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63 B series engine swap....

Black63

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Hey guys...just a few questions before I get myself jammed into a corner on this swap!

I now have a 400 from a Chrysler to drop into my 63 Dodge.
Heres the question(s)....

I have a 67 Plymouth V8 K frame and engine mounts from a 318 Poly.
Will the 400 bolt right up?
I've heard yes AND no...so I'm a bit mixed up!
I also have the 67 Trans crossmember that I can use.

I've heard that the later K frame moves the engine back a bit...but is it too far in a 63 B????
Will I need to modify the firewall etc?

I'm thinking that the 67 trans crossmember will work with the engine crossmember as its obviously designed with the mount farther back.

Also, will 78 Chrysler exhaust manifolds work as is???

Just trying to get all my ducks in a row before the big drop takes place! !!!
 
i don't think the 318 brackets will position the 400 correctly. the 67 k member will move the engine back about 1.5-2.0". the tranny will hit the tunnel and the rear cross member mount won't line up.
 
if your 63 came with a V-8 the 400 will fit on the K-frame using a set of motor mounts meant for that application.
 
i don't think the 318 brackets will position the 400 correctly. the 67 k member will move the engine back about 1.5-2.0". the tranny will hit the tunnel and the rear cross member mount won't line up.

Oh my.....that sucks.
Anyone else confirm/deny or expand on this???????

Guess I'll have to just do it like a regular engine swap and fit as I go! :(
 
if your 63 came with a V-8 the 400 will fit on the K-frame using a set of motor mounts meant for that application.

Came with a slant 6 but I'm using a V8 Poly K from the 67 Plymouth...thus the confusion!
 
Came with a slant 6 but I'm using a V8 Poly K from the 67 Plymouth...thus the confusion!

you would be better off getting a v-8 k-frame from a 62-65 b-body. using this every thing will line up. the newer k-frame will set the motor back
 
you would be better off getting a v-8 k-frame from a 62-65 b-body. using this every thing will line up. the newer k-frame will set the motor back

There are none.
The only others around are being driven in one case and raced in the other.
The crusher took anything else.

I'll go ahead and use the 67 K member. If I need to modify mounts etc to get the engine to sit properly than so be it.

I think everything with muscle that I ever owned had an engine swap anyway!
I was just hoping that THIS would be a bolt together deal.

Thinking about it...the very WORST engine swap I ever did was putting a 351w Ford into a 78 Mustang Cobra II.
You would think it would be simple...but Ford "engineering" made it a total pain in the butt.

Thankfully this 63 Dodge is a little more roomy and obviously better engineered! :headbang:
 
the tranny tunnel will need to be modified. if your using a cable tranny the one piece kickdown linkage won't fit. why don't you see if shumacher makes an engine mount kit for a slant six to big block.
 
I know many that are running the older B's using the newer K frame. You will need to use a set of mount brackets for a big block since the 318 brackets won't work on the BB.
 
I know many that are running the older B's using the newer K frame. You will need to use a set of mount brackets for a big block since the 318 brackets won't work on the BB.

This is the steel brackets that bolt to the engine, correct?
Would 440 brackets work?
A friend races a 440 powered car and has some core engine blocks that might still have the brackets!

The rubber mounts are the same between 318 and 383(400)?

Cranky....do you know of any engine pictures of cars with the later K?
I'd like to get a look at how close the firewall is to the engine etc...

I'm unfortunately gonna have to go with the later trans. The cables are gonna remain on the car, wrapped and tied up to the frame out of sight...in the HOPE that I can eventually find a sensible priced cable trans.
I'll run a floor shifter for now I guess.

I really don't want to have to open up the trans tunnel!
Hope it can be made to work ok.
 
Yup, big block brackets are the same for all big blocks except the Hemi. The rubber biscuits are the same between the small and big block. I'm trying to get a hold of a guy that has pics etc.....but I don't recall any of them saying they had to modify the tunnel.
 
Yup, big block brackets are the same for all big blocks except the Hemi. The rubber biscuits are the same between the small and big block. I'm trying to get a hold of a guy that has pics etc.....but I don't recall any of them saying they had to modify the tunnel.

Ahhh...excellent!
That gives me a really good chance to pick up some brackets locally.

Really appreciate the effort Cranky...even if you can't get the pics.
Very cool of you to try.
Thanks!
 
i knew i guy who put a 440 in a 63 with a late k-member and definitley did some beatin and banging on the tunnel.
 
You can use the later model k-member in the 62-65 cars. I do it all the time. In fact, the first thing I do is remove the original K-member and install the later model unit for several reasons:

1 I moves the engine back (the originals sit slightly forward anyway) and there is no modification to the firewall required.

2 It gives you more room to run a large radiator and fan assy if you desire.

3 It allows the use of the later model "captive" idler arm, which are far superior to the early model arms.

4 You can run later model headers of which there is a much larger selection. A lot of the early pipes went thru the frame and, if I'm gonna spend money on new TTI's, I'd opt for the later units that have a broader sales base should you need to sell them later.

5 I've yet to have to hammer a firewall in my cars using stock-type valve covers, though I understand that others may have experienced it. The key is how you rework the trans crossmember to accept the slight set back.

All of my k-member swaps were done with a Hemi, and the Wedge is much easier to fit. In the 2nd pic you can see where the pass side vc rubbed the firewall during installtion - but it did not require denting.

Also note that, if you run the big super stock pan (dual oiling), the pan will drag over the k-member during installation. My current project is getting the relief cuts to the k-member (with reinforcing) to eliminate this slight interference. Stock pans and most Milodons fit with ease.

Here's a couple pics of a '64 I recently did - with aftermarket valve covers.

If you're interested in my old '63 v-8 k-member, LMK. $150 + the ride and it's in very good/clean condition...

Southernman
 

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Imperial Services makes a conversion kit for you to use a calbe shifter with a later trans. Do a google search for them and you'll find there website.
 
You can use the later model k-member in the 62-65 cars. I do it all the time. In fact, the first thing I do is remove the original K-member and install the later model unit for several reasons:

1 I moves the engine back (the originals sit slightly forward anyway) and there is no modification to the firewall required.

2 It gives you more room to run a large radiator and fan assy if you desire.

3 It allows the use of the later model "captive" idler arm, which are far superior to the early model arms.

4 You can run later model headers of which there is a much larger selection. A lot of the early pipes went thru the frame and, if I'm gonna spend money on new TTI's, I'd opt for the later units that have a broader sales base should you need to sell them later.

5 I've yet to have to hammer a firewall in my cars using stock-type valve covers, though I understand that others may have experienced it. The key is how you rework the trans crossmember to accept the slight set back.

All of my k-member swaps were done with a Hemi, and the Wedge is much easier to fit. In the 2nd pic you can see where the pass side vc rubbed the firewall during installtion - but it did not require denting.

Also note that, if you run the big super stock pan (dual oiling), the pan will drag over the k-member during installation. My current project is getting the relief cuts to the k-member (with reinforcing) to eliminate this slight interference. Stock pans and most Milodons fit with ease.

Here's a couple pics of a '64 I recently did - with aftermarket valve covers.

If you're interested in my old '63 v-8 k-member, LMK. $150 + the ride and it's in very good/clean condition...

Southernman

Thanks man! With the info you've put up it seems I'm good to go!

Thanks for the offer on the K, but I'm gonna go with my 67 K member as I had it blasted already, its solid as a rock and already painted for installation. Doesn't have the captured idler arm but I'm OK with that.

I was wondering about the firewall as I'll be redoing the cowl area anyway so IF modifications were needed, now would be the time to do it!
Happy to know I can leave it alone.

Man...that HEMI sure looks the part in there!

Thanks again...:D

64 Belvedere, I'll check those guys out!
Appreciate the tip...

I was amazed just how LITTLE movement the cable actually makes as you select various gears.
I think the full range of movement is only around 1/2" or a bit more.
No wonder they're so touchy to get set correctly if you don't know what your doing! (like me!)

My pushbutton selector works real smooth and the cables are in great shape...so I'm hopeful that I can eventually put them back to work!
 
Glad you can use the info, and thanks for the feedback.

Just remember, the area of the trans tunnel will be the tightest. You only need about .250" anywhere between the trans and sheet metal. Cut up an old paint stirring stick to use as a 'feeler' gauge when you mock the tranny in place.

It takes a little time but, once you've located it, you can make the trans x-member mods and make it work out.

Good luck and don't hesitate to ask if you run into any issues. There are no 'major' issues in doing the swap, however.

Southernman
 
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