• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

383 to 440 engine swap question

meepbeep69

Member
Local time
9:33 AM
Joined
Jan 18, 2010
Messages
10
Reaction score
0
Location
Chicagoland
I was reading in another blog site that there may be problems with the inner tie rods hitting the oil pan after the swap.

Car is a 69 RR former 383 long since gone.

A pretty much stock 1970- 440 with stock oil pan is going back in.

Engine is ready for a dyno run this week.

I just need to know if this is an issue or if there are other issues that are going to come up after I drop the block in the bay.

Those that have done the swap let me know.

Thanks..
 
I have never had any issues like that. The only close, pan to center link clearance, pan I have had is a 73 and later C body.
Or maybe all the c bodies 67-78
 
Last edited:
Most all 383's had 5 qt oil pans. Some 440's had 6 qt oil pans.
This in some cases can and will cause and issue if the oil pan is from I think a Truck and maybe a later model Chrysler or Imperial
But in your case I don't think you will have a problem, it is not at all a common problem.
Just look at the slump on the oil pan you are using and compare the slump in the oil pan to a stock 383 B body oil pain. A picture comparison is good enough.
 
There should be a # stamped in the pan, do you know what it is? 402 is the org pan for your car.
 
I am a little timid because I had to change out the intake to go lower due to height issues. That was not expected.

Now I have a 750 Holley that is too long because of the bowls so changing over to an Edelbrock.

I was at the engine shop yesterday and was told it is a 5qt. pan. (two dips)

I should have taken a picture!!
 
I think someone should go over and help this man out it sounds to me like who ever is ding this doesn't know what there doing:no: and he is spending money he doesn't have to:yes::......that's my thought: I wish he was closer..Artie :mad:
 
You should not have had to swap the intake if both were stock intakes. The 383 and 440 are basically the same block with the same dimensions. Was it your mechanic that told you this?
 
They are the same block until you get to the height of the deck. Taller deck. Wider intake, which also sits higher than a 383 does. That's why there was a 383 and a 440 N96 breather.
 
Oh my god! Somebody stop him. Dude, take a break. Stop, step back. Get your friends and experts drunk, and when they pass out and quit talking, take a look at the situation.
Don't just start throwing parts at the problem. It usually just ends up in extra parts and no money. By the way, is there a problem? Does the oil pan interfere with the tie rods?
First that, then we'll deal with the intake....
 
two humps on the oil pan? isnt that a truck pan? im possitive both my 440 pans i have only have one sump at the front. as for the intake and carb situation if the intake is too tall what is it a tunnel ram. do you have or can you get pics? like stated before it kinda sounds like the mechanic is trying to soak you for parts you dont need i sure hope your not letting him keep the parts he claims dont fit. if for some reason your intake is a really tall one and you already bought a different intake that the carb bowls hit on then go buy your self a 1" carb spacer to raise the carb up a little rather than buying a new carb. you are making a clone so are you adding fresh air/air grabber to the hood. i have a 69 gtx 440 and with stock intake stock carb with a 3" air filter and i still have around 2 to 3 inches above the filter between the hood
 
As others have said, if you get the proper air cleaner base you won't need to hange intakes. If you have the correct oil pan you will be OK as well. The air cleaner bases are available repo.
 
two humps on the oil pan? isnt that a truck pan? im possitive both my 440 pans i have only have one sump at the front.

Two stumps, THAT A FORD PAN!!!:huh: Mopar truck pans are rear stump while cars were center stump, more toward the ft of center though.
 
Sorry about that St. Pat's day and too much Smithwicks! No camel humps on the oil pan. Like I said I should have taken a picture.

Pan is a 187...............

http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/oilpans.html.

I do not want to hoist it up and put it in and then have a problem. Just want to know does it or will it fit with the 187. It is on a stand now and a 402 is available but I just have to clean it up and put it in but then the sump might be different.

At times I feel like I am moving a load bearing wall with electrical, plumbing and HVAC in it.

How the 187 came with a '70 cast 440 January date block is another question but I can remember a nice L79 Chevy engine we built ourselves year ago and the timing marks were from another car. Man was that fun when we fired it up!! If my older brother was any closer when we fired it up he would have come away looking like Don King!!

Regarding the rpm performer manifold the blogs are filled with problems of being too high for the standard hood with a 440.

In hindsight, factoring in the cost of the new manifold, the bowls of the 750 being too long for the standard mount of the coil and the double pump lines in the way I should have bought an M code hood!!

The answer unless I can hear from someone who has done it is to shelf the 750 and the double pump lines and go with an edelbrock 800 and banjo the fuel line to the stock looking lines from the fuel pump. The coil and fuel filter will then fit and I will get the unsilenced wrinkle finish air cleaner to work.

The 440 is taller than the 383 and I still might have to hunt down a Ford 13 inch drop base to make it work. Unless again someone has been there and done that!!

Let me know and thanks for your help.
 
Get the right oil pan.Sell the 187 to the a body guy looking to do a big block swap.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top