383 Engine Rebuild

[Go Fly]

Pulling a 383 apart and thinking going with a 440 source 438 stroker kit for my 68 Superbee project.
The block casting is 2468130-9 1967 date code and heads 2406516.
Is this a good block to invest in?
The heads should go? Look for ??? Kind of want to stick with a 383.

 

[dvw]

I wouldn't use those heads. Be easier to either get other heads or buy a 400. Looks identical, larger 4.340"vs 4.250" bore , easier to find pistons, factory heads are better than what you have. Takes a good bit of grinding to clear the counter weights on the stroker crank on either one.
Doug

 

[1967coronet440]

Pulling a 383 apart and thinking going with a 440 source 438 stroker kit for my 68 Superbee project.
The block casting is 2468130-9 1967 date code and heads 2406516.
Is this a good block to invest in?
The heads should go? Look for ??? Kind of want to stick with a 383.

What are your goals for the motor? 500hp, 600hp, mild street motor?

 

[Go Fly]

A mild street motor in the 400ish HP range.

 

[1967coronet440]

A mild street motor in the 400ish HP range.

From what I see this motor is good for 325hp from the factory with 10:1 compression. No need for a stroker kit if you're looking for 400 hp, find some 906 heads, or you can go aluminum heads like an eddy performer rpm since you won't be needing to spend the money on a stroker kit. Mild cam, comp makes some really nice mopar specific grind cams, dual plane intake with an 850 on top that'll put you over 400 hp easy.

Maybe someone else will chime in with more info.

 

[mopar 3 B]

Pulling a 383 apart and thinking going with a 440 source 438 stroker kit for my 68 Superbee project.
The block casting is 2468130-9 1967 date code and heads 2406516.
Is this a good block to invest in?
The heads should go? Look for ??? Kind of want to stick with a 383.

Kind of want to stick with a 383 and the first thing you want to do is stick a stroker crank in it. Blasphamy
If you really want a heavy long stroke rotating assembly go find a 440 and have it over with.

 

[Go Fly]

Thought about that, seems mostly RV engines out there that are available or just quesionable.

 

[IQ52]

A mild street motor in the 400ish HP range.

Probably a lot of hot 383 engines in the 400 HP range. I don't believe that a "mild street" 383 is going into the 400 HP range. It can be done but it is going to take some '****-oh-dear' aftermarket cylinder heads, intake manifold, a custom camshaft, rings and pistons at the right compression ratio.

Go with the stroker kit or a 440 and some cylinder heads and intake manifold.. Remember that the factory HP 440 was rated at 375 HP and the 6-BBL/6-Pack engine was rated at 390 HP.

It is your engine. If you want a stroker kit in it, do it!

 

[Challenger340]

We've done it before with those parts on a .030 over 383 without going Stroker, but as mentioned it requires some Head work in the old Iron's, and if using the stock low-pop rebuilder Cast Pistons also requires Block Milling to get some wind in it.
Best is to buy better Pistons now available, ie from KB or Forged from Diamond.
This one was stock cast pistons(Block Milled), Iron Heads with work but still 2.08/1.74 stock Valves(shoot for 235 to 240 cfm @ .500" Lift, and a Comp Cams 274H Flat Tappet.
The usual rebuilding processes are prudent, ie: Balancing, ARP Rod Bolts, etc., etc
Here is the Dyno Sheet, 430 HP and 444 Ft/Lbs Torque

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[IQ52]

See, that's a good build. It's more cam and less cylinder head than I was planning for a mild 383. None the less, still a good build.

 

[moper]

The difference in a stroker vs 383 is the power curves. A 400hp 383 is not difficult - but you have to take certain steps as IQ said: good machining, custom pistons or serious blueprinting work with any of the aftermarket pistons, decent head work (porting NOT required, but all properly redone iron or aftermarket aluminum is), and ultimately it will make the power at a higher rpm, in addition to a higher rpm for peak torque. A longer stroke in the same block, with the same attention to parts and machining will make more horsepower, and more torque, at a lower rpm. So if you have a street car with cruising gears, it will feel much more responsive as a longer stroke in your typical driving situations. It's expensive to build a 383 to make good power. Mostly because of the pistons.

 

[Go Fly]

Would a 400 be an upgrade and give more flexibility than the 383?

I have a line on one.

Thanks

 

[1967coronet440]

Would a 400 be an upgrade and give more flexibility than the 383?

I have a line on one.

Thanks

Seems I've read a lot about a 400 with a 440 crank.. makes it a 452 I believe.. is one of the better set ups because of the deckheight of the 400 matches up well with the stroke of the 440 crank

 

[junkyard junky]

I think the guys from Roadkill had a rebuilt 383 in a duster. Made 500hp after they put aluminum heads on it. The specs on the engine were in a magazine a couple of months back.

 

[mopar 3 B]

If willing to spend lots of money on machine work cast parts will get you there also.

 

[Go Fly]

Is this in regards to the 400?

Thanks

 

[moper]

The 400 is cheaper in many cases because the pistons used in strokers are the same for 440s and 400s. The 383 versions have less options. If you have a 400 that you know is good, it's a good option. If you have to buy it, clean it, and mag it just to see if it's usable - IMO I'd use the 383 that only needs cleaning. The savings in parts would be outspent in determining if the 400s usable at that point.

 

[Challenger340]

The only downside that I can see to the Stroker route, BIGGER is also better IMO for a number of reasons, is most Customer's invariably seeking out the "cheapest" way possible to doing so, which inevitably leads into the many LABOR pitfalls to their ultimate happiness with the final product ?
This could go on forever, but just as one example regarding to the 1.31" to 1.34" Compression Distance piston availability's common with many Mopar B & RB Stroker combo's, no matter 4032 or 2618 alloys, even the Piston to Wall clearances and fitting can be performed poorly, or sans a T/Plate resulting in audible piston "Slap" when running?
Some generic napa store/ farm implement Machine Shops with your Stroker Kit should come to mind here ?
just say'in....
I LOVE strokers too, we do lots of them ! And for Guys racing everywhere from Vegas to Pomona to Brainerd MN
But they ain't for everybody, and don't 'fit' everyone's budget, especially those that realize from the get go they can never exceed the speed of their wallet ?
Nothing wrong with building an 'El Cheapo wee-83 even with good LABOR applied, money spent right(I can think of a few really good ones on here like IQ52), that can provide a very FUN ride with a usable rpm range.(apologies for the shameless plug Jim)
Hire a good builder FIRST ! apply the best parts you can afford second within their advice/recommendation.
That's why I posted the .030 over 383 Sheet as an example ?
That's about as cheap as it gets on a budget !
Just me.... but I would rather have a very well built lesser Engine, than a poorly built expensive one any day. It hurts less in the long run, and ultimately easier on your wallet.

just my thoughts, no wars wanted.

 

[Go Fly]

Gang,

Thanks for all of the advice and feedback. Going with a stroker kit for the 383 and having built by a high end Mopar shop in Milwaukee.