• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

383 PISTON QUESTION-383 GUYS

SgtLee511

Well-Known Member
Local time
12:20 PM
Joined
Jun 14, 2014
Messages
438
Reaction score
239
Location
NE TEXAS
I'M A 340 GUY NEVER BUILT A BIG BLOCK, BUT NOW I HAVE A 69 383 ROADRUNNER, MACHINE SHOP NEEDS TO KNOW WHAT PISTONS TO ORDER, THIS IS MORE A RESTO JOB, BUT WOULD LIKE BETTER THAN STOCK PERFORMANCE, SO THAT BEING SAID, AM I LOOKING FOR VALVE RELIEFS, OR WILL FLAT TOPS WORK WITH A 500 LIFT CAMSHAFT OR LESS, MOST LIKELY USING THE 906'S, BUT EDDYS MIGHT BE A POSSIBILITY..CAN YOU 383 GUYS GIVE ME SUGGESTIONS,
 
I SEE YOUR FROM PITTSBURGH, MY FAMILY RESIDES AROUND IRWIN -TRAFFORD AREA, SEE YOU GOT ME THERE I DONT HAVE A CLUE ABOUT 440 RODS IN A 383, LOL
 
I'd recommend a stroker kit from 440 source, before spending thousands on a 383 stock stroke.

But if your set on a 383, Diamond makes a stock stroke/rod 383 piston.

It is approximately .016 below deck, you'll want deck the block some, but it has some generous 4cc valve reliefs.
http://www.manciniracing.com/di94bo3st.html

The other alternative is Keith Black KB 400 Pistons, which are dome pistons and are .024 below deck, so you'll want deck the block and check your piston to valve clearance.

http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/keith-black-kb400-030-hypereutectic-dome-pistons-4-280-bore.html

Keith Black also makes this piston http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/keith-black-kb162-030-hypereutectic-flat-top-pistons-4-280-bore.html

But it's .024 below deck and has big valve reliefs, with 88cc heads you'll have 8.5:1 compression. It's probably ok if you deck your block, but there are better options above.
 
Last edited:
Irwin is about 40 miles away but very familiar with, bought a new car there once.

Using the 440 rods in a B engine has some nice benefits. 440 aftermarket rods are much easier to find than 383 / 400 & have identical journal size. The longer rod size gives a nice 2.0 rod ratio with the stock crank & allows for a shorter and lighter piston and big reduction in rotating weight. You get much better response / rev capability & also less cylinder thrust loads. You really have to cc your heads & measure actual block deck height to see what your compression ratio will be, in my case it will be 9.9 but I'm using closed chamber with nice quench. Open chamber 906 will need something different. You can deck or mill heads to get what you want but if it were me I'd just order the flat tops with a different compression height, the fee for that isn't much more. I've heard stories of blocks being way out of whack but my untouched 383 had near perfect factory deck heights & I used off the shelf pistons.
 
Irwin is about 40 miles away but very familiar with, bought a new car there once.

Using the 440 rods in a B engine has some nice benefits. 440 aftermarket rods are much easier to find than 383 / 400 & have identical journal size. The longer rod size gives a nice 2.0 rod ratio with the stock crank & allows for a shorter and lighter piston and big reduction in rotating weight. You get much better response / rev capability & also less cylinder thrust loads. You really have to cc your heads & measure actual block deck height to see what your compression ratio will be, in my case it will be 9.9 but I'm using closed chamber with nice quench. Open chamber 906 will need something different. You can deck or mill heads to get what you want but if it were me I'd just order the flat tops with a different compression height, the fee for that isn't much more. I've heard stories of blocks being way out of whack but my untouched 383 had near perfect factory deck heights & I used off the shelf pistons.

Lots of good information and ill start researching the ideas,
 
Irwin is about 40 miles away but very familiar with, bought a new car there once.

Using the 440 rods in a B engine has some nice benefits. 440 aftermarket rods are much easier to find than 383 / 400 & have identical journal size. The longer rod size gives a nice 2.0 rod ratio with the stock crank & allows for a shorter and lighter piston and big reduction in rotating weight. You get much better response / rev capability & also less cylinder thrust loads. You really have to cc your heads & measure actual block deck height to see what your compression ratio will be, in my case it will be 9.9 but I'm using closed chamber with nice quench. Open chamber 906 will need something different. You can deck or mill heads to get what you want but if it were me I'd just order the flat tops with a different compression height, the fee for that isn't much more. I've heard stories of blocks being way out of whack but my untouched 383 had near perfect factory deck heights & I used off the shelf pistons.

what compression height pistons are you using with the 440 rods, and what brand?
 
what compression height pistons are you using with the 440 rods, and what brand?

Pistons are Diamond 51907, 1.516 CH. Rods are K1 007AT33676S which are from China but machined by Wiseco, got a Summit $ match for $515. Wanted to get the Howards 440 rods (USA made) but they are discontinued even though they are in catalog. Other USA rods are big $. Also found a pair of NOS 383 head gaskets (2863225) that have the smaller bore, lot of the newer ones are meant for huge motors. Thought of going stroker but I like the short stroke of the 383, kind of like a giant small block Ford, a long stroke would also give too much compression for a street motor w/ flat tops. I did find some mopar discontinued 3.75" forged B cranks unbelievably cheap which would be fabulous for big open chambers, if you need part # let me know.
 
Irwin is about 40 miles away but very familiar with, bought a new car there once.

Using the 440 rods in a B engine has some nice benefits. 440 aftermarket rods are much easier to find than 383 / 400 & have identical journal size. The longer rod size gives a nice 2.0 rod ratio with the stock crank & allows for a shorter and lighter piston and big reduction in rotating weight. You get much better response / rev capability & also less cylinder thrust loads. You really have to cc your heads & measure actual block deck height to see what your compression ratio will be, in my case it will be 9.9 but I'm using closed chamber with nice quench. Open chamber 906 will need something different. You can deck or mill heads to get what you want but if it were me I'd just order the flat tops with a different compression height, the fee for that isn't much more. I've heard stories of blocks being way out of whack but my untouched 383 had near perfect factory deck heights & I used off the shelf pistons.
I've never heard of using 440 rods in a 383, but sounds interesting. I like the idea of a shorter compression height and a lighter piston. Not sure what effect the 2.0 rod ratio will have, but let us know how it well it works! Good luck.
 
Pistons are Diamond 51907, 1.516 CH. Rods are K1 007AT33676S which are from China but machined by Wiseco, got a Summit $ match for $515. Wanted to get the Howards 440 rods (USA made) but they are discontinued even though they are in catalog. Other USA rods are big $. Also found a pair of NOS 383 head gaskets (2863225) that have the smaller bore, lot of the newer ones are meant for huge motors. Thought of going stroker but I like the short stroke of the 383, kind of like a giant small block Ford, a long stroke would also give too much compression for a street motor w/ flat tops. I did find some mopar discontinued 3.75" forged B cranks unbelievably cheap which would be fabulous for big open chambers, if you need part # let me know.

Cool thanks for the info. What RPM are you targeting with this setup, 7k+?
 
Cool thanks for the info. What RPM are you targeting with this setup, 7k+?
Nah, but 6k should be no problem. My valvetrain & heads wouldn't support that but I'm sure the rotating assy could handle it. I'm using the "boat anchor" 516 heads but with big valves & bowl work. Basically this will be a super durable street motor with power in the realm of a good running stock 440HP, maybe a bit more. Can tell by experience the light rotating assy makes a big difference in engine response, stock motors with the super heavy pistons are relatively lazy revvers. One thing I'm sure everyone feels is the prices of parts have become expensive, doing this crap ain't cheap!
 
Nah, but 6k should be no problem. My valvetrain & heads wouldn't support that but I'm sure the rotating assy could handle it. I'm using the "boat anchor" 516 heads but with big valves & bowl work. Basically this will be a super durable street motor with power in the realm of a good running stock 440HP, maybe a bit more. Can tell by experience the light rotating assy makes a big difference in engine response, stock motors with the super heavy pistons are relatively lazy revvers. One thing I'm sure everyone feels is the prices of parts have become expensive, doing this crap ain't cheap!

I'm with you, here's my build. It's a fun car to let rip, but I'm ultimately going to pull this engine and sell it and build a 470 B stroker. Torque is King!

'68 383 Block
KB 162 Pistons, .024 Below deck, 5cc Valve Reliefs
Comp ratio is 9.1:1, Quench is .045 with Steel shims.
Heads are fresh 516's, 2.08/1.74 valves, with light blending to remove flash.
Cam is a Comp XE274H cam. 230/236 Duration on 110 LS
Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake
FBO A688 Ignition Kit
FBO Distributor Recurved-- Card is spec'd out 18* Initial/34* Total. Vac 10* @ 15"
<Timing is set to spec>
Carb: QuickFuel Q Series 680 VS
Doug Thorley 1 3/4" headers with 3" collector to H-Pipe/ 2.5" out

Drivetrain:
727, Trans Go Stage II Shift Kit
Turbo Action 11" 2800 TC
8 3/4" 489 Case, Powerloc. 3.73 gears
 
Last edited:
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top