mopar 3 B
Well-Known Member
That can be a pain in the you know what but fixable.
4-speed clutch not disengaging? Help!
- Thread starter Hankohop
- Start date
Daves69
Well-Known Member
I think what tends to happen is one side and retainer clip slides in too far on the fork and the other out as the release bearing twists around the retainer tube. As you apply the pedal, the fork twists on the pivot. Unfortunately it's always the top one. Probably need to pull the fork out to get both sides on at the same time.
Hankohop
Well-Known Member
No sir that was just at rest. My adjustments are all wonky because I was trying to get something. I'd imagine that's my problem. I took it all apart and made sure that I set that up properly. The bearing itself seems to be in good condition. I won't have it back together until tomorrow though. I'm doing this outside and up here in nepa it's getting quite cold.
Hankohop
Well-Known Member
So I fixed the throwout bearing issue. Now when I put the car I gear nothing still. I put the trans into first gear and I can turn the engine by hand. I don't know what's up.
Original fork finally failed on mine. What the fork. Delicate job with fine tuning to get it right.
Good feel now. Toeing up the clutch on the freeway mainly due to habit now.
Good feel now. Toeing up the clutch on the freeway mainly due to habit now.
Daves69
Well-Known Member
By chance did you replace a 3 finger Borg and Beck style clutch with this setup?
Just exactly what set is that in there now?
Hankohop
Well-Known Member
I put a centerforce clutch in it I can't remember the exact part number of the clutch. I can't remember the old clutch pressure plate either though. Would that cause a major issue like this?
Think more pictures needed of shift and clutch linkage.
Hankohop
Well-Known Member
this has me on the edge of my seat! if i took one of these clutches out would the same type need to go in?
Daves69
Well-Known Member
A diaphragm clutch typically needs the pedal over-center spring removed. The B&B style will need this spring to provide assist in both directions, 1st to disengage the plate and 2nd to pull the pedal up to it's stop. The bearing, with pedal up, should be off the plate fingers.
Can you verify the transmission is actually in gear? Back off your adjustment completely and try.
Here is a "starting point" for adjustment. You want to adjust into it rather than adjust back from over-adjust.
Can you verify the transmission is actually in gear? Back off your adjustment completely and try.
Here is a "starting point" for adjustment. You want to adjust into it rather than adjust back from over-adjust.
Hankohop
Well-Known Member
I actually did just that. I backed the adjustement off completely and nothing. I can actually turn the engine by the flywheel bolt with the trans in gear.
I would like to note that with the driveshaft off and the trans in gear the output shaft did turn. It would seem that once the weight of the car is applied there are no gears. This would sound to me as though the clutch isn't doing it's job. I'd just hate to throw more parts at a smoked transmission.
Daves69
Well-Known Member
Not sounding good.
Try all the gears if you haven't yet.
A remote possibility, unless you know for sure, could be the disc is in backwards.
Hankohop
Well-Known Member
i mean i i didn't take it completely apart to double check. i will be starting to do it this week. because well i mean i have to drop the thing anyway. I did check all of the gears and nothing. i just hope its not the trans thats toast. if its just a clutch shame on me whatever ya know? if it's the trans ill be pretty bummed out.
Daves69
Well-Known Member
We've all learned by trial and error on these cars. As a positive you'll be further educated on this application!
Do you have any discernable free play at the top of the clutch pedal? Most of my experience is GM and Ford but it sort of sounds like when you put a bent finger CF diaphragm clutch in with a used B&B throw out bearing, the bearing is too long and preventing the clutch from releasing to engage. Is there any play or slop in the throw out fork if you grab it and try to move it - there should be. If it won't move and is tight, you will need to get a TO bearing designed for a diaphragm clutch.
And if they give you a plastic body TO bearing throw it away and get a McLeod or Hays or Ram TO bearing.
And if they give you a plastic body TO bearing throw it away and get a McLeod or Hays or Ram TO bearing.
Look at the pictures that Daves69 posted. You need to accurately check 2 things.
1) With the clutch pedal up, that the face of the T/O bearing is not touching the fingers of the pressure plate.
2) With the clutch pedal pushed to the floor, that there is at least +- .060"clearance between the clutch disc and the flywheel.
If the clutch is adjusted correctly and you put it in gear, but the transmission output shaft is not turning, either the input shaft or main shaft is broken, NOT A LIKELY THING. You also would hear a commotion in the transmission.
My gut tells me the T/O bearing is too long and not allowing the clutch to compress the disc...
1) With the clutch pedal up, that the face of the T/O bearing is not touching the fingers of the pressure plate.
2) With the clutch pedal pushed to the floor, that there is at least +- .060"clearance between the clutch disc and the flywheel.
If the clutch is adjusted correctly and you put it in gear, but the transmission output shaft is not turning, either the input shaft or main shaft is broken, NOT A LIKELY THING. You also would hear a commotion in the transmission.
My gut tells me the T/O bearing is too long and not allowing the clutch to compress the disc...
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