440 Oil Pan Gasket (Ford F100)

[matnetik]

Hello all,

Long time listener, first-time caller! Been browsing the forums for a bit to gain some knowledge and insights on this engine. (During COVID, I built a ‘ 68 Mustang, so I’m familiar with Ford, and this is a bit of a change for me.)

In June, I bought a ‘ 55' Ford F100 - the kicker here is it has a 440 Big Block in it. I was told the engine was out of a ‘ 67 Dodge Charger (I doubt it ha!) and it has a 3-speed auto. Just removed the chrome valve covers and put on some aluminum covers and new gaskets to solve one of the major oil leaks. The engine runs great, no issues at all (other than it gets a bit hot in the summer, saw some 220º sitting at stop lights, and it has a pretty massive electric fan, but that’s a fix for another day).

I picked up a new oil pan gasket, drained the oil, removed all the bolts, including the transmission cover flap, but I’m unsure how to get this pan out; it seems like I can't even get it below the transmission to the rod below it. Any help would be great; I know it's quite an odd project. Was thinking to remove an engine mount bolt and jack the engine up a few inches for clearance? Any advice or thoughts welcome; I appreciate it ahead of time!

 

[Don67Satellite]

The rear lip of the pan is resting inside the trans bell. It looks like if you can get it to drop below that, that you might have enough clearance on what I assume is a straight axle to slide the pan rearward, but I can't tell for sure from these pics.

 

[matnetik]

The rear lip of the pan is resting inside the trans bell. It looks like if you can get it to drop below that, that you might have enough clearance on what I assume is a straight axle to slide the pan rearward, but I can't tell for sure from these pics.

Yeah that was me wiggling and moving it every way I could, after removing the trans cover I was able to get it there but the support frame is preventing me from moving it in any other direction - going to have another go at it this weekend but thought I'd ask here first haha - oh yeah here is the truck!

 

[Don67Satellite]

The pic of your block I think is 7/6/66 so definitely a '67 vintage 440.

As you said, you may have to jack up the motor for some more clearance.

 

[ckessel]

Like the old Playtex Bra slogan from years ago: Lift and Separate.

 

[matnetik]

Haha - I am just hoping I don't need to unbolt the transmission, trying to avoid that nightmare!

 

[matnetik]

No luck, jacked the engine up as high as it could go and it’s still resting on the transmission bell - I am talking like 3/8th of an inch.

Any guidance on separating the engine from the transmission just enough to get the pan to drop? Assuming I need to remove the starter, flexplate bolts (saw I should mark them for reassembly) and any bolts holding the engine to the tranmission?

From there could I just pull them apart enough to get the pan to drop or do I also need to disconnect the driveshaft, linkage, etc? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[ckessel]

No clue since you're dealing with a swap.

 

[WileE]

If the pan can't be removed without a major undertaking, and if the mating surfaces can be cleaned as is... I'd stagger cut or angle cut the gasket to wrap it around the pan, apply indian head on the mating surfaces and permatex on the gasket splice area.... it's a half-*** try. ( angle-cut = with a razor blade, instead of cutting straight down, cut at a 45deg angle, so one side overlaps the other )

 

[Cranky]

No luck, jacked the engine up as high as it could go and it’s still resting on the transmission bell - I am talking like 3/8th of an inch.

Any guidance on separating the engine from the transmission just enough to get the pan to drop? Assuming I need to remove the starter, flexplate bolts (saw I should mark them for reassembly) and any bolts holding the engine to the tranmission?

From there could I just pull them apart enough to get the pan to drop or do I also need to disconnect the driveshaft, linkage, etc? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Doesn't hurt to mark the flex place to the converter and the crank. They only go one way but marking them helps reassembly faster. Good luck with getting things out and back together....

 

[matnetik]

With the engine jacked up I have about 5 inches of space between the pan - it’s enough space where I can get my hand inside the pan and if I really needed to I could put the gasket under the oil pickup to keep it whole without even cutting it! All I was trying to do was stop the pan from leaking since the gasket is clearly 20 years old ha.

I started scraping the old gasket off but it’s going to be a pain to clean out the pan and scrap the pan side of where the gasket goes, doable but wondering if it’s worth the time or if I should just unbolt the transmission (which I have never done on this motor) and try to push it apart 2-3 inches so the pan can drop down, and that’s all assuming nothing else happens or gets in the way during the process.

Is the transmission relatively easy to separate on this motor?

 

[1967coronet]

I'm thinking why not pull the engine ?
Your fighting no room to work on a street rod style combo.
I do like the truck and 440.
I am thinking you probably do not want to do this twice.

 

[matnetik]

I'm thinking why not pull the engine ?
Your fighting no room to work on a street rod style combo.
I do like the truck and 440.
I am thinking you probably do not want to do this twice.

First, thanks for the kind words! To be honest I just don’t have the space at the moment, the truck is pushed up against my other car and on ramps inside my garage haha, this was supposed to be a quick job so I can get things rearranged for winter. But yeah, don’t want to do this again which is why I thought separating the transmission would give me the space, just never done it before

 

[Cranky]

First, thanks for the kind words! To be honest I just don’t have the space at the moment, the truck is pushed up against my other car and on ramps inside my garage haha, this was supposed to be a quick job so I can get things rearranged for winter. But yeah, don’t want to do this again which is why I thought separating the transmission would give me the space, just never done it before

Having space is always a problem for most of us.....but.....sometimes you have to make space!

 

[1967coronet]

Drive shaft off the rear , shift linkage , speedo cable, neutral switch, cooler lines, starter, dip stick tube off engine, 4 converter bolts , trans mount.
Floor jack cause as tight as things look do you have 3 " to go back before hitting the firewall ?

 

[matnetik]

Drive shaft off the rear , shift linkage , speedo cable, neutral switch, cooler lines, starter, dip stick tube off engine, 4 converter bolts , trans mount.
Floor jack cause as tight as things look do you have 3 " to go back before hitting the firewall ?

I really only need to separate the transmission from the engine 1 maybe 2 inches to get the pan to drop, I mean it’s barely hitting the bell housing - I was hoping I could leave most things connected (even the driveshaft because there has to be at least 1-2 inch of play?) and just unbolt the starter and anything connected to the engine, thoughts?

Or am I under thinking this task haha

 

[1967coronet]

Hard to say without being there. Drive shaft is the easy one lol,
Wrap tape around the rear u joint and leave it in the trans.
I can't think of 2" of slack in anything except mabey the speedo cable and neutral switch wire.
I understand your tight on room but sounds like your up in the air. It wont take anymore time to drop the trans down then moving it.
Remember to hold the engine up from the top.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Remove the two 7/16-14 bolts that go through the ears of the engine and into the transmission.. Replace them with longer bolts.... mark the convertor/flexplate then remove the four bolts that attach the convertor to the flexplate....Unbolt the starter, Is there a transmission crossmember and mount? If so it'll need to come out... Driveshaft/linkages/cooler lines all may need to be disconnected but you might get the room you need without doing so...

Get a jack under the trans & remove the bolts attaching the transmission to the engine.... Just be careful, things need to be secured so you don't wind up with an engine/transmission sitting on some random body part... A crushed hand/arm would suck... A crushed head would suck a lot more...

BTW I saw an engine fall out of a truck ripping all the hoses & wires that had been attached to it when the "technician" in the stall next to mine failed to pay attention... Luckily the vehicle was the only thing that suffered..

 

[Black_Sheep]

Personally, I’d support the frame on jack stands, remove the u-bolts and lower the axle far enough to drop the pan straight down. You’ll probably need to disconnect the shocks as well. You might have to lift the engine a bit depending on clearance between the crossmember and pan.

 

[RJ Squirrel]

I would clean up the flanges real good, get a tube of the "Right Stuff" silicone and a popsicle stick to smear it on. No gasket. I have done this with many transmission pans and never had a leak.
Nice truck I like it! Not a Mustang guy, but I painted my Roadrunner the Elenour color.