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3d printing dash knobs for my '67 Belvedere

67belvodere

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Being the cheapskate that I am, an not too picky, I decided that I would like to try to match some radio knobs to the factory ones in the dash (turns out my wiper knob is missing, as is my radio and knobs). Taking some photos, bad measurements (ruler/eyeball), I tried my hand at Fusion 360 to create a 3d model which I then exported for my 3d printer. Making the knurls was a little tricky and I didn't know how detailed my printer would go (and I was still learning how to use the software), I went with bigger knurls (48 around vs 72 on the original). It's slightly thicker and taller at the top (where it would get grabbed), again, because I'd rather err on it being sturdy than thin and break. I don't know if the inner chrome piece will fit (it might, its close) but I didn't use a micrometer...

I also read online about radio post diameters: 3/16 inch shaft with a half-flat, which seems to be smaller than the wiper opening but I'm going to check it on an old am radio from another car and see. Next iteration will make sure the hole is right. I wouls also use finer settings on the printer (0.2 mm print layer, vs 0.16 mm) but I wanted to see if it would be close first.

Anyhow, when and if I refine it, I'll post back.

Chris

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Being the cheapskate that I am, an not too picky, I decided that I would like to try to match some radio knobs to the factory ones in the dash (turns out my wiper knob is missing, as is my radio and knobs). Taking some photos, bad measurements (ruler/eyeball), I tried my hand at Fusion 360 to create a 3d model which I then exported for my 3d printer. Making the knurls was a little tricky and I didn't know how detailed my printer would go (and I was still learning how to use the software), I went with bigger knurls (48 around vs 72 on the original). It's slightly thicker and taller at the top (where it would get grabbed), again, because I'd rather err on it being sturdy than thin and break. I don't know if the inner chrome piece will fit (it might, its close) but I didn't use a micrometer...

I also read online about radio post diameters: 3/16 inch shaft with a half-flat, which seems to be smaller than the wiper opening but I'm going to check it on an old am radio from another car and see. Next iteration will make sure the hole is right. I wouls also use finer settings on the printer (0.2 mm print layer, vs 0.16 mm) but I wanted to see if it would be close first.

Anyhow, when and if I refine it, I'll post back.

Chris

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Thats really A+ for gumption!
It Could Be The Beginning Of A New Side Gig!
MoPar2Ya!!!!!!!!
 
looks great, I've made a few different parts with my 3D printer for my Charger. What did you print that that in ? PLA ???
I C that you are from Canada as well . I know temps out in Alberta usually aren't not to crazy. But remember that if you used PLA, it starts to soften at around 60c. The inside of car can get to that pretty easy in a hot day. maybe look into printing in PETG?

For a small part like that. I would have printed it on my resin printer. The detail you can get with one of those is just crazy.

shoot me a PM if you want talk some 3D printing gossip !

Cheers
 
I'm old school so, I made knobs on my lathe from aluminum to match the control knobs from Vintage Air. I really do think 3-d printing is cool!
Mike
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You could use a disc sander to put that cone on the end of aluminum round stock of the proper diameter. Polish it and cut it off. Glue it in the center.
 
looks great, I've made a few different parts with my 3D printer for my Charger. What did you print that that in ? PLA ???
I C that you are from Canada as well . I know temps out in Alberta usually aren't not to crazy. But remember that if you used PLA, it starts to soften at around 60c. The inside of car can get to that pretty easy in a hot day. maybe look into printing in PETG?

For a small part like that. I would have printed it on my resin printer. The detail you can get with one of those is just crazy.

shoot me a PM if you want talk some 3D printing gossip !

Cheers
Yeah, in PLA as proof of concept. I know someone with a resin printer so might hit them up once I've got it dialed in.
 
Nice Job! I've been thinking about doing the same thing except for the fact I don't have a 3-d printer and it would take me literally light years to get to your level! I'd definitely be interested if you take this further!
 
Right on. Here’s a Mopar magazine article on 3D printing where they actually printed that exact same ‘67 Plymouth knob.
Gallery: 3D Printing Custom Car Parts At Home - Mopar Connection Magazine | A comprehensive daily resource for Mopar enthusiast news, features and the latest Mopar tech
Holy $#@&, and whatever expletive you want to insert, I spent way too much time searching for just that item! This article never appeared. There's is pretty nice. I might see if they have more info or a 3d file to share.
 
Nice Job! I've been thinking about doing the same thing except for the fact I don't have a 3-d printer and it would take me literally light years to get to your level! I'd definitely be interested if you take this further!
Thanks, but my "level" is hack at best. I did some searching on how to get to that shape, there's a lot of good tutorials out there.
If I get this better, I'll keep you posted.
 
I have my printer working on another prototype for my gauge cluster right now in PETG, previous was in PLA and I left it laying on top of the dash and even in winter sun it got soft. If the PETG is still not up to it then sending the files to a place like PCBway for printing in ABS is an option. Fusion360 annoys me so I usually just use tinkercad which is free and made for learning. I recommend it to anyone interested in 3D printing, plus you can also do electronic circuit design there and simulate power to them.
 
I have my printer working on another prototype for my gauge cluster right now in PETG, previous was in PLA and I left it laying on top of the dash and even in winter sun it got soft. If the PETG is still not up to it then sending the files to a place like PCBway for printing in ABS is an option. Fusion360 annoys me so I usually just use tinkercad which is free and made for learning. I recommend it to anyone interested in 3D printing, plus you can also do electronic circuit design there and simulate power to them.
I did try tinkercad a while back and forgot about it this time around. I use the free version of Fusion 360 and it seems overwhelming at times. I have read that pla is not the right material for vehicles due to the distortion factor in heat, I'd be interested to know if PETG works.
 
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