4 speed conversion questions

[70RT4SPD]

Hello everyone i have a question regarding my latest adventure, I'm in the process of a restoration of my 65 coronet 440 model. It's originally a 318 poly 727 column shift car from Oklahoma. She's all stripped down in pieces, engine bay painted, new super stock suspension and complete brake overhaul, and now just getting ready to do the exterior body work. I have a non-HP 64' 383 i'm having built with .030 forged flat tops, ported 906 heads, choppy comp cam, and some other performance goodies.

I've decided to install a 4 speed setup in it. What I have is a 69 B-body 833 23 spline trans that is currently being rebuilt, 70 aluminum 10 1/2" bell-housing w/ fork, mcclode flywheel (re-surfaced), complete pedal and linkage setup from a 64' plymouth and also a complete 11" dual friction centerforce clutch/pressure plate/ OEM flywheel and dust cover. I still need the floor hump, shifter and linkages, and some other odds and ends.

I'm at a fork in the road ( no pun intended) on what route to go, buy a cast 11" bell housing or get a 10 1/2" clutch to match my current one? Should I get 68-69 b-body shifter and linkages so they match the tranny or get the correct 64-65 setup? I know the tail shaft lenght's are different between tranny's but I will have a custom drive shaft made just not sure of the rear mount alignment? I'm sure there's other things i'm forgetting to mention?

Any help, tips, etc would be greatly appreciated. Thanks to all in advance.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

OK, my 2-cents.... The 11" clutch will hold better than a 10-1/2" BUT you cannot get a QuickBell bellhousing in 11". The older Lakewood bellhousings can go either 10-1/2" or 11". My 10-1/2" Centerforce is holding great (without nitrous so far), so I'm happy with it (not so much with the 10-1/2" Hays that lasted exactly one full throttle run for an 1/8-mile and 30 miles street driving).

I would not suggest running a 10-1/2" stock aluminum bellhousing because it offers almost no protection in a clutch/flywheel explosion & it just can't take the torque (I had one, cracked it, welded it up & then cracked it again....then went Lakewood). I've never had a 64/65 B-body, so I'm not exactly sure on the shifter, but I "think" you're OK with either shifter/linkage (assuming the front shifter mounting holes are the same distance back from the front face/engine side of the transmission in 69 vs. 64/65), so personally, I'd go with the correct 64/65 setup unless it's crazy expensive or hard to find. As far as transmission mounts, I "think" there are only two versions, but I could be wrong. I've got a '67 trans in my '70 right now and I just got a different cross-member and everything was kosher. Hope this helps a little at least.

 

[70RT4SPD]

Thanks I appreciate it, i'm leaning towards the 11" setup, brewers has a refurbished cast 11" bellhousing for 400$, its expensive but, hey if you wanna play you gotta pay!

 

[64 Post]

Call Wayne Brewer at Brewer's Performance in Ohio and he'll make sure you have the correct parts with regard to linkage and such. He usually stock ALL the parts to do a change over.

 

[Meep-Meep]

I ran a 2800 lb McLeod 10.5" behind my warmed over 383 then behind my old Max Wedge and nothing bad ever happened.