end and plan to build a different shortblock later) for $50 is a smokin deal and that's the block i been hunting for :)
 
ALSO.. just FYI... if you get better pistons (that aren't in the hole .50-.100) and decent heads you can skip the 408.... and get it balanced for the new stuff... a 360 crank is damn strong.. DVWs son made stupid power with his for years and it held up fine... would save more money... Which you can put into good heads...
yeah i already bought a whole kit with an eagle crank and mahle pistons. the crank that came with the engine was all scored up. thats why i decided to go stroker becuase if i needed machine work on the crank or needed the crank then i might as well have a bit of fun with it as well. here is the link for the kit if your interested.

Eagle 20502 SB Chrysler 360/408 Street Strip Rotating Assembly 10.0 Mahle Dish Pistons
 
Last thing btw... don't go insane with a cam.. you will have to live with it.. i overcammed and it's ok but too much cam gets annoying quick..
im looking for a mild thumper. dont really need alot of performance from it just need it to sound good hahaha. again its going to be a parking lot princess. just needs to be big an scary enough that the bullys stay away =)
 
Yeah you got an insane deal.. i paid $300 for my 318 just to use the bottom end (didn't rebuild, threw on the top end and plan to build a different shortblock later) for $50 is a smokin deal and that's the block i been hunting for :)
yes the plan is when the 408 goes in ill know more and the 318 that comes out will get built for a spare
 
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