440 in a 318 1967 B-Body

[tag]

I have a 1967 Satellite, originally a 318 car which has been converted to a 440. The original 440 was out of an Imperial, but I've gone nuts with it after it started getting some rod knock and I rebuilt it (Aluminum RPM Performer Edelbrock heads, RPM Performer intake, Lunati 289° .513/.533 cam, Harland Sharp Roller Rockers, Hooker Headers, so on, so forth).

The new motor is a lot ligher than the previous, but both of them have had this slightly annoying problem where the steering centerlink brushes up against the bottom of the oil pan. Now, I've read and researched extensively in designing and building this motor and this car and I deliberately kept the stock 318 torsion bars — They give the car a lower stance, and they help increase the chances of my tires being on the ground (if I can get the thing to hook up)...

But I was wondering, what's the best way to keep the cross member off the oil pan?

 

[rumblefish360]

Wait, the engines cradle is on or touching the oil pan?

New engine mounts and the possible use of shims.

This should also fix the center link issue.

 

[YY1]

If it's the oil pan hitting the center link, what oil pan is on the engine?

IIRC a "402" pan is "correct" for that car.

 

[tag]

It's whatever oil pan was on the 1967 Imperial, with the dents pounded out of it. The stock oil pan hardly has clearance for the oil pickup, they nearly touch — and it's not an in any way oversized pan, so I don't think I can shorten that.

Perhaps shims at the motor mounts, but I am a little worried about the hood clearance. It has an RPM Performer intake and RPM Performer heads, which stand a fair bit taller than stock.

Only the centerlink is touching the pan, everything else is clear.

If it's the oil pan hitting the center link, what oil pan is on the engine?

IIRC a "402" pan is "correct" for that car.