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440 build- feedback please!

MoparBill

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I will be taking my 440 to a local engine builder for a rebuild. He's a knowledgeable guy with a good reputation for building Mopar engines, but I thought I'd ask for feedback here as well.
The motor is a 68 440, forged crank, 906 heads, out of a 68 Fury. It has a standard bore and looks like it's never been apart.
The car is a 69 RoadRunner, 4 speed car with factory 3.91 gears. It will be street driven only. I want it to look stock, so it'll have HP exhaust and the correct iron intake. I know these items could be replaced to make more HP, but I want a stock look.
The builder recommends the heads have stainless valves put in- 2.14 and 1.81s with moly retainers and 10 degree locks. He also wants to bore it .030 to make sure the cylinders are straight and true, and use Icon 9.8:1 pistons from Mancini. He picked the Extreme Energy 275 cam which has .525 lift. I will use Mopar electronic ignition. Does this combo sound like the parts will all work together? Will stock length moly pushrods work with .525 lift?
Any input is much appreciated! Any criticism is welcome, as well as carb size recommendations.
 
I have a stock bore 440 that came out of a New Yorker with mild ported 516 heads and 2.08/1.74 valves, titanium retainers (had em on the shelf), Hemi grind cam, adjustable rockers (again, on the shelf). Bore it .030 if it needs it but if the miles are low, it probably doesn't. It's easier to just bore it than it is to check it and most shops make money on machine work and not checking it. Mine didn't need it. Also, you really don't need larger valves unless the seats are beat down or valves burned and stock exhaust valves are stainless from the factory but if they are replaced, then 10 degree locks are pretty much standard on the larger valves but again, it's not needed in a stock type mild performance build.

What is the compression height of the pistons? Don't go by the advertised compression ratio or you will most likely end up with less. 6 pack pistons have a 2.062 compression height for example. Anything that's much less than that will result in less than 9.8-1 with open chamber heads and composition gaskets. As for the stock push rods....that depends on what head gaskets are used and if the block is decked or heads milled and you can't really know until you get to the point of assembly and then measure exactly what's needed.
 
Cranky- He says putting larger valves will make the job easier; he'll be making a new seat instead of replacing the old with hardened, and stainless valves will survive better with today's fuel. I agree that machine shops make money machining! He seems to think a lot of old cylinders are tapered or out of round.
 
Just wondering why you want the intake & exhaust to look stock on a 440 in a Road Runner. Unless its an A12 just being a 440 will not look stock.
 
If you are insisting on stock-looking how about an aftermarket aluminum intake painted engine color? I had an Edelbrock DP4B on my 383 and the turquoise paint made it look like a stock cast iron piece. If you are running a high lift cam and steep gears, the factory intake will choke off some power. Edelbrock Performer for a 440, for instance, is only $200 new at Summit.
 
I agree with the builder on the heads.I hope you are using HP exhaust manifolds,you will not be happy with anything less.The intake I wouldn't touch it.A good quality aluminum dp intake will suite you much better.This combo should make enough power to break just about every piece of drive train behind it.Really this combo should put in the 12 second range and be a ball to drive.
 
I was concerned about clearance issues with aftermarket intakes and the airgrabber setup- the 440 is already higher than the 383... will a dual plane aftermarket fit?
 
What's wrong with a factory cast iron intake? I'm running 12.80's with one and a .455" lift cam. With street tires and 3.55 gears I ran a 13.38 @ 109. I do have 2" headers and 3" exhaust all the way out so running the iron manifolds will slow you down a little but still should be a strong runner.

For unleaded gas you want the hard exhaust seats. 2.14 / 1.81 is not necessary but it is a good way to restore a sunk seat without putting seats in the intakes. I have the big valves in my heads but I also pocket ported them. The larger valves are not what dictates the push rod length, unless they are longer then stock. Hopefully one of the hit items on your engine build list is a set of iron adjustable rockers from Crane or Isky - or MoPar if you can find them. I'd fore-go the big valves and use that money towards the rockers and 3/8" push rods. I also think you can do with a different / smaller cam. Something with a 112 or higher lobe sep will work very well with the factory intake. The one you list I believe is a 110.

The basic hit list in my opinion for building a nice street engine:

Oil pickup opened up to 1/2".
Windage tray.
70 lb relief spring in stock pump.
Double roller chain.
Pocket port heads and back cut valves.
Balance assy.
Deck block
High strength rod bolts.
Match compression with cam.
Closed chamber heads to preserve compression without adding a big piston dome and put some quench in the chamber. The goal is a fast burning chamber.
 

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I took the shortblock to the builder saturday and it looks like #1 cylinder had a broken ring. The block will get bored to clean things up. Has anyone here used Icon pistons? I see them on the Mancini site but haven't heard any feedback on them. Any other recommendations? I'm running 906 heads (88cc) and want to keep around 9.5 - 10:1 CR.
 
They are a great middle of the line piston.I have seen some guys make big power with these pistons.
 
I took the shortblock to the builder saturday and it looks like #1 cylinder had a broken ring. The block will get bored to clean things up. Has anyone here used Icon pistons? I see them on the Mancini site but haven't heard any feedback on them. Any other recommendations? I'm running 906 heads (88cc) and want to keep around 9.5 - 10:1 CR.


I run icons on my stroker. So far so good. About 3k miles engine was completely disassembled. Looked perfect. 555 hp 10.5-1CR. So far so good.
 
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