daytona kid
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Anyone know where I can purchase some of these brackets, new? They bolt to the rear cross member brace and the rear of the rear frame rails. And what is the correct name for them?
$500- 68 charger
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daytona kid
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I am welding the new rails on, letting the welder cool off now. Here is a pic of the splice on one side, just about finished, before grinding. I drilled 3/8" spot weld holes in the old "left on" rails at the splice to increase the strength as much as I could. I skipped from side to side welding a little on each side to help prevent warping.
Burning the midnight wire.:coffee2:
Burning the midnight wire.:coffee2:
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hunt2elk
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Don't think they are repoped yet. A pair came up for sale about a month ago on dodgecharger.com or moparts. I'll look around to see Iif I can find the ad.
hunt2elk
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Here are the ones I saw. They don't look to be in the best of shape though.
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97653.msg1129312.html#msg1129312
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97653.msg1129312.html#msg1129312
roadrunnerman
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I'm guessing that you spot welded on both sides of the rail and then ran the full bead all around? Looks good, you'll have to show us the full picture when you get both of them on.
old tired rebel
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That looks great.
daytona kid
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I actually put both sides on at the same time, as a "unit". Skipped from side to side with small welds to keep warping to minimum. I took the old ones off as a unit as well, as you can see in the pic in post #58. I welded temp angle iron braces on old and new so the alignment would be exact. After I welded a brace on the old ones, I cut off the shock mount cross member to reuse it. I laid the new rails splice ends to the cut ends of the old ones, then tack welded the shock mount and the trunk brace to the new ones. Then put the new "unit" in place and tapped them/it into place while checking many measurements I had from the old ones before I removed them, Height from floor, distance between, side distance to wall of shop, etc., etc.,. I used a plum bob to mark the floor, center of back end of rails and used also it with other floor marks to insure car did not move. "Too many measurements are almost enough". Then started finish welds.
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daytona kid
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The operation was a success and the patient is resting comfortably. Grinding of splices revealed no holes. I'm sure with a little por-15, paint, and maybe some undercoating you won't be able to tell this repair ever happened. Test fitting of rear cross brace and trunk floor halves is going good. Will be ordering the tail-lite panel, rear valance and a few other smaller parts soon. I noticed that the tail-lite panel is a good bit cheaper from RPC/Sherman than from AMD. Is quality ever an issue with Sherman parts?
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smyythe68
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Looking good kid, I've used por-15 in the past with good results and bad. I've had it come off in sheets on clean sandblasted metal and I have had it stick, sometimes. Same results on rusty metal. Some people swear by it, many don't. I have moved on to Rust Bullet. It's silver but is easily top coated and seems to bond better. As far as Sherman steel goes, fit is decent, I never had any major issues with it. The pieces I bought (floor pan, rocker) are good quality and the rocker came with the factory inner brackets. My AMD rear pans and rocker are thicker for sure but, the AMD rocker had no brackets and I had to reuse my originals. As always it comes down to money, if you can, get AMD. If your on a budget get sherman. For me Sherman is an hour away. I can get it delivered for next to nothing. If your close to Georgia, AMD shipping will probably be less. I'm actually trying to decide right now between Sherman and AMD for my inner fenders. Price sure does look good.... Good luck, keep up the good work.
Propwash
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I'm right with you. It's a better product...not as runny/thin, UV resistant, top coats bond better and it bonds to more surfaces. Ditch the POR15.....Buy Rust Bullet factory direct or from Summit.
daytona kid
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Propwash
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Great work....Looking real good kid. Feels good to get over that frame rail hurdle eh?
daytona kid
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BIG TIME! I'm celebrating with a margarita right now.
ccasion14:
hunt2elk
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Looking good. You sure don't waste any time on your days off. I feel the same about the POR 15, having had it peel off in sheets on both clean metal and e coated stuff on previous cars. Went with Props' recommendation for Rust Bullet on my Charger.
Propwash
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I'm sure you guys already have the scoop on this, but wanted just to circle the wagon about the prep of topcoating rust bullet. Be sure to rough it up with 220-300 or one of those 3M Scuff pads until it takes on a dull flat look. Besides that, make sure it's very well ventilated where you use it or you'll be surfing the magical tide for a ride to the unicorn kingdom with Jimmy, Janis and the Lizard King on your flying mushrooms......In other words, you'll be high as hell.
old tired rebel
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Thanks Prop. Now I know what to get that will hold up. Can you apply it then weld it up?
daytona kid
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No I didn't have the scoop, BIG THNX for any info like that Prop and anyone else! Forgive my lack of info, Let me get a little more scoop,. Can the Rust Bullet fill small pits, grinding marks, etc.? Kinda like a paint on bondo? Do you brush it on or spray it? Where is the best place to get the Bullet? Can you weld with it on the area?
And yes Hunt, I do try to make the best of my 6 days off (after every 8 worked), but you make me feel like a snail the way you have rolled. You guys will have to give me a break on the speed of my project, I am not really a "kid". I am 57 and also a old tired rebel, ha. I do have ancient experience with these B-bod mopars but this is way farther than I ever went with one when I was a real "kid". Also, since a lot of this is kinda new to me I am going slow and doing a lot of extra work to insure as much perfection as I can perform. I will be on 10 hr night shift this next 8 days and not much left of me after work. But I can take a not to big piece or 2 to work with me to sand blast, weld, reproduce, etc., during my breaks.
Since the rails looked good to me I guess I order the tail panels today, from RPC also. "fingers crossed".
Propwash
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No sweat. Rust bullet is a bit more resistant to heat than regular paint, but it will bubble up, burn and flake off if it's real close to a weld being made. I would say if you're about 3" away from the heat affected zone when making the weld, the rust bullet will hold up just fine. Right next to a weld, it will break down.
It will fill small pits and grinding marks, especially if you use a couple coats. It's pretty thick stuff. You can apply it by brush, roller or even spray. I typically use a brush in tight corners in the areas that are hard to get to. I use one of those small disposable touch up paint rollers to apply the rest. That will give you a nice uniform coat and will level out nicely. It is somewhat self leveling, so if you do run a brush, it will flatten out some. As far as spraying, I haven't. To spray that, to be safe you would need to either have one heck of a respirator or supplied air. Also, once this stuff gets on something, it's staying there. I could see overspray getting on everything. If you get it on yourself, expect to wear it for a week or so. Gasoline, pumice soap, carb cleaner, paint thinner don't hold a wick to it. You can order it directly from rust bullet (just google it) or Summit sells it as well. Always buy the silver. It has aluminum in it to further blocks corrosion on steel. As far as welding on it, see above. It's not like weld-thru primer..you will not be able to strike an arc on top of it and too far into the heat affected zone it will burn away.
Superfreak
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This is why I use a product called Bluesteel, it is an industrial marine grade product used in the marine industry and is water based and does not like to come off even when you grind it. It is also a primer coat so you can top coat with paint and is also a rust neutralizer so it can be put over rust that is not flakey.
roadrunnerman
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To ask another question on the rust bullet. Can you put it over rusty or clean metal and then put a coat or 2 of regular primer on top of that, and then your color coat? Can you put fiberglass or body filler on top of it, or do you do the bodywork first, then put on the Rust Bullet?
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