440 Six Pack intake, anyone familiar with this setup?

[QOTHL]

If you want the info on popsicle sticks LMK I have it.......

Oh, I've seen stock lines used with an STR-14, they might have been tweaked slightly but I don't think so...

I couldn't get the stock lines to work, it would block the inlet so I bailed to Nicopp line. What are popsicle sticks?

 

[70chall440]

 

[70chall440]

I couldn't get the stock lines to work, it would block the inlet so I bailed to Nicopp line. What are popsicle sticks?

I believe the STR type intakes typically required some mods to get them to flow well. The way to do this is to glue sticks inside to direct the flow.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Back in the 70's & early 80's Mopar sold technical bulletins covering details about how their engineers would modify parts to maximize the performance... The STR manifolds as delivered had allot of potential but were not optimized to provide equal mixtures to all eight cylinders.... Depending on which lid you used (They offered a single 4bbl & a Sixpack lid... There may have even been a 2x4 lid) Chryslers engineers literally would epoxy popsicle sticks to the lower manifold to form air diversion dams.... This is the Sixpack info...

 

[QOTHL]

I believe the STR type intakes typically required some mods to get them to flow well. The way to do this is to glue sticks inside to direct the flow.

Glue sticks?

 

[QOTHL]

View attachment 1131948

Wish my lines were as consistent as those...I had to bend each one the right way to fit in there - the center carb is THE BITCH FROM HELL!

 

[70chall440]

Wish my lines were as consistent as those...I had to bend each one the right way to fit in there - the center carb is THE BITCH FROM HELL!

Yeah bending the Nicopp tightly can be a pain. I have some high end benders and I even packed the lines with dry sand.

 

[QOTHL]

Yeah bending the Nicopp tightly can be a pain. I have some high end benders and I even packed the lines with dry sand.

Yeah, someone suggested sand - that first bend right behind the nut is so tight, I was afraid the line might split. I'm almost there and have a few spares in case I need to bend another one. My bender is good but that one bend is just a pain. You're lucky you don't have any like that.

 

[QOTHL]

Back in the 70's & early 80's Mopar sold technical bulletins covering details about how their engineers would modify parts to maximize the performance... The STR manifolds as delivered had allot of potential but were not optimized to provide equal mixtures to all eight cylinders.... Depending on which lid you used (They offered a single 4bbl & a Sixpack lid... There may have even been a 2x4 lid) Chryslers engineers literally would epoxy popsicle sticks to the lower manifold to form air diversion dams.... This is the Sixpack info...

View attachment 1131951

View attachment 1131952

What's in there? I have no idea. I'd have to take it apart to see if someone did any of that stuff. Other than needing to do that for the race track, not really necessary for me. It's a frickin beast as it is.

 

[QOTHL]

Might think about Nicopp line, very easy to bend in gentle curves, tight ones require a good bender though.

View attachment 1126212

That nicopp is nice stuff, i bought a couple lengths to plumb in a line lock, but i was amazed how expevsive it was! Maybe i just got it at the wrong place.

Lol, this doesn't look like 65 bucks worth to me but when all else fails similar might be an option for your hood ......
1968 426 Race Hemi K-Frame Spacers Hurst Dart Barracuda | eBay

I'm guessing the 3/8" chevy tri line would run into the front pod even if the spacing was there.........
View attachment 1126341

There's this..........
Edelbrock 1288 Triple Deuce Fuel Log Kit | CJ Pony Parts

I made up hardline when I had my Sixpack setup. Pain in the butt to do with tight areas and multiple bend angles. I ended up making them later on with AN fittings and braided line. Did not care about oe look.

Bending pre-made lines without damaging the flare is "challenging".. But there are tricks... I make sure the fitting is tightened down against a spare inverted flare fitting, I clamp that spare fitting in a vise & I use a wrench on the flare nut to control where the bending occurs...

It may not show in this photo but it's running and no leaks. I've been told by someone with a lot of experience that a fuel line is like being pregnant. It either leaks or it doesn't, there is no in between. The rear line and line for the center carb I made worked. The others didn't probably because I couldn't make good enough double flairs. Luckily the "old" line connecting from the center line to the first carb and the connecting line fit up and I was able to use the new stock line to the fuel filter.
Niccop line is the way to go especially with this setup. Thanks, 70chall440! And thanks to ALL of you who helped me get this car running and were willing to take time to give me advice.

 

[70chall440]

Congrats glad it worked out.

 

[Daves69]

A "how to" for the back pocket..............

 

[ckessel]

A "how to" for the back pocket..............

I have an OLD Blue Point one of those units. I've found over the years that after you got done flaring, you needed to take a file to the backside of the flare and remove the two ridges left from being in the unit. Otherwise its hard to get the unit to stop leaking. I now have one of the hydraulic units from Mastercool.

 

[QOTHL]

A "how to" for the back pocket..............

Thanks! I'd like to fix the Niccop lines I made that didn't work.

 

[QOTHL]

I have an OLD Blue Point one of those units. I've found over the years that after you got done flaring, you needed to take a file to the backside of the flare and remove the two ridges left from being in the unit. Otherwise its hard to get the unit to stop leaking. I now have one of the hydraulic units from Mastercool.

What did you pay for that? Eastwood has them for about $168. I couldn't see spending the money for just that job.

 

[ckessel]

Don't remember, got it off Amazon. It does quite a few different jobs besides inverted flare. The Eastwood one only does inverted, single or bubble[import car brake]. They do have an adaptor set you buy seperatly for AN flare. Eastwood does show another unit, which is like my MC one, for $300. Thats probably around what I paid for the MC unit. For AN flare, especially stainless, I have a unit from Parker Hanifen that has rollers in the cone for the flaring. Looks similar to the Blue Point unit I got back in the 70's from the Snap On dealer at the time.

 

[QOTHL]

Don't remember, got it off Amazon. It does quite a few different jobs besides inverted flare. The Eastwood one only does inverted, single or bubble[import car brake]. They do have an adaptor set you buy seperatly for AN flare. Eastwood does show another unit, which is like my MC one, for $300. Thats probably around what I paid for the MC unit. For AN flare, especially stainless, I have a unit from Parker Hanifen that has rollers in the cone for the flaring. Looks similar to the Blue Point unit I got back in the 70's from the Snap On dealer at the time.

The vast majority of projects I have will use stock lines I can get already made. This turned out to be something custom so even the Eastwood double flair tool for $160+ would be a lot to spend for just one job, maybe 6 flared lines. Thanks for all of your help!