sc440
Well-Known Member
This definitely wasn’t a beater build
440 short block
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sc440
Well-Known Member
It is going to be a fairly mild street engine not sure that’s a beater or not lol will have tf 240 heads and small ft cam
How did you check this?
I had a motor once, 2 rods ended up being .010 longer than the rest. But they were stock and a mixed set.
With your molnars that doesn't sound likely. But to offset grind a journal that much would mean alot of meat off one side and none on the other.
A true stroke measurement would confirm.
Not sure how the super stock tech guys do it.
sc440
Well-Known Member
Top was checked with a indicator, bottom was depth mic’ed with starret depth mic
Outsider
Well-Known Member
Sounds like an oops on the crank grind, maybe the guy's wife called while he was in the middle of the grind. If you believe it is a good shop that you went to, then tell them, and they should make it right for no charge. If not, move on to another shop and double check everything else.
This situation is why it is necessary to check everything, otherwise go to a place that has a good warranty and pay the shop to assemble the complete motor.
This situation is why it is necessary to check everything, otherwise go to a place that has a good warranty and pay the shop to assemble the complete motor.
This is an option is to cut the bad journal .020 under on the long side. Maybe not the best solution but cheap way. If crank is already .020 undersized that's a problem.
sc440
Well-Known Member
Crank was ground undersized during this build so not a option now
If it was cut .010 us you could go .030 us. I don't know about going .040 us or if you can get .040 us bearings. It sure sucks. They cut the crank wrong so they should make it right. If they supply a brand new crank you could pick up some of the cost but that's your decision, if you want to do business with them in the future. It depends on how they act I guess.
I would think if it's cut, and offset ground, you're screwed.
Almost impossible to get .040 bearings, I've tried.
And then there's balancing..
Almost impossible to get .040 bearings, I've tried.
And then there's balancing..
Small quantities as in, custom just for you.
King bearings will, apparently.
How long and at what cost is the issue.
Damn!
After 10 years I sold a nice crank. Just couldn't get my hands on some!
What's the date on those bad boys?
Outsider
Well-Known Member
I think it says '08 on the box, can't remember exactly when I got them. I believe I saw some .040s on ebay this year; I just got three sets of std LB mains this week as I had a couple 440 cranks turned down to LB mains recently. I still buy internal engine parts in lesser quantities compared to years ago.
When I was more serious about about racing, 35+ years ago, I used to get them in quantity, sometimes by the case, mostly Mopar for CL77s and Childs & Albert for their high quality Babbitts. I used to run a stick car, and I would pull the pan and check the main #3 thrusts and a couple rod bearings and toss them after about every day of racing. I still have a shelf full of RB thrust bearings, doubt I'll use too many of those at this point.
When I was more serious about about racing, 35+ years ago, I used to get them in quantity, sometimes by the case, mostly Mopar for CL77s and Childs & Albert for their high quality Babbitts. I used to run a stick car, and I would pull the pan and check the main #3 thrusts and a couple rod bearings and toss them after about every day of racing. I still have a shelf full of RB thrust bearings, doubt I'll use too many of those at this point.
If they turned the crank 20 over stock. Mine was done 10 thou over stock and had to find another crank. I just don't like to go over 10 thou. Don't know where my motor guy got one but told me my crank was trash. Connecting rod from Egal Rods. Ever thing should come out the same when measure top dead center. If they are off, then the motor is not going to be balanced as stated. I would be pissed for sure. Take it back and get them to fix their mess up.
BSB67
Well-Known Member
Like everyone else, 99.9% sure it’s the crank. But you need to take and swap the #1, 3, or 7 rod and piston into the #5 hole to confirm.
sc440
Well-Known Member
I did check the rods with dial calipers before giving them to engine builder, they definitely wasn’t .020 difference in length. The engine is a 71 out of a cuda I have had for 25 years. It was a standard bore, crank was standard on Rods and mains. It had a spun rod bearing. I informed him to check it out before doing anything and if needed I would get a new crank.
BSB67
Well-Known Member
It takes 5 minutes
Outsider
Well-Known Member
Sometimes it's tough to get a crank back in line after a spun rod bearing. My crank grinder says you should always assume the crank has "pulled" after a spun bearing because of the heat, and will almost always need straightening before grinding. Not every grinder is up to the more difficult ones.
As for bearing under size, I never worry about anything other than making sure the clearances are right. Grind RB to LB mains, grind Chry rod to Chevy rod journal, way more grinding then regular .040" bearings, and they work fine for power around 1&1/2 hp to ci, and perhaps then you should be looking at a billet crank.
As for bearing under size, I never worry about anything other than making sure the clearances are right. Grind RB to LB mains, grind Chry rod to Chevy rod journal, way more grinding then regular .040" bearings, and they work fine for power around 1&1/2 hp to ci, and perhaps then you should be looking at a billet crank.
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