I'm sure they've worked for some, and I probably just got a bum set...but your hood will thank you to not take the chance
440 Motor Mounts
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Beautiful. Like a big piece of orange candy...
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Order canceled per your advice.
I'm SO disappointed! It seems like such a good idea.
So what are the best mounts that won't rattle my windshield, but won't make me feel stupid for changing out motor mounts that aren't broken (regular rubber)?
I'm SO disappointed! It seems like such a good idea.
So what are the best mounts that won't rattle my windshield, but won't make me feel stupid for changing out motor mounts that aren't broken (regular rubber)?
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Yeah, especially the "custom" hood for clearance for the Weiand 6bbl intake and Air Grabber setup!I'm sure they've worked for some, and I probably just got a bum set...but your hood will thank you to not take the chance
Well I think the only safe bet is a solid at least on the driver side. What some guys do is run a bolt through the stock mount, with a nylon locknut on one side and a countersunk head. Leave the nut a turn or two loose so it's not 'solid' per se but it will prevent any lifting when you're jumping on it. But, that means drilling through the mount bracket and/or K-frame so the nut has clearance.
I haven't installed the Moroso solids yet, but from riding in other's hotrods the vibration wasn't bad like people say so I'm hoping it works that way for me too!
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I think I'm going to just bite the bullet and get the Mancini poly mounts.
Ouch, but cheaper than bodywork, and they shouldn't transfer vibration as bad as solid mounts.
Last time I went to poly mounts on the engine and transmission was my 89 Conquest TSi...went from "normal" sounding to nuts and bolts in a blender!
I'm liking these, and I'll call Mancini tomorrow since I can't seem to buy them from their website, my cart won't load.
Geesh! $219...
Seems like all the Shumacher stuff has been unobtanium lately...yeah I'd call to see if they actually have any.
chignikred
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Shumacher is trying to sell the business, and has let inventory levels fall to zero. He moved also.
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My set up with stock motor mounts and a Schumacher torque strap. Works great. BTW I found NOS mounts, made in the USA. Later ones were more troublesome with breaking.
It's just puzzling that there were two companies out there making mounts and torque straps and all of a sudden, when you look for them, they're not available anymore.
Here's my Schumacher, modified E body kit I found on ebay for half the cost.
It's just puzzling that there were two companies out there making mounts and torque straps and all of a sudden, when you look for them, they're not available anymore.
Here's my Schumacher, modified E body kit I found on ebay for half the cost.
67SniperHockey
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I’ve literally had solid steel mounts welded to the K member with a bolt (solid mount - not street application), have also used chain, and you can get creative on the drivers side for security and add a thick cable with proper ends from the bolt head on the stock mount and weld a threaded rod (off the frame or a-arm) to secure the other end to. All depends what you want and if you care about looks - or if you just want to replace the actual mounts.
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The only reason why I'm replacing the mounts is because of replacing the K-Member. I haven't had any problems with the ones on it.
I am, however, having split mono leaf springs, sliders, Assassin traction bars, and a electronically timed hydraulic clutch launch control system installed, and 4 wheel disc brakes and line lock, SO I'm about to be putting more lifting force on that driver's side mount than ever.
Still, if I see 12 track nights a year, that would be about right, with maybe 8 runs per trip. Mostly Cruisin the Coast and road trippin'...
I'm going to check with Mancini.
Any other sources for high quality mounts, that can either stay in place with the appx 700+ ft lbs beast 541 engine or be reasonably priced and hold up until I do the swap?
I am, however, having split mono leaf springs, sliders, Assassin traction bars, and a electronically timed hydraulic clutch launch control system installed, and 4 wheel disc brakes and line lock, SO I'm about to be putting more lifting force on that driver's side mount than ever.
Still, if I see 12 track nights a year, that would be about right, with maybe 8 runs per trip. Mostly Cruisin the Coast and road trippin'...
I'm going to check with Mancini.
Any other sources for high quality mounts, that can either stay in place with the appx 700+ ft lbs beast 541 engine or be reasonably priced and hold up until I do the swap?
383man
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I was curious if you race your car or do hard launches with sticky tires ? I am wondering how strong that torque strap is if you use stock mounts with it and race the car ? It may be strong but it just don't look super strong to me but I could be wrong ? Ron
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Hey Ron!
I haven't made any passes just yet. I just installed a new ring and pinion so that's prolonging any hard launches until I break them in good. Always something but the day is coming.
The torque strap is really beefy. I would be more concerned about the ear on the block holding up. It's an auto so no bang shifting like a manual. Maybe South Mountain next month if I can get some more miles on this gear set.
I ran a '64 "back in the day". Built 383, auto, 456 Dana, ran it in the low thirteens and it only had factory mounts. I'm thinking they were original mounts also. I didn't even have a chain on it, never gave it a thought!
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I wound up buying a pair of Mity Mounts. They appear to be very similar to the countersunk head bolts through the mount plates add washers idea, although I know that they are a little different in actuality. I think that it's the best solution for me.
451Mopar
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Those interlocking poly mounts are good but expensive.
I bought a set, but only put one on the drivers side, and a regular mount on the passenger side.
That way I was able to do the Charger and the Coronet.
I have also drilled and countersunk stock type mounts to accept a bolt with countersink head, but those go all the way through the engine mounting bracket with a self locking nut on the end. Self locking nut is key because you don't want to compress the mount putting the nut on.
I used 3/8"x24TPI flat head cap screws with allen hex drive, 82 degree countersink. I din't recall the length, I think 2" minimum?
The nuts were 3/8x24tpi https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I2VTOHE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I bought a set, but only put one on the drivers side, and a regular mount on the passenger side.
That way I was able to do the Charger and the Coronet.
I have also drilled and countersunk stock type mounts to accept a bolt with countersink head, but those go all the way through the engine mounting bracket with a self locking nut on the end. Self locking nut is key because you don't want to compress the mount putting the nut on.
I used 3/8"x24TPI flat head cap screws with allen hex drive, 82 degree countersink. I din't recall the length, I think 2" minimum?
The nuts were 3/8x24tpi https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I2VTOHE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thought I'd update this for general info. Got my 505" in and running with the Moroso solid mounts on both sides, $35 for the pair and had them powdercoated for $5 each. Upon first test drive, they did admittedly bug me a little... Not so much that I felt a bunch of harsh vibration, but more vibrating noises and rattles in various places that weren't there before.
So, I pulled out the PS mount and re-installed the factory biscuit-style on just that side, and BAM! Love it now. Took care of the extra annoyances, and with the Moroso mount still on the DS it's rock solid.
So, I pulled out the PS mount and re-installed the factory biscuit-style on just that side, and BAM! Love it now. Took care of the extra annoyances, and with the Moroso mount still on the DS it's rock solid.
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Good to know! Thanks a LOT!
I have had the Mity Mounts installed as part of the QA1 K-member and front suspension installation, both sides.
I may go the way you have, when the time comes for the 541 to go in, keeping the Mity Mount on the Passenger Side. Nothing wrong with the factory style mounts that were on it, and I've done a number of burnouts and hard runs, WOT power shifting, etc, but I don't know how old they are, and since they had to be "touched" and I've added all of the traction aids, frame strengthening and stiffening and launch control, I figured now would be a good time. I'll ask the mechanic what he can come up with for now for a brace or turnbuckle/safety measure, and see what he says.
Good to know! Thanks a LOT!
I have had the Mity Mounts installed as part of the QA1 K-member and front suspension installation, both sides.
I may go the way you have, when the time comes for the 541 to go in, keeping the Mity Mount on the Passenger Side. Nothing wrong with the factory style mounts that were on it, and I've done a number of burnouts and hard runs, WOT power shifting, etc, but I don't know how old they are, and since they had to be "touched" and I've added all of the traction aids, frame strengthening and stiffening and launch control, I figured now would be a good time. I'll ask the mechanic what he can come up with for now for a brace or turnbuckle/safety measure, and see what he says.
As long as you reinforce that driver side, you should have no problems
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