440 Starts... But Won't Restart

[miller]

That's right, measured at the farther 'flat' edge, from the needle/seat. Might also check if it calls for the gasket to be in place, too.

 

[SlinktRR]

I dont mind the restart issue, as long as it (eventually) starts and doesnt foul plugs I'm fine. The one thing that really bothers me about these carburetors is that it will stall on a sharp downhill turn, like mid-corner, if you let off the gas at any point. Apparently it is a known issue on hot rod forums but the fix is not well-known. Theories abound like float level too low (uncovers the jet), float level too high (travels from one bowl to another through the crossover channel and floods), etc.

 

[Garys1969RR]

I would lower the float level by about 1/8 inch, see if that helps. I think it will. You're getting too much fuel at certain times.

 

[miller]

I dont mind the restart issue, as long as it (eventually) starts and doesnt foul plugs I'm fine. The one thing that really bothers me about these carburetors is that it will stall on a sharp downhill turn, like mid-corner, if you let off the gas at any point. Apparently it is a known issue on hot rod forums but the fix is not well-known. Theories abound like float level too low (uncovers the jet), float level too high (travels from one bowl to another through the crossover channel and floods), etc.

Interesting. Is there any chance of a white paper, or the like, on this? If not, I'll hit the research key.

 

[Bruzilla]

I would lower the float level by about 1/8 inch, see if that helps. I think it will. You're getting too much fuel at certain times.

Is that 1/8" upwards or downwards?

One other thing I've found is that when you're bending the floats to get them to the right height, you can also be bending the tabs that hold the needles in. The first time I adjusted the floats, I turned the carb top over and there was now enough room for one of the needles to fall out of the seat. I pushed the tabs back down, but are they where they should be??? No idea.

 

[Garys1969RR]

When you are holding the carb top upside down to measure float height, Use a drill bit size 1/8 in larger. So instead of using a 7/16 drill bit under the end of the float, use a 9/16 bit. This will lower the fuel level in the bowl, by 1/8 inch.

 

[Garys1969RR]

Is that 1/8" upwards or downwards?

One other thing I've found is that when you're bending the floats to get them to the right height, you can also be bending the tabs that hold the needles in. The first time I adjusted the floats, I turned the carb top over and there was now enough room for one of the needles to fall out of the seat. I pushed the tabs back down, but are they where they should be??? No idea.

There is another measurement on these called "float drop". This is measured with the carb top right side up, and is measured at the end of the float opposite the needle and seat. This is adjusted by bending the little tabs that prevent the float from dropping too far. Now when adjusting the float LEVEL, hold the flat area between the needle and the float with a pair of needle nose pliers. Then bend the float up or down to get it at the correct level. Then adjust float DROP with the little tabs. Your instructions that came with the carb kit should outline this adjustment. Feel free to PM me for a phone number and we can discuss it further

 

[SlinktRR]

Interesting. Is there any chance of a white paper, or the like, on this? If not, I'll hit the research key.

What I have read is that folks have tried the offroad carb version needles and seats. Have not done this. I try to stay on the throttle through a turn, which seems to help. I have nightmares of taking this thing on VIR and stalling on a downhill hairpin turn with other cars on track. Probably will go with a holley type carb for road course activities.

 

[coloradodave]

The 7/16" measurement is taken at the end of the float farthest from the needle/seat, as Gary said, WITH THE GASKET IN PLACE. The bit is used to judge the distance because a ruler or caliper is tougher to gauge. Also, remove the float and needle and check the seat for junk while you have it apart.
Miller: You can go to Edelbrock's site and download their operating manual for their carbs. All the adjustments are covered and easy to understand.

 

[miller]

What I have read is that folks have tried the offroad carb version needles and seats.

Appreciate that...we talking poor design on the stock needles and seats?
These are first Edelbrocks I've fooled with, but I'm going to pull both tops to 'operate' anyway, to swap sides for fuel inlets. I'll have a look then.

Miller: You can go to Edelbrock's site and download their operating manual for their carbs. All the adjustments are covered and easy to understand.

Yes sir, already have it. Just looking for some insight for any known bad parts in 'em. Will AFB parts interchange???

 

[coloradodave]

Most AFB parts will interchange. The only problem I've ever encountered with these carbs is a primary booster that had porosity holes and ran really lean at idle and low speed. Chased the problem for months. To their credit, Edelbrock replaced the whole carburetor, even though it had been purchased (from Summit) two years earlier. All I asked for was a new booster. Didn't have many miles on it because I was re-doing the whole car in that time period. Hard to beat that kind of customer service.

 

[Garys1969RR]

Slinkt, Have you been able to fix the problem with it stalling yet? With the stalling on turns, this indicates too high a fuel level in carbs. The fuel sloshes over and into the carb throat which stalls the motor.