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4-speed clutch recommendations please?

d.b.

d.b.

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I have a '66 Belvedere with an Indy-headed 360 kicking out upwards of 425hp and my clutch just ain't man enough for the job :icon_sad:

I have an 18-spline Mopar gearbox & 10.5" pressure plate with a McLeod friction plate, stock flywheel.
It has 4.50 gears in an S&W 9" with Detroit locker, 31" x 16.5" Street ET's.
This setup was fine for moderate street use but my 1st outing to the dragstrip blew the clutch away on my 1st run, note the tell-tale puff of clutch smoke...

Adams pic. Clutch smokin.jpg

(..and due to having no rev-limiter the motor hit 7500, broke 5 spring retainers & bent one valve :eek:ops:)
 
multiple disc is better........... I haven't ran a clutch car for a while now, but www.10000rpm.com/ lite clutch systems was a really good one, I ran a Crower Slider Clutch, Flywheel & Hat in a Simpson Titanium Can w/triple & latter 4-disc in front of a Jeffco/Lenco 3 & later 4 speed, for years before that, but that was on a 1500+hp BBC on N20 or a Milodon Mastodon 540ci Hemi 12.71:1 High Helix Supercharged FI on alky too...... a real "racing clutch" isn't cheap, especially one you can adjust, that will last any period of time, like the A-Typical $150-$350 performance street/strip claiming to be a racing clutch, those are a dime a dozen, in trash cans.... call 10,000 RPM 661-942-1312 or look at their lite clutches on their website for your specific type application & needs, I'll bet you'd love it... good luck
 
i run a american powertrain kevlar clutch and billet flywheel, good for upto 900hp
 
benno440 said:
i run a american powertrain kevlar clutch and billet flywheel, good for upto 900hp
Click to expand...

Have you ever tried that clutch with slicks & a well prepped track & hard launch ??
 
this is kind of a loaded question, with your horsepower level i would think you could get by on a dual friction centerforce. but after that it just goes up and up. a crazy gripping clutch isn't ideal for any stick shift trans, something needs to give a little. i can see by the size of the tires those won't be giving. how fast is the car? for a serious drag car i would run the above mentioned adjustable clutch. i ran one in my dart for a while which is a street strip car. its a mccloud pressure plate and a sintered iron dick built by hyatt clutches. pricy but i was using it behind my hemi. loosen it up for the track and tighten it back up for the street.

P1270013.jpg

P1270015.jpg
 
First thing that got my attention was "stock flywheel" and 7,500 RPM. Hope you have a scattershield in place. I use a Centerforce aluminum flywheel with a replaceable sintered iron face and a Centerforce Dual Friction clutch set. Very happy with the performance. If you're going to race it occassionally, please at least use an SFI approved flywheel.

Budnicks: Seriously, we know you were a racer, but none of that stuff has any relevance on a street car.
 
coloradodave said:
First thing that got my attention was "stock flywheel" and 7,500 RPM. Hope you have a scattershield in place. I use a Centerforce aluminum flywheel with a replaceable sintered iron face and a Centerforce Dual Friction clutch set. Very happy with the performance. If you're going to race it occassionally, please at least use an SFI approved flywheel.

Budnicks: Seriously, we know you were a racer, but none of that stuff has any relevance on a street car.
Click to expand...

If you look at the car, or read his post & it has big tires @ the track in his photo & I assumed they are "slicks" & he said it was "at the track", this happened", racing it, when his "Ok for the street clutch", happened to go.... Depends on the street car... Opinions will vary on what's "actually" needed, vastly I'm sure, that's your opinion, not mine....
 
I'm new to American forums, I'd heard you guys like to argue :argue: :laughing4:
You're right Budnick-I broke it racing it.
It's not a full-blown race car and I need a clutch that will cope with racing, but it will mainly be used on the street.
I'm not concerned if it's a bit harsh on the street but better than an on/ off switch would be nice :icon_wink:
My tyres are street legal- just... They don't have any 'give' on the track.

The 10000rpm stuff looks great, also the McLeod adjustable sounds a good idea- best of both worlds?
Keep the info coming gents, loving it so far!
Coloradodave- I will sort out my flywheel, current one is not 'fit for purpose'.
 
d.b. said:
I'm new to American forums, I'd heard you guys like to argue :argue: :laughing4:
You're right Budnick-I broke it racing it.
It's not a full-blown race car and I need a clutch that will cope with racing, but it will mainly be used on the street.
I'm not concerned if it's a bit harsh on the street but better than an on/ off switch would be nice :icon_wink:
My tyres are street legal- just... They don't have any 'give' on the track.

The 10000rpm stuff looks great, also the McLeod adjustable sounds a good idea- best of both worlds?
Keep the info coming gents, loving it so far!
Coloradodave- I will sort out my flywheel, current one is not 'fit for purpose'.
Click to expand...

d.b. That's not arguing, that's a discussion, with vastly differences of opinions...LOL...
 
"31" x 16.5" Street ET's.
This setup was fine for moderate street use but my 1st outing to the dragstrip blew the clutch away on my 1st run"

Budnicks: I DID read the post. NO slicks, MODERATE street use, FIRST run at the strip. Just for discussion...lol
 
Ok not slicks, But M/T Street Et's are Drag radials aren't they ?? a little better traction than a normal street tire for sure...
 
Yes and yes... I run them on my street car, although I'll give you that they're not 16" wide...lol I'm sure a lot of guys who 'light them up' on the street are surprised by the hook available on a properly prepared drag strip. Still, I'll stand by MY OPINION that an SFI flywheel, a Centerline clutch and a scattershield will do yeoman's duty on a street car that is occassionally run down the strip. As you said, opinions WILL vary. One of my favorite sayings is "Variety is the spice of life". Here's to a hearty discussion...
 
Why is this so complicated? Get yourself a good lakewood scattershield and blockplate, SFI flywheel, and a decent clutch!? It isn't like you're making 800HP in a full drag application or you wouldn't be running the A833 in the first place. I'm running a Centerforce DFX clutch, stated, to be good to 600+HP by Centerforce but I believe it may only come in 11" as I am using that setup on my Mopar other than 10.5". Their dual friction line up is great as well, and would probably serve its purpose in your type of application. I am using a RAM billet steel SFI flywheel as well and ARP bolts to hold everything together. It is much better to have the clutch slip a lil' than to have parts breaking left and right from a dead hook anyways; as you have well enough tire to solve any traction issues at your power level.
 
Wow, okay, after searching that does make a major difference! Sorry, I am running a 23 spline with 11" clutch (using a 383 143 tooth SFI billet steel flywheel). Had no idea about the 18 spline clutch offerings for the SBM. I paid $450 for the clutch kit w/o TOB and $350 for my flywheel. So, $800-$900 for a standard application. $1,200 doesn't seem unreasonable when you think you are nearly asking for something 'custom' order.. Funny thing is, if you had a 23 spline you'd have no problems it seems..
 
Sweet5ltr said:
Wow, okay, after searching that does make a major difference! Sorry, I am running a 23 spline with 11" clutch (using a 383 143 tooth SFI billet steel flywheel). Had no idea about the 18 spline clutch offerings for the SBM. I paid $450 for the clutch kit w/o TOB and $350 for my flywheel. So, $800-$900 for a standard application. $1,200 doesn't seem unreasonable when you think you are nearly asking for something 'custom' order.. Funny thing is, if you had a 23 spline you'd have no problems it seems..
Click to expand...

Tell me about it! ;-)
 
I just bought a Ram Powergrip HD (not Powergrip, Powergrip HD they are different) for my street/strip car along with their billet flywheel, they say not to use other flywheels because some aren't hard enough, I needed an SFI flywheel anyway. Clutch was about 500, flywheel 300. They say its good to 650 RWHP. 650 RWHP is probably a stretch, but its a segmented face clutch with an aggressive sintered iron/cerametallic blend and a 2800 lb borg and beck plate.

I haven't gotten it in yet, should be going in a few weeks so I can let you know then. But this seems to be the strongest clutch available that isn't twin disc/adjustable or a fully sintered iron disc (wont last more than a few miles) but it will grab HARD. I'd say it'd work great for you since you're not making a ton of power, I think it'll work good for my 550 hp 3800 lb 67 Plymouth. If not I will need to step up to a twin disc/adjustable. I haven't heard of any Mopar guys running it but lots of Foxbody Mustang and LS1 guys who smoked their CF dual friction and went to these RAVED about how hard it grabs, not ideal for drag racing a 4 speed but better than one that can't hold and the price is good. I was going to buy a car over the winter that had been a best of 10.97 on a Ram clutch, not sure which clutch exactly since it was installed YEARS ago but it wasn't a fully sintered iron disc so it must have been this or what was offered before this came out.

Excuse my ignorance since I live in big block land, but whats the problem running an 18 spline with a small block? Flywheel to flywheel is the same, no? 1966 Hemi 4 speed cars came with a 10.5 inch flywheel and an 18 spline, so that setup is out there. Ram sells it I believe, although it may be a scalloped 10.95 inch. Either way you should be able to get it. Just be careful when you order, good clutches and good people to deal with but theres alot of missinformation out there regarding different years/clutches/flywheels with Mopar, they made it confusing.

Nice 66 by the way!
 
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