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440 guidance?

cougar_cat_25

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Does anyone know what I should plan for when I put a 440/727 combo in a 1974 sat/roadrunner clone. Such as new engine mounts and where I can buy them at
 
Theres a place on the net, engineswaps.com I think it is. There also known by (Spelling!) Schmaucher creative services, that specialize in swap kits. I used them for my 79 Magnum to swap out a 318 to a 400. Everything worked excellent except the hose's for the A/C.

I also used them for my Duster swap. A slant 6 to a 318. (Geeee, where did I get the 318 from? LOL ) and again, like above, everything worked out great except the A/C lines.

There kit is approx. $150 w/$11 or so shipping to your door. The new mounts are power coated black and the instructions are very very good.

You'll need a drill, various size bits to drill a hole in the pearch from small to big and a cut off wheel. (A hack saw would do it, but that's work!)
They even give a template.

Tranny lines may have to be bent a slight bit. Nothing to worry about.

Engine to rad hose's may need to be addressed. Water outlet on the water pump may be an issue. Year dependent.
A 904 to 727 trans swap , if your current set up is a small block, will need to have the driveshaft shortened alittle.

Wiring harrness may need to be addressed a bit. Just splice and lengthen or shorten wires as needed. Just do the job right and well so there won't be an issue.
New heater hoses.
 
Yeah, it's really no big deal. I did a swap on a 68 Satellite wagon where I took out the 318/904 and installed a 440+6/727 and still left the p/s, p/b, and a/c. In that case I used the same trans mount and motor pads, only changing the plates that attach to the block. I had to lengthen the distributor lead, which I think was the only wiring change I had to make. Obviously the exhaust will need to be redone, as well as the driveshaft like rumblefish already said.

All in all it's a pretty easy swap to do. And again like rumblefish I have a 72 Duster that has a 360 in it using Schumacher mounts.

http://www.engine-swaps.com/
 
thanks for all the info. my dad gave me his satellite when i mentioned restoring it, so might as well go big or go home :)
 
About your username. You have a Cougar? Just wondering cause I recently acquired an 88 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe 5 speed
 
There is what looks like a 1967 Cougar for sale down the street, is it worth taking a look at?
 
I think 67 was the first year. It could be something cool, just like that xxxx Mopar in the field around the corner. I believe those Cougars had hide away headlights and sequential tail lights, and general construction wasn't much different than a Mustang.

Like Mopars, Cougars have a loyal and somewhat disturbed following:grin: And like Mopars it might be worth picking up....depending on what, and how much. There were some performance versions of Cougars.

I've owned 4 Mustangs (including my current GT) and I just bought this Tbird, but I'm not a Ford guy. I'm a car guy who likes Mopars best.

Go have a look
 
Ill stop on the way home and take a look at it, it definitely has hideaway headlights.
 
Engine swap!

Your change over is so simple it hurts. You can buy big block 74 Road Runner spool mounts at autozone for under $40.00. Your trans mount is the same.
Mancinie racing has the 727, small ujoint you need for about $30.00. Using stock spool mounts [the way those things are made anything else is a waste of money] you don't have to drill holes. You'll need a 72 or newer 400 or 440 water pump housing. That's the year big blocks went to the passenmger side lower radiator hose. On your A/C lines you'll need to measure how much longer the lowside line needs to be [ the highside with a little routing will be fine]
Remove the lowside line and put it in a vice at first one bend then the other.
Heat each bend one at a time until you can push some of the bend out. You'll find that it will give you enough to hook it back up. And if you sand and point the line no one can tell what you did. Have a locale driveline shop shorten your drive shaft. Put the yoke in the trans and pull it out one inch. Now measure from the center of the ujoint hole to the center of the rear ujoint hole. That is what you give the shop and tell them its ujoint center to center. You will have to make most of your engine wires longer. To do that cut about 6 inches back from the wire connector. splice the new piece of wire between the end and the cars wire. Be sure to use sold. and shrink sleeves to prevent shorts. After you tape the harness back up only you will know what you did. Start to end the wires will be the same color and habve the correct ends.
 
$40 from autozone, sweeeeet. I didn't realize the K frame was the same for big and small blocks in the B bodies. I know it's the same for E bodies and that trick works.
 
rumble, I just figured you knew of some change they had made to them along the way. Unlike the A's, the B's had always had the same K for V8s....except the Hemi.
 
Naaaa, I didn't know that. So my Magnum has a K-frame that simply needs a big block motor mount to put in a big block from a small block powered car?
 
Not all K-members are equal. Some years the K-member is the same on B body small blocks and big blocks and some years they are not. Some A-bodies use different K-members depending on if they have power steering or not. This information comes from the mopar K-member frame guide for years 1964 thru 1974. Happy motoring!!
 
Not all K-members are equal. Some years the K-member is the same on B body small blocks and big blocks and some years they are not. Some A-bodies use different K-members depending on if they have power steering or not. This information comes from the mopar K-member frame guide for years 1964 thru 1974. Happy motoring!!


Interesting. If you've got it, can you post it?
 
I will try to post it this weekend. I have a copy, just have to scan it and post it.
 
here is the K-member part numbers by year and motor. I only had 1964 to 1974.

12-05-2008 07;30;57PM_edited.jpg


12-05-2008 07;30;57PM.jpg
 
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