440 Oil Pressure?

[khryslerkid]

Several good threads on here about oil pressure. This is a video of my oil pressure after changing to 10w30w (operating temp). I tried 20w50w and on cold start would be at 80 psi. It had me worried about twisting off the distributor shaft so I changed to 10w30w.


Changing the weight of your oil can help with this. Mainly being that engines can have different bearing clearances, being just rebuilt or maybe one that has high milage. Depending on your climate you could try a different weight. Other than this you would have to fine tune the oil pump valve.

In your case I think you'll be fine. I don't believe you stated what weight oil that you're useing.

 

[moper]

If I had an engine that stopped at 40psi I would be concerned. Minimum is 10psi per 1000 rpm. Cold and hot readings at idle are fine. Hot "revving" is low. I run 15-40 in everything and that will produce a higher reading. 20-50 or straight weight 20 or 30 will give yet higher readings and might be enough to push it into the "safe" zone. But you're crutching it IMO. It's probably got some wear, and I would start considering options for addressing it in the future.

 

[BSB67]

Do these pumps have an internal relief valve?
If so mine is set @ 60 psi

Yes, and yes.

Personally, this condition is not my preference. Sometimes the relief valve can not bypass enough oil and the pressure will continue to climb. I suspect your cold operation at any elevated rpm its probably 80+ psi. I've seen 90. If I had your condition, I would probably run a 0-30 wt synthetic oil.

 

[69a100]

I want to see this Honda that has a Mopar in it!

 

[biomedtechguy]

I was concerned about the oil pressure in my wife's GTO 421 Tripower.
Factory oil pressure needle swing gauge would go to ZERO at hot idle. I installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge that had 5# increments. Cold idle got about 30 psi. Hot idle down to 10psi. That was with 20/50. Turns out a crank rod bearing had a cracked 1/2 and very worn. After rebuild, including a new high volume (not pressure) Melling oil pump and total engine rebuild, now I get 80-90 psi at cold FAST idle, drops when hot, but never below 30psi IIRC (may be higher) and up to 80 psi at high RPMs when hot.
I'm going to start running a lighter weight full synthetic in it now that it's broken in AND HAS HYDRAULIC ROLLER lifters.
So pay close attention to cold vs hot idle, and if 20psi or less when hot, beware!
JMO/YRMV

 

[Wietse]

Yes, and yes.

Personally, this condition is not my preference. Sometimes the relief valve can not bypass enough oil and the pressure will continue to climb. I suspect your cold operation at any elevated rpm its probably 80+ psi. I've seen 90. If I had your condition, I would probably run a 0-30 wt synthetic oil.

Thing is both gauges never really move, cold or hot, high or low revs.
Both steady at 60 PSI....
The shop i bought it from recommended me to stay with this oil, i am a bit scared to change to a different viscosity.

 

[biomedtechguy]

both gauges never really move, cold or hot, high or low revs.
Both steady at 60 PSI....

That is

 

[wagonman]

I was concerned about the oil pressure in my wife's GTO 421 Tripower.
Factory oil pressure needle swing gauge would go to ZERO at hot idle. I installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge that had 5# increments. Cold idle got about 30 psi. Hot idle down to 10psi. That was with 20/50. Turns out a crank rod bearing had a cracked 1/2 and very worn. After rebuild, including a new high volume (not pressure) Melling oil pump and total engine rebuild, now I get 80-90 psi at cold FAST idle, drops when hot, but never below 30psi IIRC (may be higher) and up to 80 psi at high RPMs when hot.
I'm going to start running a lighter weight full synthetic in it now that it's broken in AND HAS HYDRAULIC ROLLER lifters.
So pay close attention to cold vs hot idle, and if 20psi or less when hot, beware!
JMO/YRMV

Hopefully you used the GOOD Poncho forged rods and not the Arma-steel cast. My buddy has a 70 GTO H.O. with the CAST rods WTF and says they are good to 550 HP. I just hate having my pucker factor come into play every time I power shift at 6000.

 

[biomedtechguy]

Hopefully you used the GOOD Poncho forged rods and not the Arma-steel cast.

I used Eagle forged steel H beam rods and RaceTech .035 over forged aluminum pistons with just enough dish for a 10:1 CR. The 6777 iron Pontiac heads had already been hand ported and came with CompCams roller tipped steel rocker arms, and CC locks and retainers. I had them machined for Viton valve stem seals, and they already had bronze guides. I couldn't bear to drop the CR below 10:1, but we have no problem with detonation.
ARP everything, everywhere.

 

[dvw]

The nice thing about a BB Mopar is the pressure relief is adjustable. Either with washers behind the spring or an available adjustable relief screw. If the pressure won't go to the range desired, taller rotor pumps are available. Both easily done in the car. With the tall rotor pump I actually had to trim a few coils from the relief spring. Either way easy fix.
Doug

 

[Darter6]

FYI Milodon has a adjustable oil pressure regulator for big block Mopar oil pump. Part #21550 Jegs part #697-21550

 

[Sinister B Body]

My 440 was rebuilt .030 over to stock specs except for a mild cam 30 years and 25,000 miles ago. (It was rebuilt by a previous owner.)

I unscrewed the oil sending unit and screwed in my shop gauge. I'm getting a tick over 50 PSI at cold idle, it drops to a tick over 20 PSI at hot idle. It's s tick over 40 PSI when the engine is hot and revved up.

Do I have anything to be concerned about?

My 383 stroker 496 does the exact same thing, I've cut open the last 4 oil filters and they were clean.