440 Starts... But Won't Restart

[Bruzilla]

I finally got the 73 440 engine I transplanted into the Roadrunner running. It starts and runs, it idles fine and revs fine, but if you shut it off and try to restart it just cranks and cranks. If I let it sit for 4-5 hours and try to restart it will restart then, but only after it sits for a long time. This is the case if the engine runs for 30 seconds or 30 minutes.

The carb is an Edelbrock 800.

 

[YY1]

My truck did s very similar thing, and it's documented on this forum.

Ended up being a two level issue.

1- fuel line was rusted inside causing both bad fuel and clogging issues.

2- carb was bleeding down the float bowls possibly due to needle/seat clogging and one of the accelerator pump tubes was blocked.

I replaced the fuel line and cleaned the carb (Edelbrock 600) and put it back together (no rebuild kit).

That did the trick.

Did you buy the carb new? Knowing you, I bet you saved $100 and bought a used one like I did

Had almost the exact same symptoms- started fine cold and ran pretty good.

If it happened to stall, though.....just crank and crank unless gas was poured into the carb.

 

[Bruzilla]

Of course I bought a used one! I got it from a guy who had it on a Camaro with a 400. We took the car for a drive around the block and it was running fine. The carb was just four months old, but too big for his 400 so he was getting a 750.

 

[SlinktRR]

The eddy 800 club! I also got mine off ebay cheap from a GM owner. The carb I got was too small for his application, he had the biggest fattest tune possible in it when I got it in the mail and it wasnt enough to keep up with the motor so he got a dominator or something. I had to go completely the opposite direction when I installed it, tiny jets and metering rods. Anyways if you encounter this it should start with throttle to the floor. No acc pump, just floored until it starts then let off.

 

[mopar 3 B]

First thought "brand rejection" but on the serious side has the fuel level been checked. If the floats are not set correct could be dumping fuel into the intake after shut down flooding it.

 

[747mopar]

Easy way to tell if it's the fuel evaporating out of the bowls is just look in the carb while you hit the accelerator pump, no squirt no fuel. Improperly set timing will cause the motor to run hot and cook the fuel, it's also always a good idea to block off the heat transfers in the intake and add a phenolic spacer as well.

 

[Bruzilla]

It's on a Performer intake, and has an adapter under it.

 

[747mopar]

According to this pic they have heat transfers too?

 

[mopar 3 B]

Easy way to tell if it's the fuel evaporating out of the bowls is just look in the carb while you hit the accelerator pump, no squirt no fuel. Improperly set timing will cause the motor to run hot and cook the fuel, it's also always a good idea to block off the heat transfers in the intake and add a phenolic spacer as well.

Does not appear to be an evaporation problem if it is starting right up after sitting awhile.
Still think the problem is due to raw fuel being dumped form the fuel bowels (dirt under needle and seats or floats not set right).

 

[451Mopar]

I'd guess you have the Mopar electronic ignition system?
Does it try to fire when releasing the key from the start position?

 

[747mopar]

Does not appear to be an evaporation problem if it is starting right up after sitting awhile.
Still think the problem is due to raw fuel being dumped form the fuel bowels (dirt under needle and seats or floats not set right).

Maybe not but when I first put my car on the road it would start everytime but would start missing and nearly die after about 100 yds then come right out of it and would be fine. I insulated the fuel line next to the header and installed a phenolic spacer and never had it do it again?

Holding the throttle open while cranking would be a quick way to test the raw fuel theory, if it starts better holding the throttle open then it's a good chance your right.

 

[Bruzilla]

Yep... I tried the full throttle move and the engine started up.

 

[747mopar]

Sounds like mopar 3 B might be onto something. If that helped then it should mean it's really rich (fuel dumping in while sitting). Might be time to freshen up the carb, if it's an Eddy or Carter at least it should be an easy job. Good luck

 

[dieseldazzle]

Before you tear into the carb Bruce, go down to the Marina. There is one in green cove springs I think, whiteys? Get a 5 gallon can of ethanol free fuel.

Take it home and stick a long hose on your fuel pump, pickup side and stick it in the can.

Run the car on that for awhile, see if your problem goes away.

Id bet it does.

My 67 charger did the same thing out there. I would have to mat the throttle to get it to restart anytime after running.

Put a tank of ethanol free fuel in it. Took it for a good 40 minute cruise. Problem gone.

 

[Bruzilla]

We have a couple of ethanol-free stations around here. I'll give that a try.

I tore the carb down this weekend, polished the needles, seats, and rods. Replaced the main gasket, and added a new thermal gasket for the bottom, so I'll see what that does.

 

[YY1]

There's not a lot to those carbs.

You can basically rebuild one without any parts.

Just clean everything like you did and make sure carb cleaner squirts through all the passages, like the acc pump.

I'm gonna try firing up the 400 in the D100 tonight.

I'm having classic Mopar withdrawal.....

 

[Bruzilla]

Yeah, I was pretty surprised how easy it was to take the carb apart and get it all back together again. The only problem I had was the gasket between the top and bottom, that should stick to the top, was stuck to the bottom and I had to tear it to get the floats out. I had to order a new one. which come in a pack of five, to put the carb back together.

 

[Garys1969RR]

That's good, now you can take it apart 5 times! LOL. I found that I could remove the top of the carb and access the jets without removing the carb from the car. Or you can change the step up rods just by removing the little covers for them. But it sounds as if you have a leaking needle and seat, or too high a float level if it's flooding and refusing to start. Something is causing an excess amount of fuel to get in there when you shut it off. After you turn the motor off, pull the air filter and look into the top of the carb. See if gas is dripping inside it, possibly from the booster venturi. I had a new Holley doing this while on a sloping driveway, so I lowered the float level a half turn and prob solved! You may want to lower your float level slightly. Good luck!

 

[Bruzilla]

The problem with the Edelbrocks is float level is not an exact science. According to the manufacturer, the correct height is 7/16", and their recommendation of obtaining that measurement is to try to slide a 7/16" drill bit under the float. The problem is the float is at a bit of an angle, so does the 7/16" start at the tip? At the middle? At the far end? The video I watched shows a guy lifting a float by just touching the front tip with the bit, which to me would make the float sitting lower than 7/16".

 

[Garys1969RR]

I believe the measurement is taken at the far end from the needle and seat while holding it upside down. I would try that, since there is some margin for error in there. I would err on the low float level side to see if that helps.