62 Dart is getting a 440

[mnnathan]

Thanks. It has been a very fun build, though not without it's share of issues. Only reason you will know it has a hot engine will be the dual 3" dumps in front of the axle. That kind of sound gives everything away.

 

[mnnathan]

SSmith440, I am interested in selling. I emailed you but it probably got caught by your spam filter.

 

[GetX'd]

Love your build. Looks a bit like the little old lady from Pasadena. That 440 is going to make her quite a sleeper. Fun car with a sweet look.

 

[SSmith440]

Hello; you might have gone to the junk filter. Can you try emailing again? Thank you, Scott
[email protected]

 

[mnnathan]

SSmith440, I PM'd you.

 

[mnnathan]

...and the transmission is back out for about the 11th time. The hydro lines on the throwout bearing were going to interfere with the clutch. A couple of 45 elbow should have fixed it but then I dropped one into the bellhousing. My 5 year old son couldn't even reach it so out the transmission came. Then El Nino decided I should stop work. Of course the first day in weeks it rains is the day I am trying to get some work done.

 

[mnnathan]

FINALLY got the clutch bled. Using a hydraulic throwout bearing and a S-10 master. I ended up taking the M/C out to bench bleed it. Due to the angle it sits at an air bubble stays trapped regardless of how much I bled it. Took everything apart and bench bled everything. Good throw and a firm pedal now.

Also got the driveshaft in. Got it from southwest speed. Had to run a 1310-1330 swap u-joint on the front end and a 1310-7260 swap on the back end but it is in.

Got the E-brake almost finished. I still have to make a loop in the wire but I drilled the new cross member to fit it.

Speedo Cable is in. I was able to use a stock cable from a 1970's F-250. I will have to match gears but I put a 16-tooth on for the time being. That was the closest I could find to the size I was calculating.

 

[mnnathan]

We got it running, until we found the massive vaccuum leak. We used a carb spacer from a Ford because we had it on hand but the mating surface was different. It had a port for the brake booster that required a bigger surface to seal properly.

At that point it was 10 PM so we called it a night. We will work it today.

 

[ilm65]

I would be very interested in the details involved for installing the hydro boost. I'm considering this conversion since I currently have manual disc (requires considerable pedal pressure) and would like to avoid the bulky vacuum units. Thanks in advance, Bob

 

[SSmith440]

SSmith440, I PM'd you.

Sorry but I do not know where to find a PM on this forum. Scott

 

[dvw]

Very resourceful use of parts from varying manufacturers. That is TRUE hot rodding.
Doug

 

[khryslerkid]

Sorry but I do not know where to find a PM on this forum. Scott

Right next to your user name, at the top of the page, click on "notifications"

 

[junkyard junky]

Very cool build! I've got a 63 plymouth 4dr I started working on but then traded a ford to a 65 coronet. Can't decide to go 318 poly or 383.

 

[mnnathan]

I would be very interested in the details involved for installing the hydro boost. I'm considering this conversion since I currently have manual disc (requires considerable pedal pressure) and would like to avoid the bulky vacuum units. Thanks in advance, Bob

Details are pretty simple. General parts/price list:

Hydroboost from 01 Mustang GT - $110 on ebay
Master cylinder from the same - $35 on rock auto
metric (forget size) to 3/16th adapters x2 - $5 at O'reilly's
High pressure hose from P/S pump to hydroboost - $50 at local hydraulic hose shop
High pressure hose from hydroboost to steering gear - $50 at local hydraulic hose shop
3/8 low pressure line from hydroboost to T-fitting - $5
5/8 hose from gearbox to T-fitting - $10
5/8 hose from T-fitting to P/S pump - $5
3/8 x 5/8 x 5/8 hose barb T-fitting (made with pipe fittings) - $10 at home depot
3/16th lines from master cylinder to proportioning valve - $7 at O'reilly's

Total ~$290

Notes:
the locator pin on the hydroboost needs to be knocked out
1 hole needs to be drilled in the Hydroboost unit mounting plate for the lower passenger side mounting bolt
1 hole needs to be drilled in the firewall for the drivers side lower mounting bolt
the big hole in the firewall needs to be enlarged slightly
the linkage needs to be modified to fit. The Mustang linkage is too short
the linkage will bolt to the lower hole on the pedal. That is due to the angle difference of the master cylinder

Cautions:
the Hydroboost unit has metric o-ring fittings. The original high pressure line will bolt in...but will NOT seal
Make sure your proportioning valve will work with your master cylinder

Overall it is a very easy conversion. I never drove the car before (single pot drum/drum) but it is nice to drive now. I would consider it bolt-in except for the push rod.

If you have any questions feel free to ask.

- - - Updated - - -

Very cool build! I've got a 63 plymouth 4dr I started working on but then traded a ford to a 65 coronet. Can't decide to go 318 poly or 383.

The 440 fit with PLENTY of space. Tightest part is the hood to carb clearance. If you can get the big block for a similar price I would definitely go for the extra cube. You will definitely need the bigger torsion bars and a sway bar with the extra weight though!

And now that the car is running we found out how bad we needed the suspension upgrade. There goes another $460.

- - - Updated - - -

And finally the UPDATE

The car is running and driving. For some reason it has a tendency to run on after the key is turned off. It is and electric problem though, not dieseling. I am still working through that.

The thing runs well and will move in no time flat. The .88 torsoin bars are going in favor of some new .96 bars. We are also adding a Hellwig sway bar and getting 2 new tires for it. That should deal with the extra front end weight.

Radio is in and working and rear speakers are going in today (My brother is working on it while I am at work).

We are having trouble finding a place that will do a decent job aligning it. Doesn't seem to be many reputable places around here and chains like Big Brand have a tendency to charge you while they figure out what they are doing. It is close on toe and camber but I need to check caster.

The exhaust was done a bit ago but I never mentioned it. 2.5" back to 3" Flowmasters dumped just in front of the rear axle. It sounds AMAZING. It is going to get loud on long trips though.

We have the weather stripping coming for the windows. For the doors we are using OE weather stripping from a '92 dodge truck.

Still need to put in the brake light switch.

Other than that we are just finishing up little things before my brother is going to head out.

 

[speedchangesyou]

View attachment 296201SWEET!!! from another 62 Dart owner Please keep the updates coming. Where are you in Ca? We're in Lake Elsinore

 

[mnnathan]

I am over by Lompoc on Vandenberg Air Force Base. An hour north of Santa Barbara. Quite a drive from Lake Elsinore

 

[mnnathan]

Update: The car is running and driving. It drives, stops and handles awesome. The steering is light but that is ok for a cruiser. The Holley is giving me some grief trying to tune it but nothing too bad. It stumbles under acceleration so I will be increasing the pump cam or delaying the secondaries. Overall it is amazingly fun to drive and it keeps getting better as I take care of the little things.

 

[Homstead]

That's awesome to hear! Keep up the good work and you`ll have more fun!

 

[mnnathan]

So, I swapped my accelerator pump cam and checked my timing. It was set at 6 degrees. I went back to 12, which helped then back to about 18-20. That engine loves the timing. Now every time I go full throttle in 1 the tires just spin. Before it would only spin if I dumped the clutch at higher RPMs. Still amazed at how much the engine woke up.