383 engine won’t start

[1967bperko]

We have spark ,fuel engine cranks but doesn’t start ,firing order is correct , the engine ran before I had a fuel problem,there’s spark at the coil and plugs.I didn’t touch the timing distributor is in the same position as before when the car was running.Not what my next move should be .

 

[twecomm]

Are you indeed getting fuel flow into the carb bowls ? If a mechanical fuel pump, could be a worn fuel pump push rod.. Have you tried pouring a very small splash of gas directly into into the primary of the carb ? If you do that, should start or at least make an attempt to start with that splash of gas. My 383 takes a lot of cranking to start when it sits for a few days as takes a while to pump gas to the carb. After driving, engine heat will cause evaporation of gas from the carb.

 

[turbine68rt]

Is the choke fully closed when engine is cold?

 

[WileE]

Not what my next move should be .

Tell us what you did in between the time the engine ran well, and now.

 

[bolson6333]

what was the fuel problem that caused it to quit running?Too much or not enough? If too much could have fouled plugs.

 

[Don Frelier]

How long ago did it run?

What do the plugs look like?
Wet?

Color of spark is it blue/white?
Not yellow/orange

Put the balancer at TDC and note rotor position relative to #1 cap tower. Should be almost past it.
If not the chain may have jumped.
( If it's pointed at #6 go one more revolution)

 

[ackpht]

Give it a shot of starting fluid down the carb and turn the key and see what it does. If it runs for a few seconds then it's a fuel problem. If it doesn't kick over it's an ignition problem.

 

[1967bperko]

Tell us what you did in between the time the engine ran well, and now.

I replaced the fuel pump first thinking that was the issue because it seemed not get fuel up hills.But that didn’t take care of that issue.The tank,all fuel lines filter are new as well.Tested the new fuel pump while it was on the engine and it barely got a pound of pressure. I pulled the new fuel pump and checked the fuel pump push rod,it was wore down about a quarter of an inch,that was the not getting fuel issue.So I got a good used fuel pump pushrod and put a lot of cam lube on it and put everything back together. The fuel issue was fixed,so I rebuilt the carter afb 4barrel ,I put in,new points, condenser ,rotor, distributor cap ,coil and a new ballast resistor,and vacuum advance. I got fuel and spark everywhere I should be it won’t start, and I didn’t more the distributor from before when it was running.‍

 

[R/T Boy 67]

This will sound stupid, but check the position of the new rotor's locating notch with the old one.

 

[1967bperko]

Its were it should be ,thanks .

 

[66Newport]

You introduced many new parts into the equation which may be the cause of this issue. I never trust new parts. I have been burned too many times. You may want to use process of elimination to see if that changes anything. Per post #6, what do the plugs look like? Are you getting a sputter out of it? Why did you replace the vac advance? There was a lot of "touching" here. I think you either have a bad part or you made an error somewhere along the line replacing those parts.

 

[khryslerkid]

Yep, pull some plugs and see if they're wet.

 

[1967coronet]

You say you have fuel.
I'm going to figure your looking at a good pump shot out of the nozzles of that afb.
So your down to spark. Is your dwell set between 28 to 32 degrees?
New condenser is hooked up.
Take one of the plugs out , put the plug wire back on and ground the plug to the exhaust manifold ect.
Kill the shop lights, have someone crank the engine that spark should be a big blue spark.
Like mentioned before if it's weak and yellow look back at the distributor work.
I agree with the others , with the fuel problems I would replace the plugs.
If your just useing a feeler gauge on the points dbl check your work.
Crazy little things can mess with you.
Dirty/ greasy feeler gauge, not being on top of the dist. lobe. Loose plate screw. Ect.
Like posted, a little fuel primed down the carb throat will take the carb and fuel pump out of the picture for testing.
If you never pulled the distributor did you double ck the wire order ?

 

[1967bperko]

You introduced many new parts into the equation which may be the cause of this issue. I never trust new parts. I have been burned too many times. You may want to use process of elimination to see if that changes anything. Per post #6, what do the plugs look like? Are you getting a sputter out of it? Why did you replace the vac advance? There was a lot of "touching" here. I think you either have a bad part or you made an error somewhere along the line replacing those parts.

 

[1967bperko]

I agree with the possibility of one of the parts I changed being bad . I replaced the vacuum advance because was bad .The points actually had a spur on them that looked like a tiny icycle. I should have replaced one part at a time,and tried to start the car after changing each part . I have to admit I messed up on that for sure. I’m going to keep at it with the help of some good Mopar friends and the forums ideas.Thanks

 

[1967bperko]

I agree with the possibility of one of the parts I changed being bad . I replaced the vacuum advance because was bad .The points actually had a spur on them that looked like a tiny icycle. I should have replaced one part at a time,and tried to start the car after changing each part . I have to admit I messed up on that for sure. I’m going to keep at it with the help of some good Mopar friends and the forums ideas.Thanks

We found that the guy that rebuilt the engine put the intermediate shaft in wrong and the rotor was pointing one wire off on the distributor cap,we took care of that issue and the car is running.Thanks for all your input!

 

[moparwacko]

Moscow, or Mt. Cobb?

 

[turbine68rt]

Post 9 good call.

 

[440 4 speed]

Post 9 good call.

That’s those Canuck’s for you!

 

[Don Frelier]

Post 9 good call.

#6 would have pointed out the problem