383 rebuild advice

[Pat66Satellite]

I've been a long time lurker here and appreciate all the things I've learned from everyone. I have the 383 out of my 66 Satellite because I found some issues with it. The 516 heads are shot (leaking valves and guides). A few cylinder walls have significant up and down scratches enough to break a nail on. This will be a first time engine rebuild for me. The car is a cruiser, but I'd like to hit the dragstrip a few times for that rush. I dont have a big budget, but I have all the time in the world. I'm a diesel mechanic by trade so I have some mechanical ability! My dream is a low deck stroker (440source, or Eagle) that looks basically stock but rips. My wallet says I'll probably just have to do a stock rebuild! No matter what, the block will be going out to be looked at and freshened up. I will not be reusing iron heads. Does anyone have any recommendations for Mopar friendly machine shops in and around North East Ohio? I'm kinda curious as to what people are paying to have block work done, from cleaning, magnafluxing, measuring, honing, etc? If I decide to go somewhat stock, can I get away with just new pistons and rings? (Assuming the crank and rods are good). Any advice would be appreciated! In looking for a good running engine and 400 or so HP when done. Thanks!

 

[gkent]

You might consider a prebalanced 440Source stroker kit. For what you'll pay to have your crank and rods done, new pistons, rings, bearings and balancing, you'd probably come out even AND have your stroker. And their heads are a good bang for the buck. And if you were to find a 400 block for a $100 bucks or so you'd have a big low deck stroker.

 

[69Bee]

Here is a suggestion from a machine shop in AZ, do it right, do it once... Clean and magnaflux the block, then align hone the mains, square the block, then bore and hone to 0.020" or 0.030" (whichever it cleans up at). If you don't get a rotating assembly, grind the crankshaft, and resize the rods using ARP rod bolts. If you are inclined to use ARP main bolts/studs, have them WHEN the block is align honed, not after. With todays pistons, excluding custom pistons, the deck height will be a compromise as most pistons (stock replacements) will be de-stroked (shorter compression distance).

Keep in mind, if you are gong with aluminum heads and a rotating assembly, that will add almost $5k to the rebuild price. Block work should be in the $750 to $1000 range. If you want to go the rotating assembly route, look into "CNC Motorsports" CNC-Motorsports | Performance Auto Parts and Engines (cnc-motorsports.com) for the assembly. They do good work, and you can have them balance the assembly before it is sent to you.

You can build a nice motor with the engine parts you already have, for less money, but that is just my opinion.

 

[69a100]

You might consider a prebalanced 440Source stroker kit. For what you'll pay to have your crank and rods done, new pistons, rings, bearings and balancing, you'd probably come out even AND have your stroker. And their heads are a good bang for the buck. And if you were to find a 400 block for a $100 bucks or so you'd have a big low deck stroker.

Good Luck

 

[rmchrgr]

Agree with Stanton here. I am currently helping a friend with a 440 source stroker 383/438" with their Stealth heads. After researching every last detail and pricing everything out including machine shop costs, I can say with 100% confidence the money would have been the same or more if he chose to recondition the stock parts.

We also saved money by assembling it in my shop so that may or may not be something you will need to consider. Besides hot tanking, initial measuring then boring and honing the block to final size, the machine shop installed new cam bearings, freeze plugs and a distributor bushing but that was really it. The final bill was under $850. We did not have to deck the block or have the mains align honed.

We have gone through all the blueprinting procedures ourselves that would have really added up if we had paid someone to do it - deburring and painting the block, file fitting the rings, installing the pistons on the rods, degreeing the cam, etc.

Our block was bored .060" over. Most likely your block will need to be honed if not bored over so no matter what, you are into the project for that operation plus the cost of pistons, rings, bearings and balancing. Reconditioning the stock rods would have cost us more than the new 440Source rods for $250. We were quoted $750-800 to recondition the stock 906 heads which made zero sense. Why sink that much into old, iron heads when you can buy modern, better performing aluminum heads for $1,000?

There really is no downside to going the stroker route - you get 55 more cubic inches with all new parts, lighter pistons, modern heads etc. We chose a mild hydraulic cam so it will be easy to live with. This motor should make 425-450hp pretty easily and will make a ton of torque. The 438" is still a shorter stroke so it should rev like a 383. Paint it factory colors, throw a 383 pie tin on the air cleaner and no one will ever know what's inside.

 

[Pat66Satellite]

Thanks fellas. Sometimes all I need to hear is other peoples stories to inspire me. Should I wait to get the block looked at and redone until I have decided on stock vs stroker? How long can a redone engine block sit in my garage before I HAVE to start assembling?

 

[rmchrgr]

I would wait on machining and do everything at once. A machined block will rust if not protected properly and kept free from moisture. If you grease it after it's machined to protect it, then you have to clean it again. Unless wherever you store the block is precisely temp controlled, any significant swings in temperature will cause moisture to form on surfaces as they heat up during the day.

Any competent machine shop will want to know what the end goal is before they start their operations. In our case, we waited to order pistons until after we heard from the machinist. At a minimum they will need to know what kind of rings you're using so they put the proper finish on the cylinder walls.

 

[gkent]

How long can a redone engine block sit in my garage before I HAVE to start assembling?

Depends on how ell you protect it from moisture and rusting. Soak the whole thing in heavy oil and wrap it in plastic bags and it will outlive you!

 

[66Satellite47]

Pat, you are sure on the right track, find a good builder that knows Mopars, do as much as you can yourself, get some modern heads. The Source heads may have gotten better as far as quality, I don't know. All aftermarket heads still need a good look, guide fit & valve job. As far as I know the normal 383 block can usually take .060 with no problem. A longer stroke is a real big plus, but depends on what you want to spend on a stock 383 crank. If a stocker hasn't seen real abuse, the "tuning fork" test is good & don't need magniflux, a .010/.010 for straightness is probably good. Stock 383 rods can take a lot (my stock 400 rods were magged, shot peened, good bolts held up to regular 7200-7400 RPM), ARP or equal rod bolts, recon'd w/proper bearings. A basic 383 with the correct cam & head combination will do real well on the street. Big stroke will be a lot harder on tires though.

 

[69a100]

Should I wait to get the block looked at and redone until I have decided on stock vs stroker?

There's no need to piss your money into the wind unless you want to, what happens if you don't need the kit, then what? Now you're stuck with it and may not get all your money back on it! Good Luck

 

[Charger Dana]

No one has mentioned this I don’t think, but once you’re around $5000 you’d be surprised what options open up for buying a complete motor. I’ve done it both ways (well, I’m not mechanically inclined but the only machining we did was polish and balance crank/stock rods- rest done by a mechanic and myself, mostly me watching.

So starting with the rebuilt 383, drag race motor budget build: had block, pistons and rods, crank. Bought used Max wedge heads, intake, rockers and lots of peripheral parts- bolts, cam, bearings etc. $1100 Cdn machining, rest was self built. Around $4500 Cdn. Ran great. But I started with most of the parts. And zero labour cost (well, $5,000 in beer

My restored car, bought a complete motor less carb and pulleys, 383 ported 915s, $4000 Cdn. Dropped it in after painting it. Was a 12.5 quarter mile in #3800 lb car and driver, street car.

I like the certainty of doing your own, you know it’s done right. But a complete motor, while potentially a risk, is faster and cheaper. You can likely find street/strip 440s for under $5000 US- I can’t believe you wouldn’t. Just need some time, don’t rush, get lots of info on the purchase. 383s often even cheaper.

 

[PRND21]

For my 65 Belvedere I used a 69 383 block bored .030 over with an Eagle 3.9 in. stroke crank, Eagle 6.760 H-beam rods, J&E pistons for a 9.8 to 1 CR. 448 cubic inches. Comp XE274 cam, Edelbrock 84cc heads, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, Edelbrock 800 cfm Thunder series carb, Chrysler electronic ignition, TTI headers and exhaust system. It’s hooked to a Tremec TKO600 transmission with an 8 3/4 3:55 rear gear. I really like this combination, it pulls like a much bigger engine, but it wasn’t cheap. It’s a low deck engine, so I didn’t need to cut a hole in the hood for clearance.

 

[Pat66Satellite]

Thanks for all the info. I really appreciate it. I just have to find a reputable machine shop in Ohio that can help me out now.

 

[gkent]

Isn’t Koffels in Ohio?

 

[Charger Dana]

I am mostly a 383 guy, but this came up on Facebook today. Brand new build, professional shop. $9500, but look at the parts etc. Looks like a Brewer (Brewer’s do Mopars, trannies etc.). I am not saying it’s what you need, just context for what you could find.

New 499” Mopar RB engine, street motor, pump gas, dyno time only.
Built by Performance Clinic in Dayton, OH.
1970 440 block
4.375” Ross pistons 9.75 CR
SRS 4.15” stroke 2.20” rod journals
SRS rods ARP 2000 rod bolts
Indy aluminum heads & valley plate
Mopar Performance single plane intake & Electronic distributor
ARP main & head studs
Comp cams .567” IN, .579” EX solid lifter cam & valve springs
Crane roller rockers
Moroso oil pan ½” pickup tube & plug wires
Engine made 616 TQ @ 4000 RPM, 536 HP @5000 RPM with a 750 Holley carb on 94 octane.
This engine built to be a street engine, not a race motor.
$9,500. Located in Laura, OH. PM if you have any questions.

 

[1968rt]

If you want a budget stroker, cut down a 440 crank and make a 426. Cranks and rods are cheap, not sure on the pistons