4-speed transmission question

[67 GTX]

I know with Muncie transmissions, since it's aluminum, you aren't supposed to draw the trans into the bell-housing with the bolts.

But since the A833 is iron, can it be drawn in with bolts?

When I test fitted it, even when the input shaft was lined up with the pilot bushing, the trans still had to be drawn in with the bolts.

The pilot bushing is new and smooth, and the input shaft is also smooth.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

 

[Hemi Rebel]

It didnt slide in? You are going to have issues. If the only way it would go together is to use the bolts to draw it in, the input shaft is now stuck in the crank. The problem is the hole in the crank is too tight and is squeezes down on the pilot bushing. I would pull it back apart and clearance it enough for the input shaft to slide freely in the bushing

 

[Photon440]

Is it possible that the crank was originally from an automatic and therefore not finish bored for the bushing? I had this problem, found an undersized pilot bushing designed for this application.

 

[Daves69]

Make sure you have adequate depth for the input shaft first. A few simple measurements is all it takes along with some ability to add and subtract. Some auto cranks may not have the depth as well as the diameter. If you have enough depth for the input and the bushing is too tight try a reamer.
Another option is the roller bearing that gets pressed in the converter pilot hole when not using a bushing.
Reference ........................
http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/4sptech.shtml

 

[wannabdukeboy1969]

I fought with my 883a for two days trying to get everything lined up. By luck I had an old main shaft out of and old 883a that I had scattered years ago. I threw away the plastic alinement tool that Centerforce provided and used the old shaft instead. And everything went together smoothly.

 

[BCBOUND]

did you check that the hole in the bellhousing matches the input bearing retainer diameter on the trans?

 

[67 GTX]

I believe the crank is set up ok, since it was all operating properly when I pulled it all apart. I changed the pilot bushing since I didn't know how old the old one was. The bellhousing seems to match the input bearing retainer diameter on the trans.

I cleaned up any burs inside the crank before I installed the pilot bushing. Once I did that, with the addition of some grease, I was able to install the bushing without too much difficulty.

After I test fitted it and drew it in, with a little wiggling I was able to remove the trans. The input shaft didn't seem too stuck.

 

[Daves69]

The input shaft didn't seem too stuck.

The last thing you need is that bushing seizing on the input shaft. I'd be a little generous on the clearance.

 

[Meep-Meep]

You can draw it in if the resistance is fairly low and of course you cleared all the other potential disasters as noted above. Sometimes it's just dragging on the bore of the bell housing, or the angle of the dangle isn't quite right. Hard to see how lined up you are lying under the car. Get the bolts started and grab the tail housing and give it a strong wiggle. Sometimes that helps you to feel where things are and it might just pop in. You can also have someone step on the clutch while the input is engaged to the splines. If the disc is slightly misaligned that will free things up right away.

 

[67 GTX]

So then you guys think it is safe to draw the trans in with the bolts?

 

[Meep-Meep]

I have done it and I hope you know when to stop if things don't feel right. Be careful.

 

[Daves69]

So then you guys think it is safe to draw the trans in with the bolts?

Are you talking an eighth inch or three quarter inch?
Are the two locating pins still in the block mating face that line up the bell housing?
If the input shaft hasn't been tampered with it should have a "can't miss" taper. You've already stated it fits in.
Are you in the splines of the clutch disk? If so, see post 9. Draw it slow and even and shake it.