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440 Block: Bellhousing Dowel Pins -Ever replaced?

watermelon

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Hello,

Has anyone ever replaced the bellhousing dowel pins on a 440 block?

Are they easy to remove if need be? Can they be tapped out or do they have to be pulled out?

I am asking because I am considering installing a Keisler 5 speed transmission in my 66 Coronet. Part of the procedure is aligining the bellhousing on the block to a certain spec. The dowel pins will need to be changed if spec is not met.


Thanks,

watermelon
 
Use a large pair of diagonal cutters grab the pin close to the bottom, put a thin piece of metal under to protect the block and push down on the handles to pry pin up. This will damage pin so it may not be reusable.
 
I just did mine. The right side is easy. You can use a drift from the backside of the pin as the hole is drilled through (I did have to heat the area a bit). The left one would not budge. It is in a blind hole. I ended up welding a very heavy washer to it and made a small pickle fork to drive between the block and washer, after heating the block a bit. Worked well. Do not use the Lakewood adjustable dowels. You'll never turn them.
 
I couldn't get out the one that goes in the blind hole, so I drilled a hole all the way through, then tapped 1/4" threads in the hole. I found a 1/4" bolt with threads longer than the dowel pin and screwed it into the dowel pin. The 1/4" bolt bottomed out in the blind hole and forced the dowel pin out.
 
Hello,

Has anyone ever replaced the bellhousing dowel pins on a 440 block?

Are they easy to remove if need be? Can they be tapped out or do they have to be pulled out?

I am asking because I am considering installing a Keisler 5 speed transmission in my 66 Coronet. Part of the procedure is aligining the bellhousing on the block to a certain spec. The dowel pins will need to be changed if spec is not met.


Thanks,

watermelon
ANY bell housing should be checked before installing! IIRC, you don't want anymore than .005" runout in the bell housing fit and the closer the better but first off, mic the fit to make sure it's round cause if it isn't, you could chase your tail a lot....
 
I couldn't get out the one that goes in the blind hole, so I drilled a hole all the way through, then tapped 1/4" threads in the hole. I found a 1/4" bolt with threads longer than the dowel pin and screwed it into the dowel pin. The 1/4" bolt bottomed out in the blind hole and forced the dowel pin out.

I don't know if this is a silly question or not: Did you do the work above while the engine was in or out of the car?


ANY bell housing should be checked before installing! IIRC, you don't want anymore than .005" runout in the bell housing fit and the closer the better but first off, mic the fit to make sure it's round cause if it isn't, you could chase your tail a lot....

Yup. I will check the runout first for sure.

I've found a few videos on youtube that showed the process. It didn't look that bad.

I just gotta work up the nerve to order the transmission kit.
 
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