440 motor and trans

[jimm69]

I bought a 69 Roadrunner and original drivetrain was long gone. I was given a motor and trans with the car. I was told the motor was a 69 440 and trans was a 727. The combo was supposed to be out of a 69 Newport. this is my first Mopar so forgive me for being ignorant. How can I verify the info I was given? I did run the casting numbers against some ebay ads and seem confident it is a 440. Casting date is 1-16-68 so obviously the motor is a 68 and not 69. Only numbers I can find on the trans are 900-2 on the case. I did bolt the motor and trans in the car for fitment before working on the body and they both fit with no issues. Any advice?

Also, part 2 of the question is that I want to get the motor rebuilt. Just looking for a nice driver with say 400-450 hp. Any advice? what should I invest in and what would be reusable?

 

[440beep]

On the driver side of the tranny case, towards the front on the side (where all the linkage attaches), you should be able to see "727" on the case, if its a 727.

 

[super-bee_ski]

Hi Jim,
Well, the "Trans" has numbers on the side...
And a date code...

More on that in a minute.

Building a 440 is common, in fact, many "builds" are goining on right now on this forum.
Decide:
1. Horse Power
2. Torque

Check out HT 413s 440 build (451) right now on the forum.

Now to identify the 727 trans: http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?17287-Your-Guide-to-the-727-904-transmission

Try this link right here on the "For B Bodies Only" forum.

 

[jimm69]

regarding the motor.....i talked to an engine builder and told him what I have. he has a block on the shelf that is a 76 dated motor from a motor home. the motor I have is a 1968 440 out of a newport or something. the builder said he could go ahead and get started on the work using his 76 motorhome block and would just take my block as a core. since my car is not a numbers matching car, is there any reason not to do the swap? he said the only advantage for him is that the 68 block might be worth more to a customer looking for a period correct block. is this true or is the 68 block just a better block and I should just disassemble that one and take it to him?

 

[hunt2elk]

If it was me, I would use your 68 block. I believe the motor home blocks had some extra external bosses cast into them. I'm sure someone who knows for certain will chime in. Also a block cast in 68 definitely could have left the factory in a 69 model car.

 

[IQ52]

regarding the motor.....i talked to an engine builder and told him what I have. he has a block on the shelf that is a 76 dated motor from a motor home. the motor I have is a 1968 440 out of a newport or something. the builder said he could go ahead and get started on the work using his 76 motorhome block and would just take my block as a core. since my car is not a numbers matching car, is there any reason not to do the swap? he said the only advantage for him is that the 68 block might be worth more to a customer looking for a period correct block. is this true or is the 68 block just a better block and I should just disassemble that one and take it to him?

I would say he is giving you the truth. There is more call for a 1968 model year block for restoration purposes, but it isn't superior in strength or design.

 

[Cranky]

There's an ID pad on the top left of the block just in front of the gasket rail where the valley pan goes. What are the numbers there? Casting dates are usually early and one that was cast in Jan of 68 very well could have made it's way into a 69 car. And there's no way I'd trade for a mid 70's block just because of the reason he gave you. Look around that shop and see what's in it. Is he a Mopar shop or not. Most are not but many of them that are will usually have other brands in the works but will also have the 'stamp' of Mopar in there. Shops that cater to the Mopar crowd are usually proud of that fact and it will show but even that doesn't mean it's a good shop. Ask around if you haven't already and find out what his reputation is.

 

[Daves69]

The cast date is a plus and could increase value in a sale. Kudos to the builder for his mention of it. I'd want to know current cylinder bore size and if main caps are with the '76 block. Keep the rotating stuff together as it is likely a forged crank.

440 sources take on engine blocks......................

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=109ops:

sorry wrong link, try this.......


http://www.440source.com/blockinfo.htm

 

[jimm69]

the shop only does mopars. he must have had at least 6 hemis in various stages in the room where we talked to the owner in. i have heard good things about him and that is the reason i wanted to talk to him. i am just not sure what direction to go. my motor has a casting date of 1-16-68. i am not concerned about matching the dates because nothing about the car is matching numbers. In fact, it is a roadrunner with a 440 4bbl. I believe the only 440 in a RR was a 6 pack so I am not period correct right off the bat. The only reason I am asking about this is because the guy that sold me the car made it a point to tell me it was a 68 motor. I just didnt know if that block was a better quality motor or if he was telling me that because it would be better to have a period correct motor in the car. Cranky, I will check the other numbers you were talking about tonite.

- - - Updated - - -

Daves69, the builder was going to build me a stroker, so the crank would be history.

 

[Durandal25]

Jim,

Putting a 440, or any engine together, is always cool, but the basics are pretty much the same for engine builders sir. The early 440 blocks are pretty much the same as the late 7o's units.....the main difference being some porting on the cooling holes and some casting reinforcement....but given your application, it should not be an issue....as long as the 440 block you have is ok already. Have you had it checked out yet? It will need all the normal machining ect to get it dialed in. I just did one last year and it turned out awesome, but there were challenges along the way.

 

[jimm69]

I have not even opened up my motor. the seller claimed the motor was removed from the car in the 70's and has been sitting ever since. the motor was basically just cut out of the car with all accessories attached and the wiring cut. it does turn over but that is all i know about it. I just removed the transmission and put it on my engine stand. started shopping for an engine builder. like I said, builder suggested in the interest of time, he could get started using his block and keep mine as core. just looking for opinions on whether I should use mine or just go ahead and use his and give mine up for core. What were your challenges? Do, Durandal25, are you saying the older blocks are better or are the newer blocks better?

 

[Durandal25]

....given that you are not going for a numbers build, I'd price what he has vs the unknown, as the cost may be more in your favor. Hauling a 440 around and the labor to take it apart and then tank it ect would outweigh the date stamp. 440 Source's site details block variances in detail, but if the builder feels his block is tested and sound, that may be far more cost effective sir.....

 

[jimm69]

I think I am just going to use my 68 block. Thanks to everyone that chimed in. I think that i might be better off in the long run if or when I decide to sell the car, the motor would at least be period correct. Another thing in my favor are that all the accessories are currently bolted on this block and I know they work. Just in case something might be different on the newer block, I dont have to worry about a problem surfacing and trying to find all the brackets and such.

 

[idrivemopar]

I don't know about you, but it always bugs me when someone wants to replace what you have with something else, and he may be correct, it might be cheaper and not a big deal, but I think you made the right choice to use the 68 block. If you can turn the motor, then its not seized, and hopefully the internals are good condition and its not cracked. My 340 sat in a garage for over 25 years with no plugs or cover on the intake, and it was just fine when I had it rebuilt and it runs strong now!!!