383 engines

[Phantom]

Thanks for the help and info to all members

 

[miller]

HP vs non???

A couple things missed. Though all you need to understand is the differences are in the parts used for the build.

FYI, just in case you don't know, the 383 is a 'low' block, but one of the best motors you can deal with.

Guts of a non are usually cast crank (though the 67 might be standard with a forged), cam, pistons, rods, heads, intake, exhaust manifolds, and so on.
The main parts said above also make the dif for an HP build, always with a forged crank. Compression is set by the particular parts used, and how it's glued together.

 

[roadrunnerh]

All 383 B motors had a steel crank except in 2Bbl versions in it's last year of production, 1971.

 

[BigHemi]

After looking at your picture, I believe your 383 has the 516 casting closed chamber heads. Being that it is a '67 model 383, those would be right for that motor. The better 915 heads were on the 440 only in 1967 as far as I know.
The 516 head is closed chamber, which is good...especially for a 383 since they are pain to get decent compression on w/ the limited available replacement pistons. The downside is the ports are probably the worst flowing of any of the factory heads and they have the small 1.60" exhaust valve.
You can install big valves and do some minor port work that will really wake them up, but for the money involved I'd seriously consider a set of aftermarket aluminum heads for your buildup.

 

[5.7 hemi]

Stroke that 383 to a 496 and you'll have plenty of power!!

 

[5.7 hemi]

x2!

 

[Yatzee]

What exactly did you have in mind for an engine anyway. 383's done right will wind up like a bitch, can pull really strong and aren't in the least bit over bloated with weight. They are really a small big block and have the best of both worlds because of their "square" stroke and bore so to say. Nice to have the stroke a little less than the bore.

 

[monaco66coupe]

I agree with yatzee, and prefer the standard bore. But I like the original non modified cars of the era.IMO

 

[mopar 3 B]

All 383 B motors had a steel crank except in 2Bbl versions in it's last year of production, 1971.

Very correct all B engines before 71 had steel cranks ( 361 & 383 ) regardless of carburetion.

 

[KarNut46]

roudabush: All info you rec'd is good info. In 71 compression started dropping considerably and was last year for the 383. On compression (in PSI) vs. C-R: Keep in mind that CR is a mathematical ratio between a cylinders total volume (including comb chamber) at BDC divided by the cylinders total volume at TDC. Even if the piston rings were removed you'd still have the same CR even tho the comp would be 0 PSI. To properly check the comp the eng needs to be warmed up. best to remove all plugs (eng will crank easier). Hold throttle full open when cranking. 67 down heads were closed chamber, 68 up used what was a 440 HP head and ex manifold. 383 a good engine, steel crank and strong block. Best info I have on the mfg. process is that the blocks came down the assy line and were stamped as an HP engine after the innerds were installed (pistons, cam). Once designated as an HP then the heads and ex manifolds went on. Final thought, over the years a lot of parts get interchanged. Casting #s a good way to ID parts.

 

[khryslerkid]

Stroke that 383 to a 496 and you'll have plenty of power!!

X2 oh you already did! X3

I had a '64 383. Closed chambered heads, mild cam and headers. Wow that thing was bad for what I had in it!
Good luck with your build...

Ps Make sure your throttle plate is open when doing the compression test. A closed carb will give you a false reading!

 

[monaco66coupe]

Ignore the lack of HP stamps. Roadrunners and superbees were stamped HP. Charger and Satellite weren't, even though they were Titled H code cars. 335hp for the former, 330 for the latter.