For future reference, since forums should be a place to spread knowledge and help others:
I found the cheapest route was to downgrade to manual brakes, for now. It turns out, new drum brake boosters seem impossible to find, or cost more than the price to rebuild my stock Midland Ross Gen1 10-screw up in the pictures. I am going to hang on to my failed booster since they are valuable, even as a core, but I will have it rebuilt in the future.
I got a new dual circuit master cylinder for $36, and got both brake lines & a prop valve (off a '60 ford truck with drums), and an adjustable brake pedal pushrod from a '65 Dodge d200, all from pick'n'pull for less than $20. I wired up the prop valve to the e-brake warning light on the dash, so if one of the brake circuits goes out- it lights up. Everything came out looking stock, and it will be easy to add the power booster back into the system in the future while retaining the dual master cyl.