426 Gen III in 1964 Dodge 330

[McPorGuy]

What would be your technical feedback on the following Gen III installation. Feasible? Any suggested parts or tips? All input is much appreciated. Any concerns about engine and trans fit?

The car will be used for street driving and shows. The desire is to have good horsepower on tap, smoother idle than an equivalent HP pushrod engine, reasonably low RPMs at highway speeds, reasonable gas mileage.

1964 Dodge 330 sedan. The suspension has been gone through with QA1s and stiffened frame. 3:55 rear posi.

Blueprint Gen III 426 610 HP + TKX 5sp.

US Car Tool KFrame notch, USCT Gen III swap mount kit - these seem to allow fore and aft engine location adjustment

Trans crossmember - ??? Maybe use the American Powertrain adjustable?

Malwood hydraulic clutch - other suggestions?

PS - Bergman kit w shaft

AC - Vintage

Thanks for your input.

 

[70chall440]

My "advice" is to buy in kits or parts from like manufacturers; i.e. if you use TTI headers use their motor mounts because they "should" work together and if they don't you can call them. If you use part X and part Y together and have an issue you will have little recourse.

Also try and find like builds and emulate at least in part what was already done.

In my 71 Charger 5.7 build I used a lot of Holley parts such as their mid mount accessories system, oil pan, intake, ECU, AC comp, Alt, PS, etc. They spend a considerable amount of time developing these parts for specific applications and they also will support them.

With the trans, same deal buy a "kit" that includes the clutch/flywheel/PP and a Hyd TB system. Also these typically come with a bellhousing and a trans mount and provide an option for you to purchase a drive shaft once you get to that stage.

In the world today you do not really have to invent things on your own, you can if you like but there are a lot of things out there that are specific to your application (or close). Point in case you can buy a "hemi swap" radiator from Cold Case (and I am sure others) rather than try and find something that you can make work.

Make sure to get a good brake system, I have fabricated my own, cobbled together parts/pieces from other platforms and out right bought full systems from the likes of Wilwood. Wilwood and others are the "easy" button but tend to require green bearings be used in the rear. Doc Diff sells kits which do not require this but don't look as sexy.

Think of the car in terms of systems. Each system must work well with others so take the time to plan it all out especially things like the wiring and plumbing. When it comes to the wiring you need to spend some time to really think about all of your desired and possible electrical requirements so that you can wire the car to support that the first time. Again, point-in-case I always wire in a small fuse panel in the front of the car that will provide connection points for a ground, constant 12V and switched 12V. I also run separate charging and starting circuits as I put my battery in the trunk.

Lastly, really spend some time to think about what you want this car to be and do. Come up with a concept of what the final project needs to be, how it has to perform, etc. as this will drive what parts you will need and how the car will need to be built. If it is going to be a show car then it will probably need to be built several times to ensure all of your fabrication is done which includes wiring and plumbing prior to final assembly. If it is going to be more of a driver but look decent then you can probably get it done quicker as you are not afraid of drilling a hole or scratching the paint in the engine compartment.

 

[McPorGuy]

Thanks 70chal440.

I agree on getting kits. I haven't found complete swap kits for a 1964 as easy to find at later year Mopars.

The motor mount, K frame, trans cross member is where I'm trying to find a proven solution.

Motor mounts
- Mancini has a swap motor mount that states that it requires TTI headers. Not sure if the pan will fit.
- USCT has a swap motor mount that allows 2" of fore aft adjustment.

USCT has a K frame notch kit to clear the pan that requires modifying the K frame

Holley has some swap oil pans that might clear the stock K frame.

QA1 has a 1966 and later tubular K frame.

What looks best on paper is:

- USCT swap adjustable motor mount - USCTAM2047-Gen3 Hemi Swap Mount kit to OEM K-frame B C E Bod
- Holley mid-sump oil pan - Holley Oil Pan, HEMI Non-VVT, Mid Sump Retrofit
- Blueprint 426 Gen III + TKX - Chrysler Hemi Compatible 426 c.i. Engine and TKX Manual Transmission - 610 HP - Standard Edition Builder Series with Black Pulley Kit - Fuel Injected
I'm not sure about the trans cross member. Perhaps something like this can work? American Powertrain XFUN-10001S American Powertrain X-Factor Stretch Crossmembers | Summit Racing

Feedback on what is more certain to work would be much appreciated.

 

[What’s up dock]

Wise info from 70chall440.
I don't think you will find a kit for the 62-65 cars. Like you said, they target the 66-70 crowd. Bolting in the QA1 k-frame is easy(direct bolt-in), and allows the use of the rest of the 66-70 items. It moves the engine back a little, allowing for more cooling choices. I have had the USCT motor mounts in hand, and I like them. Next build I will try them.
I just did a 63 ply wagon for a friend, 6.4 swap, 727, vintage air, borgeson box, holley mounts.....all straight forward and simple. From the pics of the blueprint engine, it uses a mid sump pan, so that will work. I did use the holley manifolds on his, which made it easier to deal with.
The 62-65 trans cross member has a different bolt pattern than 66-70, I believe it was just the outer 2 bolts. For the TKX trans cross member, you can probably modify the holley crossmember, drilling 2 new holes.
https://www.holley.com/products/engine_swap_parts/hemi_swap_systems/parts/BHS532
and this:
https://www.holley.com/products/engine_swap_parts/hemi_swap_systems/parts/BHS563

 

[McPorGuy]

Thanks for the feedback.

I've made a bit of progress calling the vendors and am getting ready to start ordering parts. A couple of items I keep working on or thinks about are.

- The Blueprint engine and TKX package require a hydraulic clutch and drive by wire. The Malwood clutch pedal seems like a solution 1962-65 B-BODY MOPAR -Plymouth Satellite Coronet Charger Plymouth GTX – Hydraulic Master Cylinder Clutch Pedal Kit - MalWood USA

Perhaps the Holley DBW pedal will work? Clayton Machine Works CDBW-HOLLEY01B Clayton Machine Drive-By-Wire Electronic Throttle Assemblies | Summit Racing