383 hard to start when warm

[lorny]

383 starts good cold
starts ok when i gas up (shut off maybe 4-5 minutes) temp gauge is normal at 180*
but if it sits 10 minutes plus it cranks maybe 30-40 seconds with peddle to the floor before it starts
i,ve insolated fuel line with tin foil and put a cool carb poly gasket ...
hopefully i can figure this out before i burn starter

 

[70bigblockdodge]

My son's car had a issue like this, and I had the same issue when the carburetor was on my car. After it is shut off for more than the few minutes the pressurized fuel from pump to carburetor would expand (heat) and would cause it to force past needle and dribbling into the manifold. This would continue until everything starts to cool down. We ended up using a filter with the return line on it to bleed off the pressure back to the tank after car is shut off.

 

[davek]

Question- have you tried to start it when warm without giving it gas?

 

[Rusty knuckles]

I'm guessing the fuel is boiling out the carb. The cranking is getting it pumped back up.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Phenolic spacer under the carb might help. But then again this new fuel sucks *** and evaporates in front of your eyes.

 

[khryslerkid]

^^^^^^ What I'm using on my 440 ^^^^^
No problems restarting.

 

[turbine68rt]

Are you sure your fuel delivery itself is sufficient? Have you checked fuel pressure or the length of your pump pushrod?

 

[BeepBeepRR]

As Turbine said check the length of the fuel pump push rod to make sure its not worn. But I suspect fuel boil had the same thing happen to the Road Runner.

 

[moparwacko]

The phenolic spacer is the answer. (Assuming no carb problems)
The second answer is ethanol free fuel if available.

 

[turbine68rt]

Something else is going on with his setup. I can drive to a show on a 90°+ day, have it sit for 5-6 hours and it starts within 2 seconds. 100% stock, pump gas.

 

[lorny]

My son's car had a issue like this, and I had the same issue when the carburetor was on my car. After it is shut off for more than the few minutes the pressurized fuel from pump to carburetor would expand (heat) and would cause it to force past needle and dribbling into the manifold. This would continue until everything starts to cool down. We ended up using a filter with the return line on it to bleed off the pressure back to the tank after car is shut off.

thx
can you explain in detail wr and how i put the return line

 

[lorny]

thx
can you explain in detail wr and how i put the return line

 

[lorny]

The phenolic spacer is the answer. (Assuming no carb problems)
The second answer is ethanol free fuel if available.

i have the spacer

 

[DanielSlocum]

Possible loose timing chain if not carb heat related.

 

[WileERobby]

Have you checked your choke operation ?

 

[Don Frelier]

Heat riser stuck shut perhaps?
Do you have a heat block off intake valley pan?
Try pulling off the air cleaner before trying it and see if you find raw fuel on the throttle blades

 

[70bigblockdodge]

thx
can you explain in detail wr and how i put the return line

Get a fuel filter from a 81 Cordoba, 82-85 fifth Ave. Run the small side tap (1/4" hose barb) back to tank, paralleling the fuel line. If you bought a replacement sending unit it will most likely have a 1/4" barb on it.
If not/you have original sending unit, that might be suspect also (partially clogged or rust pin holes in it). If you do not have a return/vent in sending unit you can return it into the auction line, this is not really ideal but will work. If it fixes your problem then you can decide if you want to add a return to your sending unit, drill a hole and solder a line though it or buy a sending unit with return.

 

[lorny]

Get a fuel filter from a 81 Cordoba, 82-85 fifth Ave. Run the small side tap (1/4" hose barb) back to tank, paralleling the fuel line. If you bought a replacement sending unit it will most likely have a 1/4" barb on it.
If not/you have original sending unit, that might be suspect also (partially clogged or rust pin holes in it). If you do not have a return/vent in sending unit you can return it into the auction line, this is not really ideal but will work. If it fixes your problem then you can decide if you want to add a return to your sending unit, drill a hole and solder a line though it or buy a sending unit with return.

 

[lorny]

no heat riser
whats a heat block
and yes take air cleaner off and study ... tomorrow

Heat riser stuck shut perhaps?
Do you have a heat block off intake valley pan?
Try pulling off the air cleaner before trying it and see if you find raw fuel on the throttle blades

heat rizor

 

[lorny]

is auction line the gas tank vent