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62 Ply gauge issue questions

threewood

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Trying to track an issue with my instrument voltage limiter and coolant/fuel gauge. A month ago both gauges pegged to the right and stopped working or worked occasionally. Found two nos gauges and bought a new limiter. Tested both good and bad gauges with gauge tester and 4 A batteries putting out around 5.9v. Both new gauges were spot on and the two duds barely moved. Fuel gauge tested on vehicle showed low.

Installed new gauges and limiter, mounted the cluster and keyed the ignition. Fuel gauge goes a bit above 1/2 but no more on a full tank of gas. After driving around a bit noticed that the coolant temp was below 1/2 which is odd as the cars normal range is right at or a bit above 1/2.

Switched out limiter for solid state 3 prong limiter, 5v. Check connections at sender and cluster. Drove it around and fuel is now a touch above 3/4 and coolant gauge seems to be working properly.

Would an errant limiter cause gauges to show low? I was thinking about trying a limiter in the 6v range. Testing on vehicle leads me to believe either the gauges are not seeing enough voltage to register accurately or The fuel sender wire may be creating more resistance causing fuel gauge to show low. I am going to trace the sender wire and run new wire in its place, would a larger gauge wire cause problems? Just want to rule out the wire before I go messing with another limiter.

Any procedure to test voltage limiter for output volts. For the fuel sending unit can I check resistance on the terminal end?
 
Thanks for the article. It should come in handy.

Anyway, I checked resistance at the sending unit, which was 11.4 ohms. Should be pretty close as I have driven it around enough to burn some gas. 10 should be full tank. Also checked resistance on the length of wire from sender to gauge. It was 1.4 ohms. I ran the same test on new wire I had laying around which is longer in length. It was .2 ohms.
 
Think I figured it out. After pulling trim to get to the wire I encountered a harness connector near drivers side kick panel. Pulled it apart and although it didn't look corroded I cleaned the connections with a brass brush. Put it back together and checked full length resistance = .2 ohms. Same as new wire. Hooked it up and checked with key on and it seems to be very close to where it should be, just under full tank.

And now more projects arise as I had seats and trim removed. Vinyl and backer trim need replaced:)
 
Old cars are sure fun aren't they? I know how that goes......you do one thing and it leads to another and another and so on. I'm glad you found that connector. Good luck.
 
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